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Stripped seat bolts, yikes!

Hi fellow Pelicans,

I've been lurking around for a while but never posted before. I just purchased my first 911 a few weeks ago and I love it! I got a good deal on a 1984 Carrera cab with under 90K miles. Having said that, I once read that if you buy a 30+ Year old car, someone who had no idea what they were doing worked on it at some point! I found that out today (in a minor way luckily).

I'm planing on removing the seats and having them professionally redone. Foam, cover and all. So... I pushed the seats all the way forward to see that two of the four Allan bolts are well stripped. I didn't attempt to turn them. Instead I sprayed them with "high performance" penetrant and here I am. So... any advice before I attempt the all or nothing torque? They look very hard to access with any sort of Dremel or other cutting tool.

Thanks,

Alex

Old 11-21-2016, 12:01 PM
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Get the holes nice and clean and you might be able to hammer in an allen bit and get a little bit of meat to turn. You can put a wrench on the bit.
Or an easy out if that doesn't work.
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:50 PM
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KTL KTL is offline
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My friend Mark previously owned my current '86 911 and I recall him cursing like crazy trying to drill out the seat mounting bolts. So my point is that this is not uncommon!

I would suggest going to the hardware store and get a fluted extractor that has a diameter near the size of the allen head. Key is to pick one that is not too small. Cut the extractor bit's tip to size with your Dremel so that it's a hammer-fit like 911 Rod describes. Then the fluted extractor will bite into the hole as you turn it.

Fluted extractor looks like this Head Nut Stripped on a 3.2
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:59 PM
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Well I tried one good turn to no avail. So I slotted the bolt with my dremel and hammered on the back of a big flathead screwdriver. It worked! Driver's seat removed. Passenger to go!

Thanks guys
Old 11-21-2016, 01:08 PM
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You might consider torx bolts on the way back.
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Old 11-21-2016, 01:27 PM
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All done! If ever someone finds this post having the same problem, I found a great technique. Insert the Allen key in the stripped slot and use a big flathead screwdriver to pry between the top of the Allen key and the seat itself. This will get the key further in. When ready to turn, pry as hard as possible to ensure purchase! Worked wonders for me!
Old 11-21-2016, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex599 View Post
Well I tried one good turn to no avail. So I slotted the bolt with my dremel and hammered on the back of a big flathead screwdriver. It worked! Driver's seat removed. Passenger to go!

Thanks guys
This is the technique I used on one stubborn factory set bolt. Nothing else worked.
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Old 11-21-2016, 03:02 PM
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Can you take a photo of this technique?
Simulate, since it's not stripped anymore
It's hard to understand without a photo.
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Old 11-21-2016, 04:16 PM
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My guess someone stripped these using an allen key while hanging upside down.
I swap in my track seat numerous times a year and I find the best method is to cut a section of the key off and put a wrench or socket on it. Make sure the bit is in well before cranking on it.

Just thought I would throw this out there.
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Old 11-22-2016, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
Can you take a photo of this technique?
Simulate, since it's not stripped anymore
It's hard to understand without a photo.
Here you go. And yes, my graphic talents are divine I know.

Alex
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Old 11-22-2016, 05:50 AM
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That's actually a very nice drawing.

OK, so the pry leverage is just to push the allen key down harder, but how does this help if it's stripped? The friction is now created at the bottom/floor of the allen hole, and not from the stripped sides? Similar effect as glueing the allen key to the bottom of the bolt hole?
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Old 11-22-2016, 05:54 AM
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Seat bolts.

The PB Blaster, cut-off allen wrench + a torque extension worked for me.

In your case, try the Dremel/big a$$ screwdriver idea.

And, when you replace don't forget to add some Anti-Seize.

Best,

Gerry
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Last edited by 86 911 Targa; 11-22-2016 at 06:47 AM..
Old 11-22-2016, 06:44 AM
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Good job!!
I was going to recommend either using a hex bit, or cutting a slot and using a flat head bit, in one of these:



Saved my butt MANY times.
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Old 11-22-2016, 08:07 AM
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BTW, its an impact driver.
Every time you smack it with a hammer, it turns just a little bit.
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Old 11-22-2016, 08:08 AM
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Nice job on the removal solution!

A good key to have for getting the bolts out and in when they are sticking up/not fully seated is a ball-end key. The ball end allows you to pivot the key off of perpendicular as you're turning the bolt. It's sort of like having a universal joint on your hex key.

But be careful using the ball end with a lot of turning torque. The ball end reduces the amount of contact area inside the bolt head and you're more likely to strip the head if it's stubborn & won't come loose.

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Old 11-22-2016, 09:02 AM
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Tight fit for a Dremel or no big deal?
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Old 11-22-2016, 03:26 PM
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A Dremel with a moderately sized cutoff wheel will get into that location no problem
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Old 11-23-2016, 07:21 AM
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Make sure and use a very wide screwdriver, and make your cuts deep into the heads so you don't spin out of them.
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Old 11-23-2016, 07:26 AM
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I'd use a screw driver bit on a socket.
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1986 Carrera
2001 996TT
A bunch of stuff with spark plugs
Old 11-23-2016, 07:28 AM
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Drill baby drill.

Why do the germans love allen bolts so much? You should see the stuff they use on Audi now. Allen, torx, and even triple square bolts. What a crock !

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Old 11-23-2016, 08:20 AM
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