3.6 conversion week two - progress and questions

[pbs911]

Buying a 3.6 is one thing, installing it in a non-DME controlled 911 is something else. And the while your in there's really take up the time.
Last weekend the motor was pulled and the new motor cleaned up and stared at. With Wayne's book and reviwing posts on the board it took me no more than 5 hours to pull the motor. (First engine drop) Removing the rear bumper really makes the job easy.


All the usuals were replaced, flywheel seal, the correct sensors that mate with my guages, case breather housing gasket, thermostate housing o-ring (no engine mounted thermostate on the 3.6 but there is an o-ring, thanks Tyson) and the valves adjusted. The trans was cleaned up and new input and output seals were installed since I found a trail of blue fluid in my shifter tunnel.

Dr. Timmin's kit arrived and has good instructions. The powersteering housing was replaced with block off plate, the throttle linkage is in place, the bell housing was notched for teh DME sensor and mounted to the motor along with a new high torque starter. The DME harness was intalled through a 2" hole cut in the rear of the engine firewall, and the wiring hooked up in the engine compartment. Still have to run the wiring from the DME to the guages and fuel pump. I also painted the engine compartment since it was not painted at the same time as the reset of the car.


I'm still waiting on the modified rear engine brace and rear engine tin from Dr. Timmins, Al Reed still has my fan, housing, valve covers and the remaining engine tin for powder coating, and the impeller shaft to convert the alt to a single pulley won't be in until thurs. Otherwise I think the motor would be installed tomorrow and started up. At least I hope it starts right up.

I do have a question on the starter wiring. My old 3.0 had two yellow wires and one red wire that connected to the starter. The new 3.6 only has one red and one yellow, the latter with a different connector (see below). Is this the only yellow wire that get connected to the starter or is there another one from the body of the car?


Finally, the 14 pin connectors on the motor at the body don't have exactly the same color wires. If I screw up can I fry something?

[schubee]

Paul, it's looking great! Let me know when your transplant takes place. I would like to be there and help if you need it.

BTW, you mentioned this being your daily driver. How are you getting around? Give me a call if you need a ride, my SC is just sitting here collecting dust!

[Kevin Stewart]

Paul Timmins instructions talks about this, i guess your supposed to look at the manual and match up the colors, i was shorted some parts, im still doing the waite game, thats ok been doin the 15 hr day thing the last week so i havent had no time, hopefully by the weekend i can resume also.

How did you get the harness out from the engine compartment, i see where it goes around the shock tower but not where it comes out, where did you disconnect it in the engine compartment,
moving slow but still hope for a install in two weeks, well if work slows some. Kevin

[pbs911]

How did you get the harness out from the engine compartment

Kevin, are you talking about the wiring harness that runs from the DME box that came with the 3.6, or the wiring harness that originally ran to the fuse panel in the car? The one that was originally in the car remains in the car. You don't take it out. You run the new DME harness together with the old harness - they control different things. It's the new engine the engine side femal 14 pin connector that connects to the male 14 pin connection shown in the lower left pic abov
Dr. Timmins says to match up the colors, but what do you do when there are no two wires that match?

John, It is my daily driver. Luckily I was able to borrow a car while mine is down. Driving that car really makes me appreciate the SC.

BTW, I found there is only one yellow wire at the starter.

[KTL]

Originally posted by pbs911
Removing the rear bumper really makes the job easy.

I'm glad somebody agrees with me on this!!!

Looking good Paul. Sounds like you're moving along nicely. It'll start.

[Don Plumley]

Wow Paul - looks really cool. I guess you'll be installing the new motor next weekend. Unfortunately, I'll be out of town on a family thing - sure would have like to seen the new motor go in.

Don

[Kevin Stewart]

paul do you run the oe brain also? im pretty lost, im talking about the loom that goes to the dme, Kevin

[pbs911]

Kevin, there are three wiring harnesses at issue as far as I can tell: (1) the harness that runs on the chasis to the fuse panel in the left rear engine compartment with the 14 pin male connector; (2) the DMS harness that runs from the DME brain through the firewall and has the connections for the MOTOR- i.e. coils, etc.; and (3) the harness on the motor. You get rid of the harness that is on the old motor and replace it with the harness on the 964 motor. The motor harness has the 14 pin female connection that attaches to the chasis harness (1). However, you don't have to remove the engine harness because it is already on the motor. By changing the motor you are already changing the engine harness. It is the engine harness (3) that you have to move the pins and confirm their placement by matching the colors on the chasis side harness. My problem is that three of the wires on the 964 motor harness are not as described in Dr. Timmins diagram and do not match the wire colors at the chasis side 14 pin connector. They are close but not exact. The new DME harness (2) does not connect to the the rear engine fuse panel via the 14 pin connection but runs the timing and fuel injectors.
Hope this helps. It's a little difficult to describe.

[rfix'n]

I've seen a pin out for the 3.6 on here, probably posted by Bill Verburg. I've got a '78 as well so I'm sure I'll run into the same problem. Have you thought about using the pin out and an ohm meter with some long test leads? Which pins are not matching?

Whatever you end up if you post your results here I would be very appreciative.

Thanks

here's one

and another, this one from a '77

Although the '77 is probably slightly different than ours it would be a good starting point since you only have a couple that don't match up.

[pbs911]

Kevin, disregard the above post. That would only apply to non-DME cars. I was going through some past posts and realized you halready have a DME from a 3.2. So yes, you will have to remove the DME harness. But I imagine you will not remove the chasis harness since it will be a separate harness.

[RickM]

Paul: Your progress looks great. Can't wait to see how this puppy flys when done.
Rick

[ischmitz]

Paul,

the reason you have two yellow wires is that one activates the cold start valve on your 3.2 while you are cranking. The other comes from the ignition switch. You obviously don't need the first one anylonger.

Keep us updated on your progress.

Ingo

[ischmitz]

Paul,

have you checked my web site for the 964 pin asignment?

http://www.di.com/home/ingo/schematics.htm Click on the graphics to enlarge. You can call me if you have more questions.

Ingo