Been searching around. Is there a simple front point to jack the car up?

[deputydog95]

Been searching and searching. Still not clear. Need to get a front wheel off and I don't have the side jack pad.

Is there an easy place to jack the front up without using 2x4 etc?

Saw this but still not totally clear. Recently had a shop dent my floor and crush and oil line so I'm particularly paranoid now.



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[puddy]

I typically use the passenger side front torsion bar cover, either is fine, which is the front two points shown above "A". I just put the jack under one cover and jack it up. Just make sure your car is sitting safely on the pump jack before reaching under to put jack stands under the front control arms.

In the past I did use the very centre point of the body between the 2 torsion bar covers but I heard that a big no no since these cars tend to rot out there. Mine is very solid and never had any troubles though. You could also put a something solid across under the two torsion bar covers and jack from the centre evenly distributing the weight between the two covers.

[deputydog95]

So is that where the O is? I don't have a lot of familiarity with this car yet.



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[twistoffat]

Puddy is referring to the point in this picture. I personally prefer the ones marked C in your diagram but both are good. Better than the side jack.

[Jesse16]

I think the short answer is no if you want to lift both front wheels and not the back. I have occasionally wanted to do this and made a "dedicated" piece of wood to do it. This thing spans and cradles both front torsion bar covers. Car is lowered so I have to drive the front wheels onto a couple of 1.5" thk pieces of wood to get my jack and wood beam in place, then it works fine. The safety problem is of course you don't want to get your body under a jacked only car and you have to jack it very high to fit most jack stands under the next good support point so be careful. I have some heavy blocks of wood around for shorter jacking situations.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by twistoffat

+1

[LUFTKUL]

Instead of using a piece of wood like in the picture, I dipped the cradle of the jack stand several times in Plasti Dip. I did several thick coats and now I don't need a rag or wood to avoid marring the paint on the front control arms. Probably a better "fit". Works well for rear torsion bars also.

[DRACO A5OG]

Hmmm, Good Idea :-) ^^^

[T77911S]

I put a long piece of wood across the body just in front of the gas tank. that distributes the weight across the body. never had any issues.
I also just got one of those big 2ton low profile jacks form harbor fright. the thing is awesome. it raises the car super hi and I don't have to "pre lift" the car just to get a jack under it.

I don't like the wood on that jackstand in the pic above. I would rather have the round part of the torsion bar sit down in that groove of the stand. look like the car could easily slide if bumped.
wood can be slippery compared to metal against metal.

[jlex]

I use two jack pads inserted in both ports and two floor jacks to get the car into the air. Those jack ports are a pivot point so the car acts like a teeter-totter when raised. It's then easy to place jack stands under front, rear or both. Best way I've found...

[sugarwood]

Just use the jack point behind the front wheel to raise the car,
and put a jackstand like in the red photo above.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Jesse16

I think the short answer is no if you want to lift both front wheels and not the back. I have occasionally wanted to do this and made a "dedicated" piece of wood to do it. This thing spans and cradles both front torsion bar covers. Car is lowered so I have to drive the front wheels onto a couple of 1.5" thk pieces of wood to get my jack and wood beam in place, then it works fine. The safety problem is of course you don't want to get your body under a jacked only car and you have to jack it very high to fit most jack stands under the next good support point so be careful. I have some heavy blocks of wood around for shorter jacking situations.

Don't you mean yes? It can be done with your "special tool".

Coincidentally, I have one of those too. :-) After lifting one side, I use a doubled 2x3 (screwed together on edge) so each end is under each front torsion bar mount. Use a jack stand on one end to keep the special tool in position.

Once the wood is in place, position a floor jack in the middle of the special tool, then raise high enough to contact both torsion bar covers. Remove the jack stand. Lower the previously raised side until the front is level. Raise the car to the desired height with the floor jack.

.... or roll the car on a makeshift ramp to raise the front to a convenient height, then roll the special tool and centered floor jack into position.

After raising to the desired height, place a jack stand under the special tool close to or directly under each front torsion bar mount. Leave the floor jack in place for extra support insurance. Rock the car to confirm it's safely secured. To lower, repeat the above in reverse sequence.

Nice to do:
Contour the ends of the doubled 2x3 to fit the shape of the torsion bar mounts. Mark the middle clearly to help center the floor jack. Mark the special tool clearly so it isn't mistaken for firewood.

Sherwood

[Dooodahman]

Put a hockey puck on the spot marked "C", just inside of the oil lines and seam, and jack away.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Dooodahman

Put a hockey puck on the spot marked "C", just inside of the oil lines and seam, and jack away.

Uh, how does that raise the car evenly, side-to-side?

[Dooodahman]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

Uh, how does that raise the car evenly, side-to-side?

I thought he only wanted to quickly change one wheel?

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Dooodahman

I thought he only wanted to quickly change one wheel?

You're right. I need to pay attention. Thanks.

Maybe the OP didn't know about the factory jack point.

[Walt Fricke]

On my car there is no way to get a jack under either of the front end torsion bar caps - it is lowered, has an aftermarket spoiler, and brake cooling air ducting from the spoiler which prevent getting an ordinary aluminum jack in there.

The solution is to run a front tire up on a piece of 2x6 or the like. Then put the jack in and jack it up until both front tires are in the air and the one on the board is off of it. If all you are doing is swapping front tires side to side, or replacing one and moving the other to the other side, or just replacing both front tires, but not any rears, this works great and you don't need jack stands. Same if replacing just front brake pads.

To work under the car, jack a bit higher, put the jack stand under the free torsion end cap, put another one back on the torsion tube as close as you can get to the jack, remove the board, and lower and remove the jack - or place the stand and keep it up on the jack.

[deputydog95]

Originally Posted by Dooodahman

I thought he only wanted to quickly change one wheel?

You are correct sir. Floor jack under spot C worked like a champ!

Thanks for all the great responses.

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[CCM911]

I have been using the bar in front of the AC condensor for the past 15 years with no ill effects. Just make sure the bar drops into the notches on your jack saddle and you ar good to go.

[cmcfaul]

I always jack from the rear rear torsion bar cover bolt. both wheels (front and back) come off the ground about the same time.

Chris

73 E