Coil not producing spark

[surfdogskier]

I thought I had a fuel issue but it turns out it is a spark issue. I pulled a couple of plugs to check spark and it was a no on both. Definitely getting fuel to the plugs.

I connected the coil directly to a spark plug wire with plug and still a no. I am getting 12v when the key is on to the positive side of the coil (red, black wire).

Before all of this just died, I drove her some and notice she continued to lose power. I barely made it back home. Then she wouldn't even start. I changed out a condensor on the distributor to see if that would make a difference but no.

So based on this, do I need a new coil? This one is not that old. Less then 2 years. I do know she got a little wet when I was my car and that was when things started to go downhill. I don't know if that was coincidence or what.

I'm trying to figure the proper way to test the coil.

She is a dual carbed.

[mch3jsb]

Alright, back to basics.

1. Verify 12v at coil with a test light while cranking. Clip test light to a good ground, have someone crank engine while touching the test light to the positive side of the coil.

2. Verify ignition points are opening and closing. Clip test light to ground, touch test light to side of coil that the green points wire is attached and have someone crank the engine. The test light should flash/ blink as the points open and close.

2a. If the test light blinks, points are opening and closing. This should result in the field collapsing and the coil creating spark. Most likely need to replace cap, rotor and coil

2b. If the points are open, test light always on while cranking. Then check points, could be film on them, or just worn out. Replace points and condenser.

2c. If points are closed, test light off while cranking. The cam block on the points could be worn enough to not open the point, points could be fused together; condenser shorted or coil shorted. Remove the green points wire from the coil. If the test light is on, replace the points and condenser.

Carbs have nothing to do with a no spark condition. They only make a difference when setting ignition timing.

There are some how to articles on ignition timing, dwell and point gap on Pelican somewhere.

[surfdogskier]

Originally Posted by mch3jsb

Alright, back to basics.

1. Verify 12v at coil with a test light while cranking. Clip test light to a good ground, have someone crank engine while touching the test light to the positive side of the coil.

2. Verify ignition points are opening and closing. Clip test light to ground, touch test light to side of coil that the green points wire is attached and have someone crank the engine. The test light should flash/ blink as the points open and close.

2a. If the test light blinks, points are opening and closing. This should result in the field collapsing and the coil creating spark. Most likely need to replace cap, rotor and coil

2b. If the points are open, test light always on while cranking. Then check points, could be film on them, or just worn out. Replace points and condenser.

2c. If points are closed, test light off while cranking. The cam block on the points could be worn enough to not open the point, points could be fused together; condenser shorted or coil shorted. Remove the green points wire from the coil. If the test light is on, replace the points and condenser.

Carbs have nothing to do with a no spark condition. They only make a difference when setting ignition timing.

There are some how to articles on ignition timing, dwell and point gap on Pelican somewhere.

Purchased a test light on amazon. Waiting for it to come in. Thanks for the list to check. I will post what I find.

[jess p]

The tests you have performed concluded that your coil is toast. I've had great success with the Bosch blue coils. If you have a volt/ohm meter you can further your conclusions by placing one probe in the center of the coil, the second probe on the ground terminal, which should read from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms. Next, place one probe on the + terminal and another on the - terminal. That should give you 1.5 to 2 ohms.

[surfdogskier]

It does look like my coil is toasted. I read less than 6K between center the center of coil and ground. Terminal to terminal is 1.3 ohms. This is relatively a new coil.

I know some water got to the outer section of it when I washed her. I don't have the water tray in the engine area. I don't see how that would do it but I did happen right after this.

I'm going to buy a Blue Bosch coil and see if that will fix my issue.