OK Whats wrong

[ruddyboys]

I just tried adjusting my valves. 1st I have the engine out. I lined up the notch on the impeller for TDC. When I checked the top of the trans opening I didn't see the notch on the fly wheel. Turned the impeller about 2 inches clockwise and the mark showed up in the opeing ontop of the trans. Whent to try adjusting the first clinder and there was no play at all. I loosened up both valev adjusting screws as far as they can go and still no gap. Checked all the cylinders and the same. Stated turning the engine by hand an watched the valves, Everyone seems to be the same no gap even after loosing the screws as far as they can go. What gives. The engine is a 70 1.7 with 96mm pistons.

[bowlsby]

Awright Ruddyboys...I know I've talked to you about your LE before...but I cant make the connection.

Would you be kind enough to send me your VIN and the numbers from the from the plate and rear sticker from the drivers door jamb for the LE website? Thanks again...

The 914 LE website link is listed below...many thanks.

[3D914]

Ruddyboys,

Don't go by the marks on the flywheel, but the marks on the fan (remove the black plastic cap centered on fan housing).

Also, it will be a lot easier if you use the opposing-valve adjustment method vs. the TDC method. Especially with the engine out. If you have a recent copy of the Valve adjustment article, refer to the section added later - it describes the method.

Good luck,

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Uhh, actually I think the flywheel marks are more reliable than the fan marks.

You might verify TDC with the "chopstick in the spark plug hole" trick.

--DD

[3D914]

Dave,

But the flywheel isn't keyed to the shaft, where the fan is - right? It's been a while since I pulled my flywheel off.

[Conrad W Peden]

If I'm not mistaken, and I have been, the notch in the flywheel and the TDC mark on the fan are 180 degrees out. That means if the notch is at the top you got TDC for 2 or 4. Hence the loosening both screws and having no gap...

The fly wheel has a dowel that goes into the crank. The fan hub is keyed to the crank and the fan is doweled to the hub. Ergo both only go on in one orientation.

[ruddyboys]

Thanks for all the the response, but Even turning the engine by hand and watching the valves move (Also tried the chopstick approch) and I still dont have any more adjustment left on the screws and no gap. Did i install the valves wrong? I put the wire retainer in and then the metal spacers than the valves, Torqued to 10lbs. The engine rotates freely, so what damage can I excpect If i try to start it.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The flywheel has five bolts and one dowel, so it is keyed to the crank.

The fan hub has a Woodruff key that keys it to the crank. The fan has three bolts and one dowel, so it is keyed to the fan hub. BUT--the molds for the fan castings themselves are multi-piece, and can evidently go together several ways!!! The TDC mark on my fan does not quite line up with the TDC notch on my flywheel. I asked around and found that it's the fans that seem to vary, not the flywheels.

Regardless, getting within a few degrees of TDC is fine.

Now for Ruddyboys' problem. You took the rocker assemblies off the head, yeah? If so, then there is a reasonable chance that the pushrods have not seated themselves into the lifters when you put it back together again. I found that, on my motor, I have to lift up the inner end of the pushrod to actually get it to seat into the cup in the lifter. If I do not, I run out of adjustment on the valve adjusters before they get in spec!

When the engine is in the car, I poke an L-shaped Allen wrench down the pushrod tube, bottom of the L to the inside. I use the bottom part there as a fulcrum, and push down a little on the outer end of the pushrod. That lets it slide into the lifter cup. Without that, you have about 1/4" longer pushrods, effectively, which eats up all your adjustment room and then some!!

--DD

[ruddyboys]

thanks dave Ill check that this weekend