I need help removing rear bumper valance

[Trakrat]

I cannot remove the bottom valance from rear bumper. This is the bottom part with the exhaust cut-out.

I have tried PB Blaster, Impact Driver, even drilling out the screws.

I'm not sure why, but every drill bit just spins inside the screw without any bite to it.
I've even broken a screw extractor in one of them.

I'm lost as to what to do. Should I just scrap the bumper and buy a new one?
Do I need a hammer drill to get the drill bit to bite into the screw? Or is there a specific drill bit specifically used to drill screws that i'm missing?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...what can I do to get these screws off?

[uwanna]

I have wrestled with your very dilema, but solved it with this tool, called a "motorcycle impact driver". You just use correct tip inserted in the screw and smack the tool with a BF hammer and viola, screw comes loose. Available at Harbor Freight or any auto parts store for $10 or so. It's a life saver.
You said you used an impact driver, I don't know if you meant an air impact wrench,
but that's what I assume.
Sounds like you may have already destroyed your screws trying to drill them out, but for future reference
THIS is THE TOOL to remove those screws.

[Lake Guy]

I had a similar problem removing my valence. I cut the heads with a mini grinder with a zip disc. Have to be careful not to damage the valence. After that I cut/ground the remaining screws flush, centre punched, then drilled with a small diam bit. After I got the pilot hole I then eventually moved to a high quality #1 bit. As I recall, nothing was a problem other than doing the work.

You'll get it - good luck.

[dentist90]

Had the same problem. Old Phillips head screws were corrosion welded into the Al bumper. I removed the bumper with the valance attached and ground/drilled the old screws out. To avoid future problems I retapped the holes in the bumper and used hex head bolts to reattach the valence, also using antisieze on them. At least with hex bolt heads I will be able to use a socket on them next time instead of a screwdriver.

re: your problem with drill bits not biting, it may just be that the bits are dull. Or you're not getting enough pressure on them if you're working upside down under the bumper. I remember one screw in particular that I cut a slot thru the head with a Dremel to take it out with a slot bit in a socket wrench. The head just snapped, leaving the screw stuck in the bumper. It was just easier to get out the bugger screws with the bumper off on the floor, valance up.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by uwanna

I have wrestled with your very dilema, but solved it with this tool, called a "motorcycle impact driver". You just use correct tip inserted in the screw and smack the tool with a BF hammer and viola, screw comes loose. Available at Harbor Freight or any auto parts store for $10 or so. It's a life saver.
You said you used an impact driver, I don't know if you meant an air impact wrench,
but that's what I assume.
Sounds like you may have already destroyed your screws trying to drill them out, but for future reference
THIS is THE TOOL to remove those screws.

Thanks ... that's exactly what I have tried to use. Not even sure I'm using it right... I hit it and nothing moves. Felt like an idiot after hammering it for 10 minutes with no results

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by dentist90

I remember one screw in particular that I cut a slot thru the head with a Dremel to take it out with a slot bit in a socket wrench. The head just snapped, leaving the screw stuck in the bumper. It was just easier to get out the bugger screws with the bumper off on the floor, valance up.

That's what I might try... perhaps a flathead would at least either allow me to snap it off or break it loose.
Though I don't think my drill is strong enough to even do this...

I have the bumper off... but I want to take the valance off as I plan on going with a straight exhaust from fabspeed.

[911tracker85]

I have also used screw/bolt extractors. don't have a pic of the small ones for your problem, but looks a lot like tapered reverse drill bit. drill a small pilot hole into the screw, then reverse screw the extractor until it bites into the remaining part of the screw. if the screw is totally rusting in place, may not work.

others have already explained the brute force method we too often have to revert to on these old cars.

had to use a BIG one to get my gearbox drain plug out of my 911.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by 911tracker85

I have also used screw/bolt extractors. don't have a pic of the small ones for your problem, but looks a lot like tapered reverse drill bit. drill a small pilot hole into the screw, then reverse screw the extractor until it bites into the remaining part of the screw. if the screw is totally rusting in place, may not work.

Yep.... my screw extractor broke with part of it in the screw. Not really sure how to get that one out..
I'll probably see about using the dremel to grind it down or cut a slot into it to put a flathead driver in it.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by Trakrat

Thanks ... that's exactly what I have tried to use. Not even sure I'm using it right... I hit it and nothing moves. Felt like an idiot after hammering it for 10 minutes with no results

Not to question your mechanic chops, but were you sure to set the "direction ring"
to remove vs tighten. Just press down on it and make sure the screw driver bit tries to turn counter clockwise. Then insert in the screw with the tightest fit blade and just give it a really good whack or two. I have used it many times to remove those damn phillips screws on the valence with no problem when all other tries failed!
As an old motorcycle rider, that tool was indispensible in the old days!

[Brorag]

I went the uwanna route too. I'm assuming you've soaked it with something to break up the crud.