Throttle Rod Bushing - Replacement

[mooney265]

I had a "situation" a couple weeks ago whereas when the clutch was fully depressed and the throttle was fully depressed, the two cables would "bind" and the throttle would get stuck until the clutch was released. I did some searching and decided the first course of action was to rebuild the pedal cluster with brass bushings. So, did some more searching on the process. After a bit of cussing and a lot of pacing my work, I was able to complete the job. One item which was in serious need of replacement was the throttle bell crank bushing - as it had completely disintegrated - - so I 'thought' I had found the cause...

Once the pedal cluster was put back in the car [yesterday], I decided to test my work. Wouldn't you know, the same problem was still there! But, this time I could really hear the 'binding' noise coming from just forward of the shifter on the left side of the inside of the tunnel.

So, off to more searching and came up with the 3 Throttle Rod Bushings and how to replace. Ordered them yesterday [should arrive by Friday]. And, began to tear out the center area of the car: center console [I have one], shifter, E-brake, seats, carpeting, rear shifter linkage cover [whatever it's called]... And, wouldn't you know, all three of these items were gone - - well, they were 'blobs' of goopy stuff right below their mounting points.

My question: knowing all this, how confident do you feel I've happened on the right fix [this time]? I've read some other posts about bell cranks being bent [mine didn't appear to be] and other items causing throttles to get stuck... Also, is there something I could use besides this part which will do the job better [and not turn into goop]? Just want to have the correct game plan going into this weekend when the parts arrive. Thanks, Shannon

[Pazuzu]

It'll take then 20 more years to turn to goop again, they work fine.
The kicker is getting in there and getting everything aligned.
Even though it multiplies the work several times, I suggest trying to remove the throttle rod completely via the hole near the transmission. This lets you clean it all up, get all of the old nasty grease and goop off of there, and also lets you check out the vibration suppression assembly that is hidden under that rubber boot.

Getting the rod back in sucks, but I used grease and put electrical tape over the tip to keep the threads from catching on stuff. Use lots of lighting, some extra eyes, and try to look through the hole near the transmission to get a sense of the route the throttle rod needs to take. If you get it wrong, you will bind.

[KTL]

The clutch cable clevis and the throttle reversing lever (the large linkage piece just to the right of #4 in the picture and below the ball socket #26) are really close in the pedal area. When the bushings for the reversing lever fail, it allows the lever to touch the clutch cable.

I think those #30 bushings fail because they get contaminated with petroleum grease & oil, which eats plastic. If you lube those #30 bushings with synthetic grease, they won't be as likely to crumble again. I think a lot of people have problems with these throttle rod bushings because of a leaky shift rod seal and the air in the tunnel is filled with gear oil vapor

That isolation coupler that Mike mentioned (#32) is known to fail as well. That's a good thing to replace while you're in there, again?

[mooney265]

Kevin and Mike - - thanks for the replies. while the isolation coupler may not be causing my clutch and throttle cables to bind, it certainly deserves an inspection.

I get what you're saying about the petroleum grease breaking down the bushings. I'll take your advice and use synthetic grease.

Question: isn't the "throttle reversing lever" called the "bell crank housing?" - - If that isn't the dard-est name? how on earth they come up with that name is beyond me...

Thanks again!

[mooney265]

So, I got the bushings changed out, and it didn't fix the "binding" problem. It did, however, fix the "no bushings" problem.

Immediately after realizing my Throttle and Clutch cables were still binding I wedged my head deep deep into the pedal corner and finally noticed the cause of the binding. Somehow my bellcrank housing had gotten bent closer to the clutch cable and was getting hung up on the clutch clevis pin. The fix was simple [since I had new brass bushings installed] I got a large set of channel lock pliers and simply bent the bellcrank back to the left about 3/4". Now, everything works as designed with no chance of the throttle getting stuck on the clutch clevis pin. Man, after 15+ hrs, that was easy!

On a side note, I did run across another post where someone had stumbled on the same problem and simply bent the bellcrank away from the clutch. I figured "there's no way I bent that item" so I just didn't go there... Goes to show, the answer to your problem is most certainly somewhere on this form - - just need to find it!

[KTL]

The one that's typically referred to as the bell crank is the one mounted on the transmission and the other one up on top of the engine. I think the term bell crank comes from the way bells were rung in old bell towers- long rope goes up the tower to a lever mounted to a rod that rotates. On another part of the rod is another lever with a rope that's connected to the bell. Guy down below pulls the rope, the levers exchange movement and ring the bell.

[MDPorsche]

Mooney265... What is the process to change the bushings? How difficult?