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donagain1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 347
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In the Triangle...

I'm trying to address the oil drips, and other than at the bottom of the bell housing, the only other currently wet and crud covered area is in the Devil's Triangle aka TOD. If your first notion is reply with something like "There's any number of threads dealing with this, do a search", please don't. Other than undertaking this in the first place, I'm not altogether stupid, and I've read through countless posts from guys who've done what I'm attempting. There's a few things missing from them, but it might be a situational thing, peculiar to my car or theirs.

It's my hope to do this without even a partial engine drop, and I'm really trying to avoid futzing with the fuel line/rail/injectors/harness connections that would accompany removal of the RH half of the intake manifold. With the airbox, AFM, rubber elbow removed, and some stuff shoved out of the way, I can get my hand in there and for sure R&R the oil pressure switch, maybe even remove the two thermostat bolts. But beyond that there something that would be in the way of lifting the T-stat up and out... the tan colored rather stiff and unmanageable cable that doesn't seem to have enough slack in it to shove IT out of the way. Anybody got an idea as to where the other ends of this thing is, and can I loosen it somewhere to get enough slack to get it out from on top of the T-stat. You'll see it in the photo below. For what it's worth, the grimy crud on and around the breather cover was dry, and the oily wet spots where the switch and T-stat.

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Rocklin, CA
-85 Carrera
Old 04-16-2018, 02:59 PM
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The tan cable running across the back is fuel injectors plugs.
Removing air flow sensor and air cleaner gives you some access but most you need is clean to open the oil galleys
I would pull the right half of the injection and change the breather hose too. You ll need 6 intake gaskets. Don’t lose the small thick washers that are on the intake at the heads
The gray across the thermostat is the main harness from alternator to the starter.
Bruce

Last edited by Flat6pac; 04-16-2018 at 03:33 PM..
Old 04-16-2018, 03:30 PM
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Thanks Bruce. I was hoping to avoid R&Ring the right half of the injection, but it would certainly provide more access to scrub the area. I'm with you as far as it not being good to open the oil galley with this much crud. If I pull the neg cable at the battery, and free the connections at the starter, would that cable running to the alternator then be able to be shoved back through the firewall (I assume there's a rubber grommet or something) enough to provide room in there?

As for removing the right side injection (manifold), from the look of things I'd have to disconnect the transverse fuel line from the damper, and the same thing at the other end of the fuel rail beneath the a/c compressor (which would also have to be set aside). Would snipping the tie wraps securing the injector harness to the rail and disconnecting the three connectors to the injectors enable the injectors themselves to remain with the manifold and the whole thing to be removed as an assembly? I want to minimize the amount of fuel connections I disturb. I suppose there's always residual gas in the lines and rails to be careful of spilling, but is there any check valve that maintains fuel pressure in there so it sprays everywhere when I crack open the first fuel line fitting?
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Rocklin, CA
-85 Carrera
Old 04-16-2018, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donagain1 View Post
Just a thought - maybe approach the TOD one step at a time. In the photo above, the oil pressure switch looks like it has some residual oil on one half of it - maybe that is a source of leaking, which you can remedy by applying JB Weld around the base of it, i.e. where the red base fits into the metal. (Credit to Tony Donato - learned this in his class).

Good luck

Jason
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Old 04-16-2018, 05:14 PM
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