Six Conversion Picts

John Rogers · 08-11-2003, 06:47 PM

Here are some picts as we get the six conversion in place. Note the suspension braces and firewall engine mount from Patrick's shop in Phoenix. The hole in the trunk is where the dry sump tank is going but I wanted to get pictures of the braces that mount it. The suction line you see going under the oil cooler is dash-16 and others are dash-12. I made the shift rod for the rear and the coupler is from Stomski Racing in MD.

John Rogers · 08-11-2003, 06:49 PM

Here's some more.

John Rogers · 08-11-2003, 06:50 PM

And a few more.

scg · 08-11-2003, 08:46 PM

That's one heck of a shift rod...and connector!!

campbellcj · 08-11-2003, 09:01 PM

Hey John - what engine did you go with?

The oil cooler and engine mount/reinforcement setups look interesting. Keep us posted how they work out! Honestly I've heard stories of the Patrick bulkhead mount failing -- hopefully you won't have any issues with that.

John Rogers · 08-12-2003, 05:27 AM

The mount that had problems was a center mount type and not the new one. These are used by a lot of the 2 liter vintage cars on the west coast, especially if they have an engine transplant. The shift linkage has NO free play and I haven't even put in the RennShift yet!!!

Brant · 08-12-2003, 09:51 AM

Yeah...

It is also my understanding that the patrick mount with problems is the engine bar type.

I have the bulkhead type unmounted at this point, but know of a half dozen cars running the bulkhead mount in racing conditions (locally) with no problems.

one of the big advantages is lowering then engine part way for valve adjustments etc...

brant

mike mueller · 08-12-2003, 10:09 AM

Looks good.............you better pray that the CV on the drivers side never breaks, you'll be soaked in oil when the axle hits the oil tank

I do like the location since it lowers the CG

John Rogers · 08-12-2003, 12:22 PM

Thanks Mike, I had thought about that issue especially since my daughter had a CV joint come undone while getting off the feeway a couple of weeks ago. On the race car we use longer bolts and a nut on the back to prevent this (hopefully) but the joint could still fail and we have been looking at a loop or some other method to keep a flailing axle in place. So far our best idea is to do careful maintenance on then yearly and say a prayer!!??

campbellcj · 08-12-2003, 05:29 PM

John, is this a 2.0 for the HSR class, or something bigger?

John Rogers · 08-12-2003, 07:57 PM

Chris it is a 2.0 liter that was built up for a guy last year that was going to do some vintage racing but he decided that was too tame after one event so he has a POC/PCA GT-2 car as far as I know?? It was dyno'd at 190 HP at the rear wheels at 7600 RPM so it should be a blast to drive. My four had almost the same exact HP but at a much lower RPM, 4800!! My main concern is the 5th gear in the tranny while an X it still might be a little too high as my top speed I ever got at Willows was at about 6200 with the stroker four!!?? I might be able to pull it since I have not been close to the limits of the slicks yet so this will be a big test come Sept at Button Willow.

campbellcj · 08-12-2003, 10:19 PM

Wow, it sure will take some getting used to that engine compared to your big thumper -4!

I have experienced a similar learning curve lately, but not as dramatic, going from a 2.4/four that pulled from about 2K-5K to a 2.2/six that is virtually "dead" under 4K but pulls well up over 6K (limiter is set at 7200).

I recall we had a thread about the gearing earlier; I had a hard time fighting the aero and mechanical drag in the stock -4 ZD 5th to get up in the powerband (>5K rpm's). Seems like you're right that even with the X 5th you might be dropping under 5000 on the upshift - below peak power so on the front straight it will be tough to pick up much speed.

Keep us posted how it does on the track!

URY914 · URY914's Garage

John,
Are the black rods going to the motor mounts connect to the inside trailering arm ears?

can you post a pic of the ear, please?

Paul

M. Hendrix · 08-13-2003, 07:39 PM

Hell yes you need to cage the axle!

I have had one go out @ around 110, and it destroyed the whole shootin' match.

M

John Rogers · 08-14-2003, 05:28 AM

Paul, if you look at the top picture, just to the left of the blue AN fitting you can see a piece of metal pointing down and the nuts that attach the brace to the rear console. I didn't take a side on shot of it and I can the next time I can get under the car. It is a piece of 1/8 inch steel that is the width of the inside of the suspension mount and has been cut out to allow clearance for the inner shaft nut and washer. The brace really reduces flex loads on the inner suspension especiall when you race with slicks.

URY914 · URY914's Garage

John,
Sorry to keep asking questions about this but I'm going to be doing something back there and need to be enlightened.

The brace is bolted to the bracket on the control arm. How is the bracket attached to the control arm? Welded, with a cutout for the big shaft nut?

Thanks

Paul

Dave Bell · 08-14-2003, 05:25 PM

What URy914 asked.... more info on those braces please... how, where and why... custom?

Thanks John

SteveStromberg · 08-14-2003, 07:27 PM

Chris I saw Otto building your new gearbox today.She will be running sweet in no time. Steve

John Rogers · 08-14-2003, 07:43 PM

The bracket part that goes on the suspension console is made from a piece of 5 or 6 inch wide steel and is cut at the top to clear the pivot shaft nut and washer. The bottom is rounded, just to look nice and is welded to the inner console portion. The bushings would have to be removed if you were doing the welding. The shaft is a piece of 3/4 inch thinwall 4140 tube with a nut welded on each end. At the front there is the bolt welded to a small place that is welded to the firewall. In the rear I bought a heim joint and use it with lock nuts to hold everything tight. This braces the inner suspension console from flexing fore-aft so it will take the loads of the slicks. I think the first one I saw was done by a fabricator named Charlie Wallace in san Diego but others have done them probably. Here's a shot and I'll try to get a couple of better ones.

maf 914 · 08-15-2003, 05:05 AM

John,

Thanks for the pics and explanation of the trailing arm braces. Good idea.

Next question please, concerning the shift linkage. Is the orange flex joint at the fire wall a significant improvement over the stock 914 universal joint (with good bushings)? I've seen these advertised but never seen one up close. Are they difficult to install?

Mike