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CV joint rebuild question while offering a tip
Apologies if this has been covered where the forum has grown beyond galaxy that search no longer is my friend...
Allow me ask a question first: I thought CV boot flange thickness varied by different brands but I just noticed that some of the boot flanges I had on my car had this approx 7.3mm-ish thick spacers. Don't recall what brand boot kit these were but I think I remember I chose a very cheap brand. I don't think I have seen any picture or instruction telling me to keep those and use when re-installing boot kit back on the CV/axle. In the mean time, I didn't notice these spacers until I got to the 2nd axle so the driver side CV boots were installed without these spacers. With that, I noticed that the CV bolts stick out of the flange a lot and I resorted in using shorter bolts. Any insight on these spacers? Anyone? Allow me offer a tip: My 1984 Carrera CV/axles have no end caps at both ends so preventing making mess with grease when re-installing axles is near impossible for me. But if you applied grease into CV in the following sequence, you'd get a little closer to a clean install. Assuming you removed the whole axle off the car to rebuild CV and replace boots... 1. at least the main cage can be de-greased using brake cleaner to adhere CV gasket 2. reassemble cleaned CV 3. slip boot kits on axle (install the aforementioned spacer in the boot flange) 4. install concave washer (I saw a suspicious picture somewhere the washer goes right before circlip but I assume that's wrong...or am I?) 5. slide dry CV on the axle 6. install circlip then... 7. grease boot side of CVs. Manipulate CV bearing positions along the way for thoroughness 8. grease outside of the hub side CV then... 9. position the CV in the car, sliding the axle in to the hub "pocket" carefully avoiding grease to splatter around. Install bolts and connect the CV to hub 10. now with the axle on the car, grease the outside of transmission side CV, then attach the CV to transmission flange. Beer should taste better this way... What do y'all think?
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1984 911 Carrera Coupe - 32C #73 - M64/05 1998 E36 M3 4dr 2006 Sienna 5dr - the hauler 2004 Lexus GX470 2010 Cannondale Caffeine II - Lefty |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
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don't know about the spacers but as far as bolt length, you NEED 2-3 threads sticking out past the flange.
you can get bolts in 5mm lengths and washers from Fastenal.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
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Racer
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 5,885
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You don't really "NEED" 2 to 3 threads sticking out. Any full threads on a bolt that stick out don't help one bit. Yes, it is a good idea to have a couple of threads stick out because you know you have full thread engagement. But having the bolt flush with the end of the bolt hole is just fine.
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Scott Winders PCA GT3 #3 2021 & 2022 PCA GT3 National Champion 2021 & 2022 PCA West Coast Series GT3 Champion |
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That's not a spacer it's part of the boot assembly. The side facing up in your picture is where the gasket goes (hub side or trans. side). The boot has become detached from the back side of the piece pictured.
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Quote:
EMPI, https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/92333203700.htm?pn=923-332-037-00-M84&SVSVSI=804 BAY STATE, https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/861094K.htm?pn=86-1094K-INT&SVSVSI=804 Porsche genuine, https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/92333203700.htm?pn=923-332-037-00-OEM&SVSVSI=804
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1984 911 Carrera Coupe - 32C #73 - M64/05 1998 E36 M3 4dr 2006 Sienna 5dr - the hauler 2004 Lexus GX470 2010 Cannondale Caffeine II - Lefty Last edited by midnight911; 05-26-2018 at 09:47 PM.. |
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Quote:
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Tags |
axle , grease |