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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lomita, CA
Posts: 2
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Type IV rebuilding Questions
Hi all
I am rebuilding a Type IV engine for a '73 914 and have three questions 1. How do you clock the the distributor drive gear in relation to the crank? 2. What is the dimension and the torque spec of the bolt that holds the oil pick up? 3. What is the best method to seal the through bolts, washers & nuts? Thank you, GE |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Aircooled Heaven
Posts: 1,054
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do you have my video??
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Jake Raby Owner, Raby's Aircooled Technology www.aircooledtechnology.com www.massivetype4.com |
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yes, you should see Jakes video. he didn't include addressing deck height on the video though
![]() 1) one way to time gear to crank is to bring engine to TDC (when all assembled), then slot in gear is arranged to be 12 degrees WRT case seam. 2) IMPORTANT! the oil pickup bolt torque is about 9.4 ft-lbs!overtorquing this bolt could ruin case. 3) i have used permatex ### (#escapes me this am, no coffee). hopefully, others will chime in with the best.
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73 914 restoration project 73 914 2.0 CIS #80 74 914 1.8L L-jet 83 911SC |
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Administrator
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The drive gear goes on the crank in precisely one orientation. There's a Woodruff key (half-moon shaped piece of metal) that locks them together, and there is only one slot for it on the crank and one on the gear. Ditto the drive gear for the cam.
The through-bolt gets 14.5 lb-ft of torque. The odd-shaped nut (looks like a bolt) that holds the sump onto the bottom of the crankcase gets 9.4 lb-ft, as noted. --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lomita, CA
Posts: 2
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Jake
I want to buy a DVD version of your video. GE |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Aircooled Heaven
Posts: 1,054
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I'm not selling any DVDs... The DVDs are having problems being compatible with all players.
I can sell you a VHS if you email info@aircooledtechnology.com
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Jake Raby Owner, Raby's Aircooled Technology www.aircooledtechnology.com www.massivetype4.com |
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oops, showing my ignorance again.
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73 914 restoration project 73 914 2.0 CIS #80 74 914 1.8L L-jet 83 911SC |
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grind weld build
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I enjoyed Jakes video
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flesh heals, memories last forever! 73 Orange, CS #601 73 Rayco V8 glug, glug 69 911 w/82 turbo look on 275 35 18s (for sale) Trek 6500+ Sean M! |
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If you have any questions just send me a e-mail I will assist you. Steve
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Yamabond is the stuff.
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1987 924S White -daily driver w/86k miles almost stock- 1971 914 Red -doesn't see road much- |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central Washington
Posts: 527
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The ultimate answer to question #1:
It doesn't matter how the distributor drive gear is clocked to the crank gear IF, IF...you have an 050 (or other centrifugal advance distributor AND pointless ignition. No vacuum canister and no condensor to stop from spinning the dizzy all around. It's nice to know when you buy a car that's timed on #3 because the drive gear all outta wack! You got the other answers. But I use CURIL on about everything, if it's REAL tough (valve covers) use the yellow permatex weatherstrip adhesive but that stuff is murder...it'll seal about anything but its straight from hell to deal with. Bob O
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If it aint broke.. ... ... .fix it anyway. |
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