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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 86
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Removing engine to transmission barrel nut
Still in the process of removing the engine. Does anyone have any tips for getting to the barrel nut above the starter that hold the transmission and the engine together? It's in such a hard to reach place I can barely get my hand up there let alone an allen key. How should I go about this?
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Registered
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Silly question, but why bother? Drop the engine/transmission as a unit and disassemble when they're on the ground.
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 86
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Fair question, somewhat embarrassing answer. The CV joint bolts were really really stuck on the car and I stripped two of them. I figured it would be easier to leave the transmission in than wrestle with removing the stripped bolts.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,415
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I leave the trans in. Disconnect the shift coupler from the trans and when everything is disconnected and you're ready to remove the engine, lower it until the top of the alternator housing just clears the rear cross-member and then reach over the top of the engine and remove the two upper nuts. Works good for slave cylinder cars too., but the engine and trans needs to come out together on those. Post the year of your car in your signature for best results.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 Last edited by john walker's workshop; 06-22-2016 at 07:48 PM.. |
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Still here
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Here's my thread on removing the transmission. Transmission balance point |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Place your car on jack stands, under the Torsion Bar TUBE just inside of the Chassis or on the end caps but many do not like doing this as it puts allot of stress on those caps and it could slip off
![]() I have done both ways and never had an issue. Now, lower the floor jack but leave in place for safety. Get under the car and "BEAR HUG" the gear box and reach in from the driver side with the Allen/ratchet. Bingo, easy peasee ![]()
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Newquay, Cornwall, UK
Posts: 382
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For the cv joint bolts that you have a problem. Hammer in a bigger size splined bit (even a torx bit may work). Or use vice grips/mole grips. Some cold release spray may help. Ive always been able to get those out, and thas having undone alot of drveshafts. If your stuck, you could probally move to the other end of the driveshaft and disconnect it there.
For that barrel nut, on the floor you will have plenty of access. And you can always use vice grips if you have too i prefer engine and box out together, as It will be easier to mate the trans/engine on the floor, so you can watch the throwout bearing meet the fork,do work above the trans (fuel lines, replace brake lines, etc) Last edited by strictly; 06-22-2016 at 11:43 PM.. |
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Registered
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Quote:
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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Just for future reference, the CV bolts get full of grease and dirt over time. When removing the CV bolts give them a shot of brake cleaner and then insert the Allen socket with an extension. Give the end of the extension a couple of solid whacks with a bfh, then insert your ratchet into the end of the extension while holding it tightly in place. Never had a problem this way.
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"Too much is just enough." |
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