crankshaft axial float

turbo2.0 · 12-03-1999, 08:08 AM

I need some help on this one. I'n ready to put my 2.0 back together after my heads are done and I get new rings. I checked my crankshaft last night and it's got .008" float. My repair manual calls for .002" to .005" (rounded off). How bad is it? All the rest of the checks I have done indicate no problems with bearings. Before I took it apart it sounded great and had plenty of oil pressure.can I get away with it for a year? Next winter I plan on doing some major changed to this engine, but It's not really in the budget to split the cases right now. I know if I take it apart any more I will want to spend even more than I can afford and I'm itching to get it back on the road. My wife already said my motorcycle has to go. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Tim Polzin · 12-03-1999, 08:50 AM

The "float" should be adjustable by using combinations of different thickness shims in back of the flywheel. I think both Haynes and Tom Wilson describe the process. You will need to do the measurements and adjustments with the flywheel seal off.

turbo2.0 · 12-03-1999, 09:03 AM

OOPS! I need to keep reminding myself that this is not an american v-8 engine. I assumed that the thrust was set by the bearing clearance between the crank throws. I think I'll sit down tonight and read my Haynes manual a little more closely. Thanks for being tactful and not making me look a complete fool.
Is this a great board or what?

JP Noonan · 12-03-1999, 06:01 PM

Also I think you MUST use THREE shims when setting the "crankshaft end play" (BTW don't feel too bad. My first 914 valve adjustment, I set them in the order I always did with my 351W FORD. You know, when the exh is on it's way back up set the intake, etc...I'm just glad I knew enough to set them like solid lifters instead of hydralic). The reason is the three shims act as a (Thorington???) type of bearing. The two outside shims don't move, only the inside one does, or something to that effect. I'm pretty sure that's how it is.

If there isn't enough to get three shims in there and have the correct end-play then most likely the crank has been re-ground and the fillet radius was set too gradual. In your case the radius probably allready ground down the edges of the bearings anyway. Just thought I'd scare you anyway.

BTW Tom Wilson's book is WAY better than Haynes for engine building.

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

*DO* set that end-play correctly--PLEASE!!!

Someone didn't on my motor. One day I noticed that the whole crank assembly slopped quite a bit fore-and-aft when I rotated it. About a sixteenth of an inch, actually. Yeah, 60+/1000s of an inch.

The #1 (I think it is) bearing had one of the thrust surfaces worn away until it was tinfoil. The crank bores were out of round and banged around. Happily I caught it before the crank got too banged up and the case was completely ruined. But I did have to have it align-bored and oversized bearings installed. Ick--those are not cheap, and take a while to find...

--DD

Tim Polzin · 12-03-1999, 07:43 PM

I just checked Tom Wilson and JP is right on the money, 3 shims. Also he quotes .003 to .005 in. end play with a .006 wear limit.

halbl · 12-05-1999, 09:00 AM

JP, Dave: I found a 1981 Chilton's about VW's but it has a section on the type IV rebuild. How does it compart to Haynes, Wilson, etc. Have'nt heard it mentioned before. Hal

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

No idea; never seen it. However, if other Chilton's manuals are representative, then the book is most useful for mopping up oil spills. The other guides of theirs that I have read were really awful.

I haven't rebuilt a 914 motor, let alone doing one just using Haynes. However, if you are going through the process of the rebuild yourself, it is a false economy not to get the Wilson and Haynes books. The Wilson isn't much more than $20 (I think!) and Haynes is about $15. Much less than the cost of a piston and cylinder kit...

--DD

Conrad W Peden · Conrad W Peden's Garage

You know guys this is just great!
I've just finished putting together my 2.0L its sitting on the stand in front of me, with the Flywheel torqued on. And I can't remember how many shims I put in! Are you guys sure it needs 3?
There is only 4 thou end play according to my dial indicator.

Oh well, I guess I can always get another one of those thin washer thingies and check.

Thanks ;^(