Door stop replacement.

[86 911 Targa]

Just replaced the driver's side door stop on our '86.

Unfortunately the "clicking in both door
stop position still prevails when opening
or closing the door.

I first installed the door stop lever w/pin.

Then bolted the two 8mm bolts.

Adjusting the vertical position of the
door stop did not help.

Any thoughts on some lithium grease?

Is there some top-secret thread somewhere that might help?

Thanks,

Gerry

[universeman]

John Walkers advice (which has worked for me) is to replace the roll pin with a small Allen head (5mm?) bolt and a nylock nut. Crank the two together as tight as you can. If clicking returns, tighten more.

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by universeman

John Walkers advice (which has worked for me) is to replace the roll pin with a small Allen head (5mm?) bolt and a nylock nut. Crank the two together as tight as you can. If clicking returns, tighten more.

Thanks,

Will give it a try.

Best,

Gerry

[gomezoneill]

Originally Posted by universeman

John Walkers advice (which has worked for me) is to replace the roll pin with a small Allen head (5mm?) bolt and a nylock nut. Crank the two together as tight as you can. If clicking returns, tighten more.

Are you sure that was his advice? If you tighten that pivot point the stop lever wont swing and you'll bend the stop or the door frame.

[uwanna]

The newer style door stops are so STIFF, they have a lot to do with the clicking problem.
Grease won't fix it but this fix will! Door Stay repair - now can't close door
I did the fix to a couple of units and it's magic! Give it a try.

[sballard]

UWANNA-

Can you give us the link to the post? What you posted just takes us to the forum.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by sballard

UWANNA-

Can you give us the link to the post? What you posted just takes us to the forum.

OK fixed it! Door Stay repair - now can't close door

[DRACO A5OG]

Credit to Uwanna:

Originally Posted by uwanna

There is a great fix for the newer units that is much better than fileing down the "humps". The pics are self explanatory. Makes them less stiff and much easier on open and close.(and on the door sheet metal)
Pics are not mine, but found on a Google search from another good Pelican. I have however done the procedure, and it works great!

[86 911 Targa]

^^^^^
The variances in door pin sizes.

I'm not sure this door stop kit fits the 3.2 cars.....

Gerry

[sballard]

I just finished making this fix and it is definitely worth the effort. I had to shave the rubber bits twice to get enough off to reduce the clack to a tolerable level.

I also noticed today that the aftermarket kit only allows me to open the door slightly more that 45 degrees. This is quite a bit less than the passenger door which opens close to 90 degrees.

[universeman]

Originally Posted by gomezoneill

Are you sure that was his advice?

I'm positive I read that advice here, I never would have come up with it on my own

Originally Posted by gomezoneill

If you tighten that pivot point the stop lever wont swing and you'll bend the stop or the door frame.

I don't think it's possible to tighten it that much...

What I've seen after implementing it, is that it holds the lever in place, so that it can work against the bumpers in the door side more forcefully. The lever can still move, it just moves less than it otherwise would if the only thing holding it were a roll pin. No idea how this works physically - my guess it allows the lever to push "through" the bumpers without going side to side and making noise.

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by sballard

I just finished making this fix and it is definitely worth the effort. I had to shave the rubber bits twice to get enough off to reduce the clack to a tolerable level.

I also noticed today that the aftermarket kit only allows me to open the door slightly more that 45 degrees. This is quite a bit less than the passenger door which opens close to 90 degrees.

On our original factory passenger side door,
there is no "clack".

And, this is the second replacement attempt.

Gerry

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by 86 911 Targa

On our original factory passenger side door,
there is no "clack".

And, this is the second replacement attempt.

Gerry

If your passenger door has the old style NLA door stops like this one, that's the reason it doesn't "clack". I lucked out and found a pair of NOS in the bag older units on the forum. Perhaps post a WTB on the for sale forum to find one.

[gwinnch]

Gerry, I replaced my drivers side about 4 months ago and the clack keeps getting louder, grease hasn't helped it either.

I used the existing roll pin too as I didn't see how the new pin would fit in that hole. Has anybody used it?

If I get time I'll try the "shave"...

Subscribed.

[RNajarian]

Originally Posted by universeman

John Walkers advice (which has worked for me) is to replace the roll pin with a small Allen head (5mm?) bolt and a nylock nut. Crank the two together as tight as you can. If clicking returns, tighten more.

I had the same issue on the driver door in my 1975 S.

I have a collection of Porsche bolts and nylon nuts, I found a 10 mm bolt with a nylon nut. Tightened it up per John Walker and annoying "click-click" is gone.

Thanks gang

[J-Mac]

I was experiencing the dreaded double "clack" sound on both doors. Fearing the worst I examined the stays. Turns out both sides had the repair pieces installed, but on both sides the bolts had loosened, and also the pins had been replaced by bolts and nylock nuts that were not tight. Tightened all up and silence was restored. These repairs were done by PO probably 6 years ago. I noticed on both pin replacement bolts the threads were worn down so the OD of the bolt was effectively smaller than the hole. Is there a bolt with short enough shoulder that would fit in place of the pin and be more robust for this application?

[86 911 Targa]

^^^^^
The new design has a solid arm which is much thicker than the previous design.



^^^^^
The old design has a two layer arm which will compress.

So, the fix in my case was to trim, as per Uwanna, the rubber pads.
This did quiet the door stop, but, grinding down the arm stop
brought about the final and very quiet results.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and hope that my comments
will help others.

Best,

Gerry

[gwinnch]

Gerry, glad yours is fixed, thanks for the info.

Wanted to relate my recent experience with my driver side stop:

Had not had time to remove & try the fix, so mine was still making noise until, returning from a drive, I opened the door to absolute quiet from the mechanism.
Puzzled, I got out and attempted to close the door but was greeted by a loud metallic crunch when it was about 3 inches from latching.

Opening the door I heard something hit the floor and observed this:


So, ... put the bolts back in with a little green loctite this time then opened and closed the door a few times-noise is gone.

[RSS]

Resurrecting an old thread. Restoring my 66' and bought new door stops from the dealer. Thought this would be a 5 minute job .

Installed the driver side (oriented correctly) and when I went to close the door, it wouldn't budge. So I thought maybe the stop was just locked up and needed a little more force to get it started as it was new. All that did is bend the arms of the stop.

Do I have the correct stop for a 66'? Do I need to modify a brand new stop to make it work? Thanks

[MBAtarga]

Ugh. Looks like an accountant got a hold of the design and revised it to make it as cheaply as possible!

Sorry - but I don't know about the specific '66 application - just making a comment on the overall "quality" of the part.