Seemingly unique SBH G50 fitment issues

[75 outlaw]

I have a modified 1975 911 that I bought with a stock '87 G50 transmission and a '79 3.0. When the previous owner did the G50 mod they actually cut the center portion of the torsion bar tube out of an '87-'89 car and welded it into the '75 body. I have since bought a 3.3 turbo with 400ish HP and a SBH G50 that was built to handle the power. My problem is that my transmission brace or the mounting holes in the brace need to be moved back about 29mm (do to the SBH).

Has anyone come across this issue before? I talked to Patrick Motorsports and they don't sell anything that will work for me. I'm sure someone has done it!

[Antonov]

Did they shorten the nose cone or the bell housing where it bolts to the engine case? If its the later of the two like I'm thinking, perhaps you could bolt up the gearbox using the standard gearbox brace, and modify the engine brace to effectively move the engine fwd by 29mm. Obviously there is a substantial advantage to be gained by doing this as opposed to moving the gearbox back and keeping the engine in its original location.

[75 911s]

We're gunna need a picture of that 75 outlaw...

[75 outlaw]

Well I spent the morning thinking I would be able to move the engine and trans forward the inch or so. I was feeling pretty good about it until I noticed that the oil pump was going to hit the left shock.

So I'm back to the original plan. This is a picture of the modified torsion bar tube.



And the transmission brace.




My idea is to have the brace mounting holes machines flat and add a 1/2 steel plate so I can relocate the mounting points the 1" back that I need.
This is a picture of the short bell housing that is causing the problem...




And more of the engine and transmission together... and the other two reasons I need to use the built transmission instead of the stock G50...has anyone come across this issue?

[MoreGAS]

75'r
Hey. We have fitted some of these G50s and 50-50s w different combos before and you may push out the rubber from the trans mounts ea side, then weld-in solid turned round to proper dia. pcs of aluminum(making the trans mount solid at the same height as stock, then redrill the holes by a good % of the amount you need, maybe spacing the motor fwd a little if not all doable with the new holes in gbx cross mount alone? I don't have bits here now to measure...
If a streeter you may prefer/want quiet , you don't want to have it(mtr and gbx) mounted solidly , you'd have to devise some hard type rubber insulator mount scheme like WEVO does in their 915-930 mounts but it should not be too hard.

Good luck

Kevin
GAS Motorsport