Most motor for injection?

[sasquatch]

It has only been a year and I am still trying to figure out what motor to build for my 914. Money is a huge consideration, which, unfortunately for me, eliminates Jake.

The car is an immaculate, all original 1974 914 1.8. To say this car runs perfect is an understatement. It purrs, it idles, it runs to redline, uses no oil, hell, does not even leak oil. 103k miles on original motor that has never been apart.

But, lacks the power I desire.

I also have a basket case 2.0 in the garage. Pulled from a friends running car, just needed a rebuild badly. I also have the complete 2.0 injection system from it.

What do I build with what I have? (bangs head against wall repeatedly). I crave a big stroker, monster, Jake motor, but checkbook will not support it.

I also crave the smoothness and reliability of fuel injection. My 1.8 runs so smooth, starts instantly hot or cold, idles without touching the pedal even in near zero temps or pushing 100 degrees.

I do my own work, built many big type I's in my day, and a few type IVs, but no IV's over stock. I have the tools, the shop, and the ability, just can not make a decision to a plan of attack. (budget minded)

Looking for suggestions.

[djpateman]

You need to establish a budget first. More power costs more money. Listen to all of Jake's radio shows, and you get a good feel for what is possible. Doing it correctly the first time around is THE biggest cost savings you will find in the whole process. Buying a complete kit will also save over trying to buy piecemeal, especially in the compatibility issues.

If you want to use as many stock parts as possible (intake & exhaust, crank & rods) then a 96mm bore for a 2056 will work. A new cam (Jake's 9550 will work with D-jet FI) is essential, and don't cheap out on valve train or heads.

For my own engine, this is the route I'm taking, but I have to stay with stock bore thus I'm using Euro pistons. HAM did my heads, and Jake is providing almost everything else.

[MarkRobinson]

I read on rennlist a few times that 2.1l is the largest you can go & still tune your D-jet to compensate appropriately.

Yes, figure on the essentials first, then work with teh rest of your remaining $ on what else you could do.
priorities would be on headwork, gaskets, seals, EFI parts (if necessary as they're so expensive), crank/rod/case reconditioning, & then if there's $ left, what size P&C's you could go, cam, hotter ignition, better clutch, motormounts, etc.

[Patrick3000]

First thing you need to decide is what is more important power or smooth reliability. If power is what you want than carburetors are the answer and just build a big Type IV. If you want to stick with the stock fuel injection than a 2056 is about the largest engine that you can build. 94mm Mahle Euro pistons and cylinders are an option if you can find the good ones, made in Germany. Mahle makes these same pistons in Brazil, lots of stories on the net about quality control issues with this version. The cam is also important Web-cam makes a nice but expensive cam for use with the stock fuel injection; I believe the grind is #73. If you use a Web-cam you must use the lifters that they supply and then things get pricy.

Compression is the other issue that you really need to think about. Higher compression is cheap horsepower. That horsepower comes with a price heat! If you go with stock compression 7.6, (8.0 for the Euro pistons) than stock heads and valves are fine. Some guys go with higher compression numbers 8.5 – 8.7 even 9.0 that’s when it’s important to find the right combination of parts.

So figure out what is important for your build then plan your budget and start collecting parts. I just went though this on my 912E engine, same 2.0 Type IV.

Best of luck!

[sasquatch]

I have the entire D-jet system, but the condition is unknown. It ran, but not real well.

How big can I go on the L jet? Mine works flawlessly. Should be able to put a bit bigger injectors in for more fuel.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Mueller reported no problems using the 1.8's L-jet on a 2.0 motor--just bolt on and go. I personally would want to use a WBO2 sensor to make sure it's not leaning out at the top end.

--DD

[sasquatch]

Originally posted by Dave at Pelican Parts
Mueller reported no problems using the 1.8's L-jet on a 2.0 motor--just bolt on and go. I personally would want to use a WBO2 sensor to make sure it's not leaning out at the top end.

--DD

That is exactly what I wanted to hear. I just kept thinking that with the AFM, if a bigger motor was pulling in more air the AFM would tell the comp to kick in more fuel. But you are right about top end. It may hit its max flow below redline. A good WB O2 sensor will tell me wonders. I could play with fuel pressures and even go to larger injectors if needed.

With the tweaking that is going on in the aftermarket "ricer" world, turbos, SC, mods mods mods, these kids are getting pretty adapt to tweaking about any injection system to flow what they need. We have a local speedshop that caters to that crowd. I think I need to go in and talk to them.

I could see taking the L-jet as a base but create whole new intake runners and plenum for better flow, then tweaking the system to flow the right amount of fuel. My mind is wandering again........

[Bleyseng]

Ljet FI with a 2.0L bus plenum and 914 2.0L runners should be the hot ticket.
That would support a Ljet 2056 and allow plenty of flow. Tuning the Ljet is pretty easy using a LM1 wideband O2 meter. You just adjust the wiper inside the AFM to correct the AFR.

I prefer the Raby 9550 cam grind as it reduces head temps plus gives you good hp gains over stock. The heads and their rebuild level will determine the life of the motor.

You should be at the 115hp range with this setup and it will look stockish.