Point of reference for cost wanted...

[donagain1]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

About $6K around here for a valve grind, lower studs and reseal top end.

Thank you!

[donagain1]

Originally Posted by 422flat6

I had a local shop R&R my engine for oil leaks. The engine R&R cost was about $800. This didn't include parts and labor to fix the issues.

Thank you, this is helpful.

[911obgyn]

I did the triangle of death while I had the intake off to replace intake gaskets on my 3.2 there was a bunch of rubber bits to replace while i was in there. it was pretty easy to get at everything when the intake was off. I also replaced the oil cooler seals then without dropping the motor. The car was on ramps in the garage for a week. I took my time and cleaned everything I could get to. The only special tools i had to get were wobbly end metric sockets, 10, 12, and 13mm. Did a valve adjustment while I had sheet metal near valve covers off and now I always remove that sheet metal to adjust valves, makes it so much easier.

[donagain1]

Thank you all for your input, and even though it may seem like I poo-poo'd some of the expertise and views provided, all your contributions and the experience that they reflect were very much appreciated.
Don

[beasty]

18k?? That's it?? Umm sign me up. With the way the market is now 18k is half the going rate, I'll take it!

All jokes aside, the God of Porsche John Walker has spoken, 6k is well worth it in my opinion. 6k will last you another 150-200k miles, and if there are no plans for selling in your near future, I'd say get it done and drive the hell out of it!

[donagain1]

Originally Posted by 911obgyn

I did the triangle of death while I had the intake off to replace intake gaskets on my 3.2 there was a bunch of rubber bits to replace while i was in there. it was pretty easy to get at everything when the intake was off. I also replaced the oil cooler seals then without dropping the motor. The car was on ramps in the garage for a week. I took my time and cleaned everything I could get to. The only special tools i had to get were wobbly end metric sockets, 10, 12, and 13mm. Did a valve adjustment while I had sheet metal near valve covers off and now I always remove that sheet metal to adjust valves, makes it so much easier.

Thanks, this is very useful. With oil on pretty much everything around the forward underside, from all the housings where it was blown around, and drips coming from places other than the source, it's difficult to know where to begin until it's cleaned. That said, even cleaning it is a very difficult thing to do with the car on as high as 18" jackstands. What I wanted to avoid was assuming it was triangle of death stuff, and end up removing things which don't need removing in order to get to it, and thereby inviting more work (and risk) than necessary. I guess I want it all, a car that don't leak, not spending too much money to get it that way, and to enjoy my available time on the golf course, where I belong. I tell ya, life's tough for a cheapskate!

[donagain1]

Originally Posted by beasty

18k?? That's it?? Umm sign me up. With the way the market is now 18k is half the going rate, I'll take it!

All jokes aside, the God of Porsche John Walker has spoken, 6k is well worth it in my opinion. 6k will last you another 150-200k miles, and if there are no plans for selling in your near future, I'd say get it done and drive the hell out of it!

As regards to the first part of your post, thanks for the insight... if the going rate is now $36K, my price just went to $30K, as is. That'd be one God of Porsche estimate less than the going rate, a bargain! (LOL!!!) Seriously, thanks for the input.

[ClickClickBoom]

Hey,
My car had the standard triangle of death('84 Carerra) leaks. I replaced the gaskets for triangle, breather hose and valve cover. Took me about 3 hours, no engine drop, mostly putzing around, very average hand tools required. The bottom of my motor is now dryer than Death Valley in the heat of summer. All the triangle stuff is very reasonable access, mirror and great lighting helps tons. When replacing fasteners remember to use a torque wrench.

[Trackrash]

FWIW. I doubt it is the crank/flywheel seal. I would imagine it was replaced when the clutch was done. Those seals will last a long time.

I would be way more concerned about broken head studs, and rubber fuel lines.

[911 Rod]

Grab a case or 2 of brake clean and go nuts.

[sugarwood]

Can someone post some links on how to address triangle of death with the engine in the car?
I'd like to read about this. Is this in the Bentley?

[donagain1]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

Hey,
My car had the standard triangle of death('84 Carerra) leaks. I replaced the gaskets for triangle, breather hose and valve cover. Took me about 3 hours, no engine drop, mostly putzing around, very average hand tools required. The bottom of my motor is now dryer than Death Valley in the heat of summer. All the triangle stuff is very reasonable access, mirror and great lighting helps tons. When replacing fasteners remember to use a torque wrench.

Your account makes it sound promising, but I'm going to need an accurate reeding from the PITA-ometer's 1-10 scale as to what constitutes "reasonable access" (with the fan belt being a 1). Considering I'm a 67 year old, 250+lb man, whose back rebels against being bent over for too long, gut requires the car jacked pretty high, and eyes that need to be just the exact distance from something in order to focus, I can tell you this for certain (referencing the photo below)... replacing the sound pad in back of the engine was at about the limit of my awkward location capabilities. What would need to be removed in order to gain access to the "triangle"?

[pmax]

Originally Posted by 422flat6

I had a local shop R&R my engine for oil leaks. The engine R&R cost was about $800. This didn't include parts and labor to fix the issues.

Assuming $100/hr, what kind of Porsche mechanic takes 8 hrs to R&R an engine ?

[donagain1]

Originally Posted by Trackrash

FWIW. I doubt it is the crank/flywheel seal. I would imagine it was replaced when the clutch was done. Those seals will last a long time.

I would be way more concerned about broken head studs, and rubber fuel lines.

Ya know, that's pretty much my thinking as well. Isn't the bell housing integral with the transmission, and pretty effectively sealed when installed? How would oil drip out? Also, if it was that rear main seal leaking, why isn't there any clutch slippage/chatter like there was in every other car that I've owned?

[ClickClickBoom]

I removed my AFM and the fan duct. I also replaced the intake gaskets prior to the triangle attack. I took my time and worked a little, got up stretched and enjoyed the process. Work at a comfortable pace and don't over do it, it will be there tomorrow.

[gshiwota]

Originally Posted by donagain1

Your account makes it sound promising, but I'm going to need an accurate reeding from the PITA-ometer's 1-10 scale as to what constitutes "reasonable access" (with the fan belt being a 1). Considering I'm a 67 year old, 250+lb man, whose back rebels against being bent over for too long, gut requires the car jacked pretty high, and eyes that need to be just the exact distance from something in order to focus, I can tell you this for certain (referencing the photo below)... replacing the sound pad in back of the engine was at about the limit of my awkward location capabilities. What would need to be removed in order to gain access to the "triangle"?

I'll play... I'm not 67 but I've got a bad back and not too much patience. I replaced my triangle on my '88 with the engine in, intake on and in just a couple of hours. On your scale, I'd put it slightly higher in PITA than the engine sound pad swap - maybe .5 points higher on the 1-10 scale. However on the "bang for the buck" scale, it's got to rate near 10.

All I had to remove was my airbox and the MAF to access the triangle area. These parts come off easy and I think it's only a couple of bolts and clamps. I also did the semi-partial engine drop to give more room (I left the AC compressor in place and only dropped the motor a few inches). You'll need a flashlight or two as well a mirror and magnetic pickup tool in case you drop a fastener (you WILL drop a fastener as the area is a bit tight). My car had a leaky thermostat seal and oil breather hose which was obvious once I could get my mirror and flashlight into the area. Once done, no more leaks or smokey heat exchangers!

There are plenty of threads on the partial engine drop and triangle of death. I say go for it as if you can do the sound pad, you can do this fix.

[jwill911]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

About $6K around here for a valve grind, lower studs and reseal top end.

John, My `87 Carrera has ~99K miles on it and has needed valve guides for a while, and maybe some minor oil leak help. To have the work done by someone with your reputation I'd take the drive to Seattle. I bought the car from a guy up there, still have your license plate frame on the front plate although it's in the trunk.



This has been an interesting and helpful thread to follow.

[RSTarga]

Wash it down to find the leaks and then make a decision. It might be quicker and less frustrating, to drop the engine if the leaks are under all that intake crap.
It is amazing how a small leak can blow around and look like a major problem.

[impactbumper]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

About $6K around here for a valve grind, lower studs and reseal top end.

not bad at all, sure done right job too.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

About $6K around here for a valve grind, lower studs and reseal top end.

Miami is calling you. I'll help you move.