Adding oil press. switch (dual)

paulhagedorn · 08-05-2000, 07:28 AM

Does anyone know if I have to cut the engine tin to add the combination oil press switch(911 style that has the oil press. and oil press idiot light).

Thanks,
Paul

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

No, you don't have to. Get the "adaptor kit" which is essentially a hose with the proper ends and a mounting bracket. No cutting required.

--DD

JP Noonan · 08-05-2000, 02:11 PM

The adaptor kit is nice, comes with a mounting bracket and all.

I used a grease gun hose extension and a hose clamp to mount the sender. The grease hose is rated at something stupid like 600 psi, so a 914 2.0L shouldn't be a problem.

jmcleod · 08-05-2000, 04:16 PM

i wish someone would make about a 3" metric threaded nipple and union so that you could just mount the dual sender slightly above the sheet metal. i had problems sealing the hose into the block. maybe it was the difficulty of tightening the hose since you can't get to the nut end of the hose with the sheet metal in the way. the result was oil leaks. can you use teflon tape?

HarveyH · 08-06-2000, 02:34 PM

I don't know about the Teflon tape. Maybe somebody else could tell you for sure, but I'd be be more ikely to use a sealer like Permatex or another paste type sealer. As far as tightening the fitting into the block, somebody on this site or on Rennlist suggested sacrificing a deep socket. Cut about 1/4 to 1/3 of the wall out of one side, about 3/4 of the length of the socket, to let the hose flex out. You don't need a real lot of torque to seat a tapered pipe thread, so loss of strength in the tool is not a real factor.
Harvey

oredith · 08-06-2000, 03:02 PM

the easy way to attach the hose is to get a 1/2" (i *think* that's the size of the hole on the case, if not, use whatever size the hole in the case is) pipe at your FLAPS, one about 3-4" long with thread on both sides, then add a threaded connector at one end.. thread the other end into the case, tighten the pipe on with the hex threaded pipe that's now accessible, and then attach the hose onto the other side of the pipe..

hmm.. after reading that, it sounds really confusing.. if it IS confusing, let me know, and i'll try to draw a picture and post it somewhere..

Jeff

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

I'm not a big fan of screwing a piece of pipe into the case and mounting the sender on top of that. The sender is quite a bit more massive than the stock one, and putting it at the end of a pipe gives it somewhat of a lever arm.

I think the threaded hole in the case would be more prone to vibration damage with this kind of setup. I would be tempted to use a small-ish pipe screwed into the case, but then put the hose on the end of *that*. You'd get most of the weight off of the end of the pipe that way, and you'd still be able to grab the pipe to put a little bit of torque on it.

--DD

oredith · 08-07-2000, 12:17 AM

sorry DD and everyone..
that IS what i meant.. i knew i didn't get a very good description out from that first run.. i've got a pipe AND the hose on top of that, and then the sender mounted to a point on the ECU bracket.. i added the pipe in because it was impossible to tighen the hose in enough to stop leakage.. and with the pipe extension, i could actually excert some leverage..

oh well, maybe it's a bit clearer now..

Jeff

paulhagedorn · 08-08-2000, 07:26 AM

well,
i ended up cutting the sheet metal to make it fit in the block. it actually looks pretty much stock the way i have it and since the sender i bought has a place to tighten it in top, i tightened it that way and i doubt it will leak. i also put a gasket sealant on the threads.

thanks for the suggestions, though.

Paul