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Dbelleperc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
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engine problems

When I start to go the car boggs down and there is absolutly no power but enought when I am going uphill I can creep up, but a few seconds later the power just kicks and I am able to shift into second. On the freeway it does the samething where I will be going 80 and I just feel the car lose power but the RPMs don't fall derasticly but it feels like I am towing a trailor up the hill, and then when I get to the top of the hill the power goes back to almost normal were I can drive freeway speeds. When the power resumes I know it is not at full power, and when I release the gas pedal the engine backfires very very slight. The engine revs up to 4500rpm in neutral but I can tell it is not as responsive as before and lags. Can anyone help. Is it timing, valves, ignition? Thanks in advance.

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Last edited by Dbelleperc; 03-05-2003 at 12:11 AM..
Old 03-04-2003, 10:14 AM
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watch your tach. if the rpm's drop when the engine's dieng out, it's a spark problem. otherwise, it's a fuel problem
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Old 03-04-2003, 10:33 AM
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my car did that sort of thing. I had the timing too advanced and the carbs needed to be adjusted. Im guessing your running a FI. get the fuel system checked out
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Old 03-04-2003, 11:10 AM
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Check your grounds! If you have intermittent grounding you will lose your injectors. just a thought.
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Old 03-04-2003, 02:59 PM
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Any poor wiring connections can cause this... For instance, a bad power supply from the battery to the relay board, a bad fuel pump power wire, a bad connection at the head temp sensor wire... Those are the ones that have bitten me so far!

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Old 03-04-2003, 03:05 PM
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I had a problem very similar to that 5 years ago, mind you this is the L jet system and it was the Resistor pack. Had mechanics pulling there hair out, 1 of the wires inside the pack was broken
just my 2 bits.
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Old 03-04-2003, 04:11 PM
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An easy to overlook ground connection are the ones in your headlight buckets. They can vibrate themselves loose over time and cause the same symptoms as other bad grounds.
Don
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Old 03-04-2003, 04:54 PM
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check power relay and key switch also. interminent stuff sucks.
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Old 03-04-2003, 05:38 PM
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When I disconnect the plug for the #3 fuel injector the engine seems to run at a smother idle, and when I disconnect the #3 spark plug wire from the distributor nothing seems to happen. But when I do it for any other cylinder the engine does run a little ruffer. Any Ideas. Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2003, 02:32 PM
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Are you getting spark when you disconnect the wire? Also, is the #3 fuel injector connected when you disconnect the plug wire? If it is unplugged that would be the reason for nothing happening when you disconnect the plug wire. (No fuel no fire). If it is plugged in and no spark from the dizzy cap to #3 wire it is probably a bad dizzy cap. Check to see if the injector plugs are switched from front to rear. I found it that way on mine on both side of the engine. Once put in the right order it was much better.
good luck
bruce
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Old 03-05-2003, 03:26 PM
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Yes I am gitting spark from #3 plug and yes the plug is in when I disconnect the fuel injector plug.
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Old 03-05-2003, 07:01 PM
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And finally, for the 100th different solution. Check your vacuum advance canister. Take off the dist. cap, take the advance hose off the throttle body, suck on the hose and make sure the plates move, then stick your tounge over the hole and watch to see if the plates slowly (or quickly) move back. A good canister should hold their advanced position all day. I've seen plenty of bad canisters.
Old 03-05-2003, 09:25 PM
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I cant give you anything but my experience. Are yo running FI? If so, does the ECU, MPS CHT all match? I had a badMPS that ran way rich, so as I would pull off it would bog down, but then it would come back and roar off. My TPS was also mis-adjusted. I got a good MPS, made sure all the FI parts matched for my yaer of car, adjusted the TPS and it runs beautiful.

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Old 03-05-2003, 10:10 PM
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