Clutch needed,what else to do

[GMR911]

I have a 77 911 with a 78 row 3,0l engine. Going to need a clutch soon. Engine will have about 140,000 when clutch is done. Engine runs great with good oil pressure. 60lbs at 4k , 50lbs at 3k when engine is hot. Has some oil leaks which I intend to correct. When I bought the engine at 90kmiles the cylinder compression tested at 165, 160,160,160,160,155. What else should I being looking to do? Thanks Jerry

[Bob Kontak]

Throw out bearing fork replacement.

Will cost $100. Do this.

Rear main seal. Bell housing bushings.

[DRACO A5OG]

...and the oring that goes around the TOB guide tube as well.

Make sure you get a complete clutch kit with new Pressure Plate. If you are DIY, make sure you take careful note of the orientation of the TOB on the Pressure Plate before you disassemble it.

You will need a clutch alignment jig/tool and use Hi-Temp Grease, not assembly grease, it will just melt right off.

[GMR911]

Should I look at doing a valve job at this mileage while the motor is out?

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by GMR911

Should I look at doing a valve job at this mileage while the motor is out?

That is your choice. Grady Clay, RIP, would say don't do a damned thing till you need to.

However, if you are paying $1,500 to R&R an engine, cause you can't, it becomes more attractive.

I mean, I know you can, with friends and time, but if this ain't your thing, get the heads done. Send them out, new guides, replace tired valves with skinny stems, etc.

Chains and ramps are a no brainer.

Heads should be fly cut several thousandths to offer a nice face for the seal. Do the math as you have 9.8 to one right now with a ROW engine. Do you want 10 to one?

[Dave Kost]

I would do the triangle of death gaskets.

Also, all of the CIS gaskets and O rings while the engine is on the ground. Maybe, the rubber vacuum and fuel hoses too.

[GMR911]

Thanks for all the responses. my plan was to take out the motor and replace the clutch which is needed. I'm leaning for the Sachs Power clutch kit. I have always used the standard Sachs clutch kit when done before. My car has 215,000 miles on it. This I think is my 3rd clutch job over 36 years I've owned it. I transplanted the 3.0L row motor in it at 165K and at that time the clutch had about 20 k on it. Any thoughts on which clutch to use. Any thought on Spec clutches? I always got good service out of the standard Sachs clutch but heard they have changed it. Then I plan to replace any seals, gaskets I can, have the injectors cleaned, service the axles, repaint the engine shroud(badly needed). The motor runs great. I bought the motor from Rarly8 when he did his turbo conversion. The motor has approx 140k on the clock. Because of the miles I am thinking, at least, to do a valve job, rebuild rockers while out. Maybe upgrading the cams to 20/21 or 964 cams(thoughts on those). Already has SSI's. Not sure about doing anything with P&C's(alusil). Again the motor runs greatttt as is with good oil pressure.. Thanks for any feedback, Jerry

[GMR911]

bump

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

The Sachs Power Clutch kit is a good one: 1977 Porsche 911 - Clutch Kit. May also want to look into a clutch helper spring and some other great items listed in our clutch tech article at the top here: Porsche 911 Clutch Replacement | Pelican Parts Tech Article. That list should help you with everything that may be needed for that job at least. Good luck!

[Bob Kontak]

Luccia's 2nd link mentions a replacement throw out fork.

Don't roll the dice on this.

[GMR911]

Any thoughts on doing the heads, cams. Also, whats everyones opinion on replacing the head studs. Mine still seem to be fine, not broken. Just leave them alone? Slippery slope? Thanks Jerry