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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Western Canada
Posts: 161
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stalling at idle
Received back my rebuilt WUR from Tony, and ran all the fuel pressure tests; I now hae residual pressure for an hour after shutting off the fuel pump; previously I had pressure drop to zero in about 20 seconds after shutting off the fuel pump. I traced the leak to the WUR and Tony rectified the problem during the rebuild.
I now have the WUR back in the car; the car runs very nice and smoothly, and has no more hot start issues which lead me down the path of testing the entire fuel system previously. Anyway, the issue I am having now after reinstalling the rebuilt WUR is the car stalling at idle constantly unless you are giving it gas. The cars runs absolutely smoothly otherwise, but when you approach a stop, or come off of the gas for a quick down shift, the lower central red light on the oil gauge (alternator light I believe) comes on and the car stalls. The car restarts beautifully every time, but obviously this makes the car a PITA to drive as even backing it up or turning it around sucks because if you are not on the throttle and are coasting at all the car stalls. I'm not sure if this new issue is at all related to the rebuilding of the WUR or not, but thought I would ask for trouble shooting advise. Again the car starts and runs great, but if you come off the throttle and coast or stop the car, the red light on the lower oil gauge comes on and the car stalls. Suggestions fellas? |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
Posts: 8,491
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Suggest yoy check the distributor setting. Move the spark forward some, maybe 5 degrees
Have it warm at idle, set your idle at about 1k See if this changes anything. If you need something more, enrich the idle until the motor starts seeking idle then back it off. Don't move the setting more than 1/4 turn or you'll go out of control. Enriched the system then back it down to a constant idle. Adjust the bypass screw to bring your isle under 1k Bruce |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Western Canada
Posts: 161
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So on these cars, does turning the distributor clock wise advance the timing?
I'll play with the timing, idle and dwell tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
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what year is the car.
it could be running too rich or the idle could just be too low. if you can "feather" the idle down and it will idle, then it is probably too rich. if it wont idle at all then the idle is too low. first adjust the idle so it will idle when warm. then, rev it up and let the RPM come down. if the RPM drops down low then comes back up, or it just drops and dies, you are too rich. check your timing first. make sure it is correct. you did check the pressures after getting the WUR back? what are they
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Western Canada
Posts: 161
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Don't have the numbers with me at work but the rebuilt WUR numbers were good; sent them to Tony for verification
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Western Canada
Posts: 161
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The car is a 76
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Registered
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Unmetered air.......
Todd,
Before you go crazy chasing your problem/s, pressure test the system for unmetered air. Once you have confirmed and verified the absence of unmetered air, test the fuel pressures which I think you did already. Adjusting the mixture setting is your last option. Keep us posted. Tony |
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