Rear Bearing Replacement - Houston

[Kool-aid-82]

Big job in store for this weekend.
Anyone in Houston area have one of these laying around collecting dust?

To Borrow/Buy, or I will make one up...

[tharbert]

It's easy enough to kludge together a puller from PVC pipe, threaded rod, nuts and washers. That's what I did. I'd send you mine but the postage would be more than the thing's worth.

[Kool-aid-82]

Tharbert, Thanks for the link I was thinking of building something similar but thought I would ask first. Knowing others have blazed the trail helps. Plus it gives a part list.
Amazing what can be found on this forum... cool part is the knowledge will live a long time.


Thanks,

[jason2guy]

use 3/4 threaded rod and hardened washers if you can find them. for the cup go to the electrical section and get a coupler of the right dimension

[charwood77]

I just did mine a couple weeks back. i sprayed penetrating oil on it then I used heat and a slide hammer with a wheel flange attached to pull hub out. (free rental : this has reminded me to return it to autozone) Then I used a large, 32 or 33MM impact socket at the back and hammer to tap the bearing out. Worked well on one but on the other the bearing came apart when pulling the hub out leaving me with the outer race fused to the trailing arm. after tapping at it with a hammer and drift I realized that I needed to get even distribution of force on it... I then took a wheel stud (which i had since i was swapping to turbo length) I threaded an open nut on it and inserted it vertically inside the race and un-threaded or loosed the nut until the nut and bolt became tall enough to wedge itself inside the race, then i used a hammer to tap on the middle of the bolt/nut (from the back) and it allowed the race to come out.

freeze the new bearings, use bearing grease inside trailing arm and slide in, mine required some very light tapping all around, around and around and around (on outer race only) to get it in.

take your time, its not that bad.

[john walker's workshop]

That big C shaped thing won't fit 911 rear hubs. The all-thread piece and related discs is what you use. Use a big slide hammer and steel lug nuts to remove the flange.

[Gene Smith]

Cakewalk with Al trailing arms- STEEL? You'll want to BLAST!

[78-911SC]

I kinda went for the heavy duty. Worked great without bending anywhere. Sorry for the orientation.

[47silver]

i bought this kit a few years ago and have used it on porsches and other cars it is nicely made and does the job,, the price has gone up since i purchased it but for 120 bucks it saves a lot of aggravation..

[hcoles]

There is a tendency to take the sheet metal off and then install the new bearing and hub/etc. Maybe depending on the car - if you do this it will cost you an additional bearing because you will need to pull the new bearing to get the sheet metal on. I'd go out and make a note and tie wrap it on or put the sheet metal on before you forget.

^ nice puller kit - I'll look at HF next time I'm there.

As others have mentioned you can make a workable press using OSH plumbing parts and e.g. 5/8" all thread. I heated the arm and froze the bearings - they slip right in and then tap in the rest of the way on the outer race using the old race or similar object.

[Discseven]

Billy... It's possible to remove and install the rears with a punch and hammer. Steel punch to take out. Brass to install. By the time you make a tool you can have the bearings replaced. Of course one has to be careful doing it this way---one slip and a race can be ruined.

[patz]

Freeze the new ones for ez installation.