Setting the distributor

[415pb]

I've recently just finished doing a full rebuild on my 2.0 D-Jet. When putting the cam to the crank, I made sure I set it in with the dot on the cam, in between the two dots on the crank. The problem I am having is when I line up the TDC mark on the fan, the distributor rotor is not pointing to the TDC line on the distributor housing. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Thanks,
Rod

[Zeke]

You didn't install the distributor drive gear indexed in the opimum position. If you can remove and install the distributor so that the rotor points to the notch, well and good. If not, rearrange the wires on the cap. It will just throw the next guy off, but it will work fine.

Or you can tip the motor over and fish out the drive gear (and washer) and reindex it. Or..........., you can use your dizzy drive extractor (We all have these, right? ) and extract the drive as long as you remembered to apply grease to the washer so it comes out at the same time.

You want to know how I know this? He he. Yes my dizzy runs with the wires rearranged.

[415pb]

Zeke, thank you very much....especially for all the options to rectify the problem. I will give em all a try.......

Thanks again,
Rod

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Or you could twist the distributor body itself so that the rotor points to the notch when the #1 cylinder is at TDC.

You have verified that it's the #1 cylinder that is at TDC, right? The marks on the fan/flywheel will line up twice in one complete cycle of the motor. Once at TDC#1, and once at TDC #3.

--DD

[Zeke]

Dave and Rod, you can twist the dizzy unless you have an interferrence problem with say the vacuum pot hitting the sheet metal. You didn't say what dizzy was in there.

[415pb]

The flywheel's mark is at the top and the fan mark is at TDC. I believe this means I'm at TDC for cylinder number 1....right? I think the vacuum pot will clear everything if I turn the dizzy........

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Nope. The flywheel and fan marks are the same (or should be in theory!). They line up when you're at TDC #1 and also when you're at TDC #3. (Remember, the crank goes around twice for each full cycle of the engine--the piston has to go up and down twice for a full four-stroke cycle.)

Check the valves. Both of the rocker arms on #1 should have slack in them if you're at TDC #1. If they don't, then check #3. They will likely both be slack. Rotate the crank around one more time and then you should get to TDC #1.

--DD

[415pb]

Thanks Dave....I just checked the rockers. Both valves on number 1 have slack. The number 3 rockers are tight and wont budge. So I am at TDC for number 1. The rotor is pointing just left of the red mark in the pic, which indicates my TDC on my dizzy. Should I loosen the hold down clamp and twist the distributor body or should I take the entire distributor out and adjust from there?

Thanks,
Rod

[yoh!!!]

I use a bosch dizzy with hall sensor (from a water cooled 80's vanagon) on my 2.0l carbed 914. Due to clearance problems I had to turn the dizzy body 90* and move the cables one position further. Works very well. The mark on the body is more or less a hint for a basic - non dynamic setting. You could make your own mark.

Patrick

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Looks close to me! The red mark is indeed pointing toward the left-front of the car, which is about where it should be.

If the picture above was taken with the engine at TDC #1, then you have a problem. Because the vacuum dashpot will hit something if you twist the distributor to the right place...

If that is the case, then I suggest removing the distributor. Then look down the hole and look at the notch in the distributor driveshaft. It should be pointing about 12 degrees to the left (I think; it could be 12 to the right) of straight fore-and-aft at TDC #1. (You can be approximate on this one, you mostly don't want the dashpot to hit anything when you're trying to adjust the timing.) There's a pic in the Haynes manual with this orientation.

If you need to adjust it, pull the spring inside the hole in the driveshaft out, then reach in with some needle-nose snap-ring pliers and pull and twist to get the shaft out. Turn it to where you want it, then "un-twist" it by the amount you had to twist it when you took it out. Then slide it back down in again. Hopefully the washer on the end stayed in place....

It would be easier to remove the driveshaft altogether and look for the washer to make sure it's on the end of the driveshaft, or in place at the bottom of the hole. Then re-install with it pointing the correct orientation.

If the washer falls into the hole, you will have to get it back out again. Not a fun process....

--DD

[415pb]

Dave I took out the distributor drive shaft and re-alligned it correctly. Problem is, I have been trying to set the dizzy in the slots of the shaft and the darn thing wont go into the shaft slots. I am lining the dizzy up and I have been trying for hours. Any advice?

Thanks

[D7N7MASTER]

I'm gonna guess that it's 180 deg. off. Yes?

[415pb]

Meaning, turn the flywheel another 180 degrees??

[415pb]

K, I finally got it set in there.......thanks for all the help guys....

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Actually, he meant the rotor, not the flywheel. (For future reference, since you said you figured it out.)

--DD