Under car need fast answer

1bad914 · 06-26-2003, 09:28 AM

I'm under my car trying to snoop out an oil leak, is there a rubber o-ring underneath the fan hub. I took apart a 1.8 and found one there but did not remember taking one off of my 2.0 It was between the fan hub and the end of the crank, should I have one in a 2.0 with stock crank. Need answer fast since I'm under the car now!

Thanks,

Randy
OBTW Alternator problem was a thrown belt!

jamcleod · jamcleod's Garage

my parts diagram shows one (something that looks like one). i'll search for a link with an exploded view.

jamcleod · jamcleod's Garage

go to: http://www.mittelmotor.de/english/startenglish.htm

and down to .122 cooling

jamcleod · jamcleod's Garage

AA is good for something.....

http://***********.com/model/914catalog/914engine12.html

jamcleod · jamcleod's Garage

sorry, on the mittlemotor site you have to go to the 914 catalog

maybe this will do it:

http://mittlemotor.de/webshop/englisch/914/0-1-2-2-122.asp

Amark · 06-26-2003, 10:38 AM

abcd

1bad914 · 06-26-2003, 11:12 AM

Darn, I thought so, since the motor is in, any idea how to pull it. I can't get my puller in there! I'm such a dumba$$! I've only built a jillion Type I motors, first Type IV. Oh well, if I can't get it out it stays that way until winter! I'm not pulling the motor for that! It did not look like it had leaked at all. The leak came from the Type I oil pum[p I had on it. I pulled it and put a nice stock type IV. The Type I never seemed to fit right!

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

The O-ring is on the inside of the hub, which is why you missed it...

You can pull the hub with the engine in the car. It's an annoying job, though.

1: Remove the front engine tin pieces. (Curse at the German engineer who used slot-head screws for the engine tin.)
2: Loosen the alternator and remove the belt.
3: Remove the nut in the center of the hub.
4: Remove the three fan bolts. (You may need your CV Joint tool for this.)
5: Wiggle the fan until you can pull it out of the shroud; drop it down to get it out of the engine bay. (That's why you removed the engine tin.)6: Put three "church keys" or very large washer(s) behind the fan hub where the ends of the fan bolts would go. This is to distribute the loads imposed by the ends of the bolts. Install the bolts snug enough to hold the washers/church keys in place.
7: Tighten the fan bolts 1/4 turn at a time. This should be little enough to keep the washers from slipping out (tape them in place if you need to) and will pull the hub off the nose of the crank.
8: Search for that ****ing Woodruff key that fell into the fan shroud.

...Installation is a similar process, but you don't have to use the bolts to put the hub back on. You do, however, have to mess with the Woodruff key for a while... More curse words help, I think.

--DD

1bad914 · 06-26-2003, 03:54 PM

I got it off and replaced the o-ring, plus I replaced the oil pump with a stock unit after I leveled the mating surfaces again! Put everything back together and fired it up, it was leak free for 15-20 minutes then I shut the car down and started cleaning up. Looked under and holy crap batman, the leak is back. After I threw out a couple of choice words I started chasing it down. It was coming from the area below the oil cooler and the oil pressure gauge. I wiped everything down and fired it again, waited a tick and crawled under it, could see no drip just a slow drool over the edge of the sump, cleaned and ran the process again, this time it looked as if it was coming from the small case bolt just above the right front corner of the sump, I said no way but grabbed a wrench and sure enough it was loose. I know for a fact that it was tight becuse I triple check all case bolts. Has anyone has this bolt loosed? Once I torques it down the leak stopped and I think I have successfully stoped the beast from marking it's territory!