how do I stop this leak at the tensioner?

[franklinstower]

This is not from the crush washer at the banjo but at the base.



Any ideas?

Thanks,
Paul

[Charles Freeborn]

I have EXACTLY the same leak. Looking forward to an explanation.

[franklinstower]

I think i found the culprit -


O-Ring that fits on the tensioner should seal the cover.

Look right?

[DRACO A5OG]

Ding Ding Ding, Winner Winner Chicken Dinner!

That O-ring shrinks over time and heat cycles. you will need new crush rings for the banjo bolt and fitting besides the new tensioner cover gasket.

[franklinstower]

I can't believe I missed that when I just had my engine out and put on new chain cover gaskets....remove tin, easily accessible? Muffler drop maybe?

[theiceman]

yeah take the tin off , may need new cover gasket once you remove it.

[DRACO A5OG]

Get as much off the back for easy access, maybe bumper, muffler. I know PITA but you do not want to struggle doing this, just save yourself from cursing through out the process. Note if you remove muffler, you will need a new muffler gasket. May want to consider partial drop ( 4-6 inches only) without disconnecting anything except coupler

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by franklinstower

Any ideas?

Paul... looking at your pic I'm wondering what sort of crush washers are installed. There's almost a hint of a copper edge. I'm not familiar with '78... but am with '79. This pic shows new crushes installed. Not asserting this is right but am questioning the different appearance between these banjos.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Karl, crush washers are typically made of either copper or aluminum and both work. In my experience, they are 100% interchangeable except in situations where very high heat is concerned (like aircraft spark plugs), then copper has to be used.

[NICE 69 S]

Porsche used copper and aluminum crush washers. The bottom pic looks like aluminum. Can anyone explain why the two different materials and which should be used where? Seems to me they used aluminum in places where they are supposed to be permanently bolted together, and copper in places where they could be removed and reused, like an oil pan bolt.
Bob B
Wow, Rawknees 'Turbo beat me by three minutes.

[hcoles]

When I did the top end the fit of the O rings for that position, that came in the gasket kit, seemed like there wasn't much interference. After some measurements I got a slightly different size with a bit more "squish" in Viton - no drip issues. I don't remember the size. Could be the original ones would have worked - I don't know, I didn't want to take a chance.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

Karl, crush washers are typically made of either copper or aluminum and both work. In my experience, they are 100% interchangeable except in situations where very high heat is concerned (like aircraft spark plugs), then copper has to be used.

Am school'd! TY Rono ~~~

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Originally Posted by Discseven

Am school'd! TY Rono ~~~

Karl, I enjoy being your Daddy whenever possible!

[Charles Freeborn]

Mystery solved for me too. Hoping to do a full drop this winter to freshen up the clutch, so that's on the list too.
Thanks all.

[Nine9six]

Not questionng anyones expertise here, but aren't the crush washers supposed to seal the banjo fitting with no leak without the added benefit of the O-ring?

p.s. I'd use alum crush washers in this location. I've typically found alum crush washers a little softer, more malable, and quicker to seal than the coppers.

[DeRRis]

The crush washers seals the banjo. The O-ring seals the casing from the tensioner.

[Nine9six]

Originally Posted by DeRRis

The crush washers seals the banjo. The O-ring seals the casing from the tensioner.

Ahh, thanks for the clarification, Dennis!

[Vino]

Can we assume the seals that are on the tensioner can be purchased separately?
Is there a specific seal that works better in terms of durability, green, red, viton, etc... Thanks!

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Originally Posted by NICE 69 S

Wow, Rawknees 'Turbo beat me by three minutes.

That's because "turbo powaaa'", bro!!!

[DeRRis]

Originally Posted by Vino

Can we assume the seals that are on the tensioner can be purchased separately?
Is there a specific seal that works better in terms of durability, green, red, viton, etc... Thanks!

Timing Chain Tensioner O-Ring 99970169040 - Genuine Porsche - 999-701-690-40 | Pelican Parts

Carrera Pressure-Fed Chain Tensioner O-Ring 99970169040 - Victor Reinz - Porsche - 999-701-690-40 | Pelican Parts