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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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How to r and r transmission to chassis ground
Total time about 4 hours, most of it spent cleaning. The 2 bolts are 13 mm in diameter. Removing the ground strap from the transmission was relatively easy, it took some experimenting with extensions and sockets to get the right length so that I could get the ratchet in there. You have to go in from the front reaching back and there is not a lot of room. The transmission mount in in the way. Brake cleaner and a brass brush cleaned up the filth. I should have worn gloves, black hands. Cleaned the ground strap ends with a brass brush and sprayed the ends with Deoxit. Installation of the strap to the trans was by needle nose pliers and feel, you can’t get your fingers in there. All the hardware was brass brushed and sprayed with Deoxit as well. R and R of the strap to the chassis was much easier. Again, clean and brass brush. Soaked everything with Deoxit and torqued the nut. I was amazed at the poor condition of the old ground strap and the contact surfaces were totally corroded. The contact surfaces on the transmission and chassis were filthy as well. I wonder what kind of current wasn’t going through the ground strap and going through the other grounds? I think I am going to go after all of the other grounds now.
Old transmission to ground strap. Old ground strap to chassis New ground strap installed to transmission Another view showing old strap Tools Old strap
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1988 Carrera coupe 1966 250 Ducati 2015 VW Golf TDI gone because Dieselgate! 2021 VW Golf TSI 2014 Ninja 300 |
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Snitz... thanks for taking the time to photodocument---nice pics. Did some reading on DeoxIT. Interesting chem. Thinking about testing as fan metal preservative.
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Karl ~~~ Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2. 964 cams, SSI, Dansk 2 in 1 out muf, custom fuel feed with spin on filter Prior: '77 Copper 924. '73 Black 914. '74 White Carrera. '79 Silver, Black, Anthracite 930s. |
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1/4 inch drive extensions and swivel work well.
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Pete 79 911SC RoW "Tornadoes come out of frikkin nowhere. One minute everything is all sunshine and puppies the next thing you know you've got flying cows".- Stomachmonkey |
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82 911 SC - Ancora Imparo
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Thanks for the pics and info. I completed this today in about 2.5 hours. As you said, most of the time was cleaning. Also, I agree that 1/4" drive extensions worked well. I didn't need a swivel but see how it could help some folks. Lastly, on my 82 SC, I could see/touch/access the rearward bolt from the rear but still needed to remove it from the front obviously.
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Ethan 1982 911 SC - Wine Red Metallic Coupe |
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If you have need to replace the mounting washers for the transmission or need to R&R the bracket much easier to get at the ground strap.
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Northeast Ohio 1987 Porsche 911 Targa 1966 VW Beetle, 6V |
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Rome, on a G50 the removal of the trans cross bar there is little to support the trans because lowering the trans facilitates the changing of the starter. Also, if you depend on the swivel in the back seat to support the trans that’s a couple hundred dollars.
Agreed, the removal of the cross bar on the SC trans, after supporting the trans, would have been much faster. Bruce |
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Yes, should have mentioned that I made sure that the transmission was supported with sturdy jack stand and heavy metal brace.
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Location: Great NorthWest
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This is a great post and reminds us all how old ground straps become increasingly resistant to carrying loads over time. A solid alternator > trans > chassis connection gives you real peace of mind and is an essential component to working back on alternator and charging issues.
I was stunned at the corrosion found under the skin of my old alt > trans wire when I last replaced my alternator. And I am obsessed with bad grounding having worked on British iron for so many years.
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Reviving a dead thread hoping someone can help me out. Recently picked up a 76 912E. When I got it the grounding strap was not attached on the transmission side of the car. it was just hanging off. I got a new strap but due to the location of the stud its hard to tell what the thread size of the nut is.
Hoping someone can help or point me in the right direction. |
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13 mm nut is usually fitted to an M8 bolt or stud. You will need to measure the thread pitch. If you don't have a pitch tool puzzle in a 1.0 or a 1.25 mm pitch bolt to the stud to see which one fits, and that will be your nut size. Maybe try fitting the nut on the chassis side on the transmission side to see if it's the same. It's likely to be M8 1.0 given the other hardware used in that area.
Last edited by 917_Langheck; 11-18-2024 at 05:54 PM.. |
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M8 1.25, check! ✔️
Thanks for corroborating the correct spec. |
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Quote:
I really appreciate it! Really hoping this finally gets rid of my brake warning light on on the dash! Guys just wanted to follow up with this. That is the correct size and it did fix my brake warning light. Thank you for the help.... now on to the next round of issues. Last edited by Clumsy me; 11-21-2024 at 10:57 AM.. |
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