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3 engines
I recently bought a 914 rolling chassis that came with 3 engines. A 1.7 longblock, 1.8 short and a 2.0. I know some of you have mixed parts from these so my question is which one should I rebuild and with what parts?
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: san diego,ca.usa
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The 2 liter for sure! Sell the other 2 for money towads the 2 liter.
Just my 2 bits. Mike |
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Quote:
I agree!!!
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'72, now with a living, breathing 2056... |
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What are your goals for the motor? Cheap rebuild? Go for the 1.8, unless the 1.7 is in better condition. More money and power, but still in a very mild state of tune? The 2.0, stock. If you're going to build a Big Four, then use whichever crankcase is in the best condition, and either the 2.0 heads or if those are in really bad shape the 1.8 heads. You'd be getting a different crank/rods/pistons/cylinders to make a Big Four, so it doesn't matter which of those was originally in your "base" engine.
Therea are lots of options, particularly if you want to mix and match pieces. --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 183
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Andrew, I can't remember what the best set up is but you're right to ask. It's something like - the 1.7 crank (or bottom end) with 2.0 heads or maybe it's the other way around, for quicker reving engine, higher compression or greater HP. Heck I can't even remeber what the advantage is but I got the info from Rich Johnson back when I had my 1.7L (in the mid '90s). I've been wondering what that recommendation was lately also, so hopefully someone with more knowledge will speak up and help us out.
Doug |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, VA
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What goals do you have for reliability and performance? That's the real question...
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Jason Porter - 888-280-7799 ext 233 - jason@pelicanparts.com 1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 - 454TBI, 4x4, 8 gallons/mile |
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Just build the 2.0. They had by far the most horsepower stock, and the parts aren't that much more. THey also had a few improvements in my opinion, like the soidum filled valves, and beefier connecting rods. If I remember right, I think they had bigger journals too, for the rods. But I might be wrong there.
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they also had heads that crack easily, that's the bad part to the 2.0... and it was 15hp more than the 1.7... I don't know if that is *FAR* more hp,
![]() sources: http://tunacan.net/t4/tour/conrods.htm http://tunacan.net/t4/index.shtml
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'72, now with a living, breathing 2056... |
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I would call 20 percent a far cry more. I was just looking at pictures for the rods, and they appeared bigger. When I rebuilt my 2.0 they looked huge for a rod. I wasn't sure on the journals.
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, VA
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If you want to save money, and get more "bang for the buck", I'd build a 2056. This way you can use all of your 2.0 components, except for the P/C's, which you were probably gonna build anyways.
The nice thing about a 2056 is that it's got a little more juice, and it's versatile. You can use the stock D-jet injection with stock cam, and do a few adjustments. OOORR... You can go with an aggressive cam, carbs, a Mallory distributor, and make around 130 HP. Now wouldn't that be fun ![]()
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Jason Porter - 888-280-7799 ext 233 - jason@pelicanparts.com 1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 - 454TBI, 4x4, 8 gallons/mile |
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you CAN use Djet on a 2056, but I thought it would run kinda lean?! to do it right(definately to get 130hp) I think carbs are a MUST! a 2056 would be a smart move if you have to change a piston or even rings, get your stock cylinders honed out, don't use after market cylinders(unless you want nickies $$$) when you start doing this kind of stuff though... the $$$ adds up quick, an aggro cam, ceramic lifters, etc... headwork alone can cost $1000+
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'72, now with a living, breathing 2056... |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, VA
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I've got 5500 in my engine, and I'd say my 1911 puts out around 120 HP. I'll let ya'll know for sure after I get it dynoed.
There are people on this board using D-0jet with a 2056, no problems. Personally, I like the carbs, or a custom injection system. I don't like D-jet, but that's subjective. I'd donate it to someone who cares, and go with a more aggressive cam and some carbs. BTW, you don't have to go with ceramic lifters to have reliability. I'm using hardenable grey iron lifters, recommended by someone who hasn't had a problem with them. Cost is a very open topic discussion alone, depending on how anal you are. I went absolutely nuts, and only spent 5500 bucks. I could have probably built the same engine for 3000 bucks, but my neurotic tendencies would have me worrying about being stranded all the time, or a massive type 4 failure, especially considering the way I drive.$$$$$$$$$. Headwork shouldn't be costing $1000 for a 2056 staying on the street. Not if you go to pro's who do type 4's all the time, and are set up for them. Peolple who already know what work, don't have to bill you for time spent figuring things out.
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Jason Porter - 888-280-7799 ext 233 - jason@pelicanparts.com 1989 Chevy Silverado 3500 - 454TBI, 4x4, 8 gallons/mile |
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the $1000 for heads I was figureing was headflowmasters, including opening up the exhaust port some... but the price may have been exaggerated... I'm sure you could do it for 1/2 that from RIMCO... but I don't know about getting the 130hp out of it... which is what I was trying to say... if you want 130hp+ it will take some cheddar
![]() I know you can do things cheap, but I'm one of the anal types, if I'm going to do it, I want everything the best that is reasonable... I never want to have to say "I wish I would have spent more on that..." because it broke :| I would do ceramic lifters, they aren't THAT much more expensive... esp if they will save you an engine! I've thought about going to Djet... I never had the option, all my cars have come with carbs already... but I don't know... I'm afraid it would run lean still... anyone done it here with a stock cam 2056 and 8.9:1 CR? send me a PM jason if you do decide to get rid of a whole Djet setup... you gots ME thinking now, and that's dangerous! ![]()
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'72, now with a living, breathing 2056... |
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I have a 2056, D-jet, a mild cam, and it runs perfectly. Not too lean at all. I doubt it makes more than 5-10 hp more than stock though.
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that's cool! never heard that! what CR are you running?
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'72, now with a living, breathing 2056... |
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8.0 to 1 static
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cool, this is REALLY getting me thinking now, just to give it a try and see...
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'72, now with a living, breathing 2056... |
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