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Drive Nürburgring !!!!!
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Civi Joint wont come out
Hi guy's
I just got an 75 2.0 914 ! The car is in a very good condition and has no rust ! I need to take out the civi joint but it wont come out of the wheelbearing !! I even made a special tool to push it out ,didn't work !! M14 bolts broke judt like that !! Anybody ever had a problem like this !! Heat it up ,tryed everything !! Any suggestions ?? And here is an other question: I still have the ugly black big Bumbers and i want to change them to the early style !! Chrome or fiber does not matter but i want to keep the car as original as possible !! Anybody knows where i get a complete kit ?? Thank's in advance Kasi
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78 ,911 Targa 3,2ltr 63, 356 B Racer The Nürburgring Tool 04. 996 GT3 Euro CS ( German Based ) High Tech 427 Sebring 12 hrs Cobra |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Savannah, Ga.
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Where is Natalee Holloway?
![]() Been dying to say that! M
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I wish I had a dime for every penny I ever had. http://www.914club.com/bbs2/uploads/blog-1136350347.jpg |
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Drive Nürburgring !!!!!
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For that you have to ask Nancy Crace from CNN she knows everything Crime related in Aruba .
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78 ,911 Targa 3,2ltr 63, 356 B Racer The Nürburgring Tool 04. 996 GT3 Euro CS ( German Based ) High Tech 427 Sebring 12 hrs Cobra |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Milky Way Galaxy - 3rd Stone
Posts: 871
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Ron Meier Backyard Shadetree Mechanic 1974 914/6 conversion with 2.7L (The Grey Ghost) 1973 Chalon with 2.4T MFI (Schlitzalom) All my 4 cylinders are gone
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914 Geek
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CV joint (Constant Velocity)-- You will want to remove the castle nut from the end of the stub axle. This will require a large socket (I forget if it's 30mm, 32mm, or 36mm; I've had cars with each over the years) and a really beefy breaker bar and a loooooooong cheater pipe. It's installed with 250 lb-ft of torque and usually requires significantly more than that to remove. Have someone stand on the brakes or brace the rear hub really well while you or your heaviest friend stands on the cheater pipe... Don't forget to remove the cotter pin from the nut first!
Anyway, once the nut is off, you use your BFH to pound the stub axle out. You will need to disconnect the inboard end of the axle first, though. One reasonable way to pound out the stub is to put the nut back on backwards, so that the end of the nut is just even with the end of the axle. That will help keep your hammer from mashing the threads. Once the stub axle is out of the hub (don't roll the car around without the stub in place!!) you can put it in a bench vise and separate the CV from the stub. After removing the bolts, of course. Bumpers-- Unbolt the old ones, unbolt the supports, plug the big holes in the body where the mounts go. Grind off the lips that the bumper cover hooks to. There is one on each side of the front and rear bumper, plus one along the top of the front bumper, along where the front trunk seal goes. Drill four mounting holes for each bumper--there should already be reinforcements in the front fender wells and the rear trunk area for the mounting bolts. Paint any bare metal so it doesn't rust. Bolt the bumpers on. --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Drive Nürburgring !!!!!
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Thank you Dave for the advise.
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78 ,911 Targa 3,2ltr 63, 356 B Racer The Nürburgring Tool 04. 996 GT3 Euro CS ( German Based ) High Tech 427 Sebring 12 hrs Cobra |
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