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mejulihn's Avatar
 
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Removing the Dizzy

I need to take out my stock distributor to install a Crane-Allison optical ignition. This appears necessary in order to remove the condenser and male connector for the stock points prior to installation of the Crane ignition. Anyone have some practical tech tips? Thanks in advance.
Old 12-15-1999, 10:16 AM
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for what it's worth, i took my points and condensor off with the dizzy still in the car.. just had to do some creative manipulation of small rachet and a socket holding a flathead bit. So, it CAN be done, but might be more trouble than just pulling the dizzy. Others will ring in with tips, but some general things that i've been told is to mark clearly the orientation of the dizzy to the engine, and clean out the area around the dizzy well, as crap tends to fall in the hole when you pull it out.

good luck..

Jeff
Old 12-15-1999, 10:56 AM
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When I have to pull ours I spray the immediate area with electrical cleaner to remove dirt and such (it evaporates well) and I either take a digital picture of where the rotor is sitting or make a drawing that shows it and then remove it. I immediately plug the hole with a shop rag to keep stuff out and the make sure I remove it when installing it. I usually put a little synthetic grease on the o-ring seal area to prevent oil leakage on reinstallation. It is much easier to work on it out of the car and you can check the advance weights, etc to make sure everything is clean and free. Good luck.
Old 12-15-1999, 12:33 PM
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Just a quick comment to this thread. Remove the distributer using the nut that fastens the clamp to the case (13 mm head I think), do not loosen the clamp (10 mm head). If you look at the slot arrangement that drives the distributer, you'll see it only goes in one way.
Old 12-15-1999, 12:56 PM
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I've never understood that advice, actually. I can't even get to the nut that holds the distributor clamp onto the case, unless I rotate the distributor first.

That said, that is how I always remove the distributor--by loosening that long 10mm nut, rotating the dizzy so I can get a wrench or socket on the clamp mounting nut, and removing the dizzy and clamp together. I am told that you are less likely to chew up the O-ring that way.

I agree with everything else everyone has said. Clean up the area as best you can, and have a magnet on hand to get the nut and washer that you remove--half the time they seem to want to dive down behind the distributor body. Stuff the rag in right away--or use a paper towel.

--DD
Old 12-15-1999, 07:21 PM
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Granted it is much easier with a "stubby" 13mm combo wrench, but I've done it on my 2.0L (1.7L may be more difficult) with a standard length wrench. Loosen it up, then with the finger tips of both hands unscrew the nut the rest of the way. Remove the nut and wavey washer. Clean. Pull the dizzy out.

Reason I go through all this hoobaby-jub bussiness? This way I don't need to be on DTC, I don't have to worry about lining things up (the offset lines things up for me), and when I re-install I don't need to re-time the motor. Although there is some play, I always turn the distributor to the right (or left, if you prefer) until this "play" is taken up and re-tighten the 13mm nut. Checking the timing is, of course, a good idea (especially if you are replacing the points), but the motor will at least be very close.

I see your point though DD. If you are pulling the dizzy, generally it is for some reason (i.e. new points) that wil require a timing adjustment when it is re-installed. In my case I'm usally pulling it to get at the tin-ware, the oil sender, the....
Old 12-15-1999, 09:39 PM
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The discussion started about the Crane Allison unit, so on that direction I have another question.

Where is the best place to mount the box for the ignition unit? I really don't want to drill any holes anywhere and am constrained by the length of the wires on the box. I want a really clean-looking installation.

I am toying with the idea of making bracket to mount the box to, which would then mount to the coil mounting bolts.

Any better thoughts?
Old 12-16-1999, 07:09 AM
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I am looking at mounting the Crane module above the battery on the right side wall of the engine bay if the wires will reach the dizzy and coil. This will keep it protected from the elements and excessive heat. It will require drilling holes that I will touch up with paint to prevent corrosion. You may also want to think about making a metal bracket that spans between the two mounting bolts on the back of the EFI "brain box" that should be mounted on the firewall (if you have stock FI). You could then attach the Crane unit to the metal bracket. The only holes you would have to drill would be in the new bracket itself (I probably don't have to say this but DO NOT drill into the EFI unit itself). The mounts for the EFI module should also give you a ground that is required for the Crane.
Old 12-16-1999, 01:06 PM
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I mounted the coil in the engine compartment under the trunk springs because the coil wire should not be too long. The rest was put in the trunk out of the way under the front of the targa top bracket. Crane recommends putting it in the cabin or someplace out of the weather. I have seen one behind the passenger seat. Hal

[This message has been edited by halbl (edited 12-17-1999).]
Old 12-17-1999, 02:14 AM
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I removed the dizzy today and installed the Crane. Very straight-forward and pretty easy. I now agree with Brian K. that the best location for the Crane module is on the rear wall of the engine bay on the right side. It takes most of the slack out of the wiring harness that goes forward to the coil and distributor, and is well protected from damage. By the way, I now enjoy a smoother running engine and improved acceleration, so I am really pleased. And no gunk ended up in the dizzy hole! Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.
Old 12-18-1999, 01:54 PM
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