Stripped allen bolt head (not threads)

[steely]

I stripped the interior of the 5mm Allen bolt used on the steering bushing clamp in the smugglers box.

I was wondering if I could get a recommendation for a good easy-out or grabit bit like quality product that really works (I'm a little skeptical). I read another post and tried using my dremel to notch it for a screw driver but that didn't go well. It's a little hard to get a good angle and the cut deep enough w/o hitting the clamp edge, and I've got no welding equipment.

I also saw Wil Ferch's admonishment to use good quality clean allens - looks like I'm guilty. I am not touching the second one until I get a new tool.

Thanks very much.

[sc_rufctr]

You could drill out the head with a drill the same diameter or larger than the shaft of the bolt.
AT some point the Allen head would separate from the shank and take it from there.

You'd be able to grab the remain shaft with Moll grips or something similar.

OR... "Slot" the head with a Dremel tool then use a large flat blade screw driver to undo it. I don't think this will work but it's worth a try ... try this before drilling it out.

[JP911]

Craftsman "bolt-outs" work well on stripped allen heads. There's enough room to get them on the axle bolts, so hopefully they'll work for the steering clamp. Good luck!

[steely]

Thanks Peter, yeah, I tried the dremel thing - it was a no-go. Drilling off the head has crossed my mind. I'll try JP911's suggestion while there is still some meat, and failing that I will take the be-yotch out of there. I should check the price of the bracket, see if that can be sacrificed economically.

Thanks for the support guys!!

On edit: doh! - 63 bucks for the bracket- I'm not letting that happen.

[jamesjedi]

They are fairly easy yo remove if you get the proper bits that are designed to do this, such as the craftsman stripped screw remover, or it may be called "Bolt Out".

If the bolt you are referring to is what is called a "cheese head", they often strip, and having something to take them out is of great value.

[911pcars]

Drilling the head works as long as the threads aren't locked in place with sealant (e.g. red, blue or green), in which case you'll need to apply enough heat and/or leverage to remove it.

Once upon a time, I was stuck w/o the proper torque aid to remove the flywheel bolts. I used a 1/2" dr. drill motor and large drill bit to remove each bolt head. Luckily, all it took was finger strength to rotate the remaining threaded shaft after the head was excised.

Sherwood

[steely]

jamesjedi - "cheesehead" - now there is a term I never heard in reference to these. I will try the bolts outs - JP911 suggested them and I looked online to chk them out - I hope there is enough bolt height to make a difference.

Sherwood - unfortunately, these do have remnants of red sealant on them - heat will be a challenge due to their proximity to the rubber bushing - the parts list is getting longer - what else is new :-))

This was a concern of mine - the sealant - since if I cut the heads off, I getting torque on the remaining threads/shank may be fun if they are sealed.

I suppose if the bolt outs don't work, I remove the head, clamp and bushing, and then concentrate on the problem bolt.

(I was stuck home in the snow today - really was hoping to have some fun and make progress on the suspension - got my wish :-)

Thanks

[PNine64]

I had a problem with the allen bolts on my brake calipers. I ended up drilling through the side of the head and put a nail set through it and leveraged it off that way (after many tools purchases and hours of frustration). The heat of the drill should also soften any sealant too (I would think). You might be able to drill through it, run a nail through the head and use vise grips to get a good grip if the head is too small for the nail set?? Good luck!!

[wcc]

First thing I would do is spray lube on it (wd40, pb, krill, etc) for a couple days. Can you get vice grips on the outer part? Maybe you can tap in a torx head or something else that would grip it. Did you use a hammer impact tool? That might help as well..

[Flat6pac]

When the allen strips out I find that the 12 point set,if I drove it in with a hammer will grab. The steering bolts are exceptional for tight.
Bruce

[Iowa911]

I've had very good luck in the past inserting a cheap old allen wrench ( I have a big bag of them) and tack welding it into the head of the stripped out bolt. Have done this on several occasions and it has never failed. It is best to do it before you completely destroy the head of the bolt. I also spray a little PB blaster on it and Ice it down just before trying to back it out.

[Iowa911]

Sorry, I just re-read your post. No welder. Sorry, but maybe someone else can use my suggestion.
Good luck.

[steely]

Travis - good point and tip about the hole and the heat.
Bill - will PB it tonight - no impact tool tho' in my box.
Bruce - a 12pt socket on the outside?

Thanks for the tips, I will try tomorrow evening after sears after work - very optimistic for success by weekend. I do appreciate it.

[911pcars]

"...unfortunately, these do have remnants of red sealant on them - heat will be a challenge due to their proximity to the rubber bushing..."

You mean the oil seal. That can be replaced. Besides, you're only going to quickly bring the bolt head up to a nice cherry red then strike it to break the seal. I would plan to replace the seal just to be sure. If you want to chance it, strategically place wet cloths around the crank end to act as a heat sink so the seal doesn't overheat. However, it'd be a shame to reinstall the drivetrain and then have a leaking seal allow lube to soak the clutch facing. Still, if it's your labor, it's sort of free. You feeling lucky?

There are few solutions to remove a threaded fastener that's fixed in place by red thread sealer other than a massive amount of torque and/or heat. Without the heat, you need a firm anchor to the fastener in order to apply the torque. Sorry. A lever inserted through a drilled opening through the side of the bolt head better be pretty substantial in size as well as rigidity and length to apply enough torque to overcome the sealer stiction.

Sherwood

My apologies. You're on the other end of the car. I was brain-fixed on the flywheel.

[fanaudical]

I sometimes have luck with smaller cam-style stud pullers. Of course, you need enough room to swing the stud-puller around...

[fastfredracing]

As listed above, Try pounding in the next larger size 12 pt. , or torx bit. That would be the first thing I do, and then move on to the bigger guns ( bolt extractor, drill, etc..)

[Wil Ferch]

fastfredracing:
I thjnk the OP is asking whether a 12 point "socket" that fits tightly around the perimeter of the cheesehead...OR....a 12 point bit to force itself inside the damaged recessed hex? I think both you and flatpac6 are recommending the latter.....right?

[175K911]

Originally Posted by fastfredracing

As listed above, Try pounding in the next larger size 12 pt. , or torx bit. That would be the first thing I do, and then move on to the bigger guns ( bolt extractor, drill, etc..)

That's what usually works for me. Use a 12 point torx bit, something that's a bit bigger than the inside of the allen, then hammer it into place inside the head. Kind of the same thing as an easy out but generally a lot cheaper. But you can't use a cheap torx bit, they'll just twist and break off in the allen head making things worse.

[Nathans_Dad]

I had the exact same issue when removing my shifter about three months ago.

My suggestions (in order) are:

1). Hammer in the next larger size and see if that will grab.
2). Use Bolt Out to try and break it free while you still have a usable head.
3). Dremel a slot in the top and try a screwdriver or similar.
4). Grind the whole head off with a dremel and then grab the threads with some vice grips after removing the box.

Unfortunately I went straight for #3 when I did it because I was a rookie and didn't have a bolt out set (I do now). I ended up dremeling the head off.

[tharbert]

Someone mentioned a hand impact driver... They are wonderful if you have the room. I had trouble with the allen bolts holding my seats down. Several rounded out almost immediately as I was trying to remove them. I slotted the heads and used my hand impact driver to nudge them. I removed 4 bad ones in the span of about 15 minutes. It's maybe not so much the force as the shock that gets the bolt moving.

You don't know anyone that has a MIG? Most DIYers like me are always looking for a reason to break out the welder. It's kind of like chain saws. --Insert Tim the Tool Man grunting here--