Carrera 3.2 Engine Removal - Supporting the engine, am I doing it right?

[stewartjp]

Hi Everyone,

I am about to pull the engine from my 3.2 Carrera for the firs time.

My father and I have made and engine support board for our ATV jack that is described 2/3rds of the way down in this other forum discussion.

HP Fuel Line + "How High" - Rennlist Discussion Forums

The only question I have is now that we have made it, the load is mainly going to be taken by the crankcase down the side of the where it flanges together.

I looks good to me I just want to make sure this sounds reasonable to people and that the general consensus is that I am not at risk of breaking my crankcase.

Many Thanks!

Stewart

[DRACO A5OG]

Hey Brother Stewart,

It is hard to tell not being under the car, but your design is not bad.

I use a motorcycle jack and a piece of wood 1x12x24 inches. Basically, I place it as forward as possible to balance both engine and gear box.

If you are doing this with the back end up, I recommend highly that you remove the rear bumper so the top end of the engine, mainly the AFM will clear the car as you remove it.

You are lucky you have a second pair of eyes. I do this by myself, just go slow and steady.

Take caution on the input shaft that it does not press against the chassis' tunnel lip, it will barely pass without touching. Once you clear this section, lower the engine and gear box so it will be more stable to move out of the car.

From your brother up yonder

Jim

[Jack Stands]

Remember the transmission ground strap! I know of more than one engine drop that was interrupted by this little oversight.

Just take your time and keep checking clearances, but it should go smoothly.

[Tippy]

There is no risk of damaging the case supporting it by the parting line, hell, people jack their whole back end of their car up by this point.

[sugarwood]

Dumb question. The lowest part of the engine seems to be the heat exchangers. I assume they can not support the entire engine. Is that why you need the wedge shaped support, so they engine case seam holds the weight?

[DRACO A5OG]

Yes, on our 3.2's at least, the lowest point is the seam of the engine halves, then the HE's

The HE's hold the engine fine. Just have to keep an eye on the gear box end as you move the set around. My piece of wood, actually indents at the halves.

I will then move the set to cinder blocks laid side ways and a 3rd block with a small piece of 2x4 to support the gear box at the cross member mount.

[stewartjp]

Thanks Everyone.

My blocks won't support on the slit line but they will support just along the edges of it on the main case so that sounds fine. I will also have heat exchanger supports and one under the clutch arm at the front.

Hey Brother Jim,

I am lucky enough that my Dad has a lift so I will be able to lift the car off the motor once it is supported in the ATV Jack.

PS the magazines aren't out yet, but I will get you copies when they are!

Cheers

Stewart

[DRACO A5OG]

A Lift?

Awesome, then this will be a snap. You won't have to deal with the awkward angle when the back is raised.

Basically, disconnect, slide out and either raise the chassis or lower your engine.

Cheers!

Jim

[JJ 911SC]

Drop mine a few times using rusnak design using an ATV jack with no problem.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

A Lift?

Awesome, then this will be a snap. You won't have to deal with the awkward angle when the back is raised...

Unfortunately even with a scissors lift you have to deal with the angle to clear the shift rod out of the tunnel.

[stewartjp]

Thanks Guys,

Jim, I mean a car hoist.

[DRACO A5OG]

Hoist, Lift, same thing

[Dr DIY]

Dropped my engine a couple of times using an ATV lift. Cut some plywood which was tied onto the lift for wider support and blocked the engine up using using 2" foam. See the step by step job on youtube here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNdMp_W-cmY . I typically work alone and this setup makes the job easy.

[911tracker85]

pulled my engine for full rebuild.

dont have a pic, but saw someone cut a small section out under where the trans shifter shaft extends into the body. and then fabricate tabs to bolt it back in place.

I plan to do this before getting the shell painted. it removes the challenge of tilting the tranny end up to get the shaft into the body.

not sure I am explaining this right.

good luck.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by 911tracker85

pulled my engine for full rebuild.

dont have a pic, but saw someone cut a small section out under where the trans shifter shaft extends into the body. and then fabricate tabs to bolt it back in place.
I plan to do this before getting the shell painted. it removes the challenge of tilting the tranny end up to get the shaft into the body.

not sure I am explaining this right.

good luck.

Its here somewhere.

I drop my engine 3 times and cursed that angle every time. Its even worse with a cab as the damper on the engine bar jam on the back of the trunk...

[stewartjp]

It's out safe and sound Thanks Guys!

The ATV lift with the plywood as per the above post bolted on it work perfectly.



Appreciate all your help with this.

Cheers

Stewart

[don gilbert]

its nice to have a big lift and big scissor jack, but if you dont, the easiest way and safest way to remove you engine is 1. jack up car real high, remove axles, from trans, g.staps and what nots then loosen trans mount bolts. 2.Lower car to floor,support engine with a simple floor jack ( I find it easier to wiggle the engine with just a small jack and block of wood) get everything on top ready, then remove all four mount bolts, 3. Then raise the body up off the engine with a 1"x4" a few feet long under the rear body seam with a bigger floor jack. No need to balance the engine and trans 3 ft of the ground. Been pulling bug motors like this since I around 14. Works good on 911 to.