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Drivers side power window issue

I just got my 88 911, and the drivers side power window are not working.

I have 12,4V to the switch, on pin 1, 2, 3 and 5 when the switch are at rest possition.

When i move switch to lowering possition, I have 9V, and after 5-6 seconds and then I can hear a click and voltage raises to 12,4 volts for a few seconds and then drops again. Window are not moving at all.

Any ideas what the issue can be?

(Pictures borrowed from other tread)
Old 08-24-2017, 03:57 AM
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Probably the switch, apply 12 volts to the two blue wires the ones labeled 1 and 2 in your photo and see if window works.
Old 08-24-2017, 04:53 AM
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Same Problem

I have the exact same problem with my passenger window. I tested the switch and have 12.6v at terminals 1,2,3, and 5 also. No motor sound. Nothing happened when I applied voltage to the blue and blue/black motor wires directly. I replaced both passenger switches yesterday and they show the same results on terminals 1,2,3, and 5.

Here's the strange part. My drivers window works perfectly yet I see the same 12.6v at terminals 1,2,3, and 5 also on the drivers switch.

I also see 9v when the switches are pressed on the passenger side switch.
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Old 08-24-2017, 05:36 AM
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How old is the switch?
Almost every time I have had a window issue it has been the switch.
Old 08-24-2017, 05:43 AM
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is the motor working?
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Old 08-24-2017, 05:45 AM
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Please look at my post #3 here. I have the same problem as the OP with the voltages I see at the same terminals and after pressing the switch.

Note that I changed both switches with new ones and show the same results.

It's either normal for the switches to behave that way or we both share a common problem but I don't think the cause is switches.
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Old 08-24-2017, 06:13 AM
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was just asking as I had an issue with a non working motor and it had a "broken" cable near the motor. so in this case you can fiddle with switches and cables hanging ot the door panels as long as you want without solving the problem.
I had to take of the door panel and pull the motor to find out.
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Old 08-24-2017, 06:22 AM
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Check the black relay in the frunk. I had weird problems where one side would work and the other would not. Then one day all the switches failed. Replaced the relay and fixed.
Old 08-24-2017, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazzerr View Post
Check the black relay in the frunk. I had weird problems where one side would work and the other would not. Then one day all the switches failed. Replaced the relay and fixed.
Is it this relay? (944.615.166.00)
Who are the manufactor of the relay and window switches, is it Bosch?
Old 08-25-2017, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-w203 View Post
Is it this relay? (944.615.166.00)
Who are the manufactor of the relay and window switches, is it Bosch?
Old 08-25-2017, 01:29 AM
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Old 08-25-2017, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86 911 Targa View Post
Thanks
Old 08-25-2017, 04:10 AM
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Window Switch Answer

As I mentioned I was having the exact same voltage results on terms #1,2,3 and 5 of my passenger switch. Term 4 is ground.

With the expert help I got last night from 86 911 Targa who spent valuable time discussing this with me I think we have an answer. So before I spent time chasing a lot of potential wiring and relay problems that don't exist Gerry walked through the wiring schematic with me.

What he found was this. I'll explain what I believe he was telling me within my ability to understand the electrical "black magic" that happens.

The power window motors are not directly grounded. They get their ground through term #4 of the switch. Therefore power goes to term #1,2,3 and 5 of the switch to provide the voltage. That's why we saw power to those terminals.

The ground circuit is completed through the switch when depressed in either the open or closed position thus completing the circuit and powering the motor.

Thank you 86 911 Targa for all the help on this.
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Last edited by big911fan; 08-25-2017 at 07:56 AM..
Old 08-25-2017, 06:40 AM
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No the relay is a round black one in the front fuse box. If you take the lid off there's usually a diagram. It will show you which one. On an '82 SC at least.
Old 08-29-2017, 04:44 PM
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P/w

Quote:
Originally Posted by gazzerr View Post
No the relay is a round black one in the front fuse box. If you take the lid off there's usually a diagram. It will show you which one. On an '82 SC at least.
Our M/Y 86 3.2 has only the power window
control unit as per my post, and the
factory diagram.

Also, the posted pics of the switches
are from our '86.

Gerry
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:02 PM
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I have now meassured out the window switch, and it`s OK.
I have also tried to connect 12V direct to the window motor, but nothing happens so I guess my problem are motor related.

Next step for me are to remove the door panel to have a look. Is it easy to remove door panel?
Old 08-31-2017, 10:53 AM
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Basically, yes. Some screws, some tweaks; guess you'll find pictures in a book, here on Pelican or the internet
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Old 08-31-2017, 10:58 AM
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Just a little update from me, in case somebody else have the same problem.

Like i mentioned before, I had 12,5V to switch, and 9V out of the switch when operating it.

I removed the door panel, and disconnected plug to window motor, and the I had 12,5V.

The reason for the whole problem was that the window was stuck. I just gave it a little cranck with the emergency window tool, and then everything was OK.

Hopefully this can be helpfull for somebody else. :-)
Old 10-06-2017, 04:57 AM
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I fixed my passenger window pretty much the same way. I tapped on it with a small hammer to loosen it up. I couldn't find an emergency crank tool in the tool kit and no hex wrenches fit.

It looked like there were no splines in the window crank mechanism to use to crank the window manually. I tried several different sizes of metric and US hex wrenches but nothing worked. The hammer finally did the job. Only used light taps...
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Old 10-06-2017, 05:51 AM
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