Preparing a 914 for Autocross in SCCA CSP

[DuckRyder]

Preparing a 914 for Autocross in SCCA – read much on search.

Afternoon board.

I’m hoping to have my 914 running and ready to go for the first autocross next year.

Due to my heat exchanger swap and lack of an air pump I’m going to be forced to run in CSP (C Street Prepared) where I can do quite a bit to the suspension short of metal bushings. (I will probably have a better chance here than in Miata stock anyway)

Anyway, keeping in mind that I want the car to be legal in class and it remains a street driven car how does this plan sound.

Long block rebuilt (bottom end stuff is on order from Pelican, heads are at Rimco) to stock specifications.

Weltmeister front and rear bars in place of stock (which size?)
Weltmeister springs (140 lb?)
Weltmeister torsion bars, hollow (size?)
Weltmeister camber plates.
Weltmeister poly bushings front and rear.
Bilstein’s

Stainless brake lines
Hawk HPS front pads
? Rear pads.

205/50/15 Hoosier A3S03
Factory 2.0 wheels (I have 10 of ‘em)

How bad is the massacre going to be? (I have run in the past and could place in the top 3 in class in DSP in a 318iS)

Did I miss anything?

[J P Stein]

Do you wanna scare the Miatas or just have fun? Serious CSP Miatas are hard to scare.

[DuckRyder]

True JP, I'm not out to win a national or even a divisional, but I'd rather not be dead last EVERY time.

Locally, CSP is a smaller class, most of the Miatas go from CS to SM(2?)

So I guess to answer your question is, Have some fun.

[Tom Perso]

I auto-x my 63 Bug (on a IRS chassis) with the 2270 that is now in the 914. I was in SM class and I got creamed.

However, I was about the hit at the show since everyone thought it was the greatest to see that old bug sliding around, lifting the inside front wheel (not condusive for making turns, but quite the crowd-pleaser).

I had a blast.

I'll have a bigger blast in the 914, however... :P

Tom

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

If you're up against any serious Miatae or even CRXes or 80s-vintage Civics, you're hosed. See if you can fight for "Best of the Rest".

Other stuff you've left off the list:
Overbore by 0.5mm is legal. Arguably. Maybe even by 1mm...
Headers. Tangerine Racing for the best results, Kerry Hunter for the more budget-conscious.
Mix-and-match engine parts to get everything balanced as well as you can. I don't think you're allowed to take weight off to balance, but I'm not sure on that.
Oversize throttle body with cold-air intake and free-flow K&N style filter.
Tweak the FI to deal with the above changes.
7"x14" custom ultralight wheels, with 245-width Hoosiers. (I think that was the size.) Yes, you'll need flares.
22mm front torsion bars
200+ lb rear springs
22mm front sway bar
Limited slip differential (if legal, it might not be!) and small rear sway bar (if you can have the LSD).
Lighten everything you can.

Possibly a roll cage or bar to help stiffen up the chassis. Always run with the roof to help cut down a bit on the chassis flex.

As you can see, getting "serious" about Street-Prepared gets kinda crazy in a hurry...

--DD

[John Rogers]

Do you have a copy of the rule book? If not I'd get one since the SCCA is "if it doesn't say you can do it, you can't". Can you mod the tranny such as close ratio gears, smaller ring/pinion or limited slip? If so do it as that will have a huge effect on time. If you can use spacers, try them so the car will be wider and corner better. Remove the front side marker lights so those slalom cones will not rip them off. Remove as much stuff as possible under the rules, I.E. less weight is faster. If you can use a roll cage, use one since the car is much stiffer with it. If you can use camber plates in front, use them for better alignment. Also solid top strut mounts would help if legal? If you can get a shift light so you do not have to watch the tach and can watch the course. Finally get a good alignment and corner balance for best handling. Good luck.

[DuckRyder]

I do have a rule book.

Limited slip is legal. (Where would one get that for a 914 tranny)

Balanceing is legal, with the provision that it cannot be lightened.

Maximum overbore is 1.2mm (gross, no alowance wor wear)

Headers and carbs are legal (but my street car requirement means it keeps heat and FI) the internal engine must remain stock for all practical purposes.

Flares are legal, but this is too straight a car to cut for flares.

Camber plates are legal, so add the Weltmeister ones.

[John Rogers]

For a limited slip I'd use one of the "GT" which feels a litle better than the Quaiff. How about gear ratios?

[DuckRyder]

If I am reading right, the ring and pinion and the ratios cannot be changed.

[M. Hendrix]

R&P, 2 choices, ratios can be changed. Legal in your class?


M

[DuckRyder]

Originally posted by M. Hendrix
R&P, 2 choices, ratios can be changed. Legal in your class?

Can't be changed in CSP. The trans has to be a 914-4 trans. It can only be updated or back dated as an ASSY. Shift linkage is free as long as it is mechanical, and the clutch is free as long as it uses the factory crankshaft holes.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Originally posted by DuckRyder
Headers and carbs are legal (but my street car requirement means it keeps heat and FI) the internal engine must remain stock for all practical purposes.

Flares are legal, but this is too straight a car to cut for flares.

With skinny tires and the stock exhaust, you have just about completely taken yourself out of contention in CSP. I would suggest that you forget the rules, build the car you want, and run it in whatever class it falls into. You'll still have a whole ton of fun!

--DD

[DuckRyder]

Originally posted by Dave at Pelican Parts
With skinny tires and the stock exhaust, you have just about completely taken yourself out of contention in CSP. I would suggest that you forget the rules, build the car you want, and run it in whatever class it falls into. You'll still have a whole ton of fun!

--DD

That is pretty much CSP since I am not going to put Air injection and 75 heat exchangers back on it, stock is out.

I would like to do what I can to optimize it within SCCA rules and my personal rules. (HEAT, FI, and no cutting it up for flares)

I might consider the header later on..........................Maybe

[John Kelly]

Hi Robert,

You are probably not interested...but you don't have to cut for flares, and you don't have to weld, or use fiberglass:

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980138836765

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[sean_V8_914]

John, I really like that look. Did you do that? Is this difficult to learn? (metal stretching)

[J P Stein]

The way John does it takes time....and talent.
For the rest of us there's this. .........

Just a hammer & dolly. The guts (stupidity?) to booger up a good paint job helps.

[DuckRyder]

John and JP, both very good looking cars.

John is clearly and artist.

[M. Hendrix]

Originally posted by DuckRyder
John and JP, both very good looking cars.

John is clearly and artist.

...and JP's a cheap bastard.



PAINT PLEASE


M

[DuckRyder]

Would now be a good time to mention that un topcoated primer absorbs water, and water and steel make...........................

But it is still a good looking car..................

[J P Stein]

Paint? I'm a good paint job away from having 30K into this ****box and you ain't seen nothin' yet. Tomorrow I go get some doors....primered, of course. Them shinny ones are too heavy
Maybe I'll do em' in red lead for contrast.

Ah, the censor strikes.......