removing rear sway bars in 914-4

[tshih]

Anyone knows if a spring compressor is needed to remove the rear sway bars on a 1975 914-4 and if a new pair of bolts (what size) is needed to remount the shocks to the trailing arms?

Tom

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

No spring compressor needed to remove either sway bar (F or R). You can continue to use the bolts with the knobs on the end, or you can replace them with standard bolts. Either way works.

--DD

[tshih]

Dave what about substituting another bolt after removing the one with the sway bar end is removed won't the spring be extended if not locked in place prior to removal?

[tshih]

Anyone know what size bolt that is?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

It's not a simple generic bolt. The one without the knob for the sway bar is part number 914 333 565 00 , the one with the knob is part number 914 333 565 01 . It has a specific shank length (the unthreaded part), and the end only has two flats instead of six. The head is also thinner than most bolts. It takes an M18 nut.

That lower bolt does nothing to keep the springs in place. It merely attaches the strut (which is a complete unit) to the trailing arm. Jack the car up so the weight is off the wheels, and you'll find the trailing arm will drop down further when you remove the bolt.

But you don't need to remove it; just pop the drop-link off of it with a "pickle fork". It does no damage to have the knobs there with no sway bar drop-links attached to them.

--DD

[tshih]

Thanks Dave,

my point is I'm selling the roller without the sway bars which I'm retrofitting into the 914 I'm keeping.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Just swap the bolts, then. If you can leave both cars with one corner up in the air, you can just swap the bolts on that one corner and then go on to the next.

--DD

[campbellcj]

Good luck getting the drop-link ball-cup bushing back onto your new car. Damn I hated those things...(have a Weltmeister bar with rod-ends now).