Its here finally. LOTS of questions.

funnyguy · 09-06-2001, 10:25 AM

Welp, I towed my '76 914 2.0 to Lexington, KY this weekend. So its in the back of my driveway now. I've been away from the BBS lately, which i regret. I took to cleaning the trunks and engine compartment. random animals had made nests there, and leaves had fallen in it. some new rust had developed since last summer, and rusted thru one of the air guides on the passenger side. i'm going to end up having to get a new shelf over there, and having a body shop weld it in. theres a lot of money....

I think the fuel pump may be bad. I can get it started for about 45 seconds. I cranked and cranked... I turned it over last summer, and ran it for a few minutes. But I had to put some gas on top of the intake, and it'd fire and run for a minute or so, but that still would run out of fuel after it had used what was in the intake. Does it would like the pump? How can I test the pressure in the fuel lines ?

I have the brake calipers off in the rear, they were siezed when I got the car. I'm plannign on rebuilding them. The rotors are shot too. Eventually I want to convert to a 5-lug pattern, so i'm confused right now. Should I convert now or later? what are my options for converting to 5-lug? What parts do I need? I'm going to have to buy new rotors anyways... do I need new wheel bearings or anything?

Can anyone suggest a good way to remove the paint from the car? I want to strip it down and prime the outside at least fairly quickly.

The airbox had been sitting open before I got it, and the bottom rusted through. any suggestions on where to get a new one? just call PP and ask?

The accelerator pedal..... *sigh* this needs work. the linkage or something is broken. there's a LOT of lateral motion in it too. I can swing it left and touch the brake, or right and touch the center console.... the pedal is there, I think what connects it to the floorboard is worn away... but can anyone post some good pics of what a proper assembly should look like?

This car was last registered in 1990, and hasn't been driven at LEAST since that time. anyone else want to throw in on what else I would need to do. I'm probably leaving stuff out, but thats to be expected. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide....

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Mike Brancato
AIM: funnyguy00
ICQ: 9348858

'76 914 2.0 rust machine

agent914 · agent914's Garage

Well that sounds like quite the project you have there. Aircraft stripper. The stuff in the blue one gallon container will take the paint and primer off quite nicely. PP has new flapper boxes I recently bought mine from there. Since its a project I would say start collecting the parts for the 5-lug conversion now and see where you are when you get to the brakes/suspension part of the project. I'd start w/ the body work nad engine first, those are the more expensive portions of your project. Good Luck. Tom --agent914--

robby750 · 09-07-2001, 02:25 AM

I am in Lexington, Ky too! Never thought there would be two of us from the same city on this board. I ran a check through the DMV and found only about 5 914's registered in the entire county. I'd like to see your car sometime.

funnyguy · 09-07-2001, 04:09 AM

I live on Elizabeth street, 3 houses up from the Elizabeth Street Park, away from Waller on campus. After I get off work tonight, I'll be out there working on the beast. My goal is to get it moving and stoping, then to drop the motor and fix inside the engine compartment best I can.

My car isn't registered yet. I only got it here wednesday morning. If you drop by, I'll start it and let you hear it 'pur'. I should be out working 'bout 6:30 or so...

Quote:

Originally posted by robby750:
I am in Lexington, Ky too! Never thought there would be two of us from the same city on this board. I ran a check through the DMV and found only about 5 914's registered in the entire county. I'd like to see your car sometime.

[This message has been edited by funnyguy (edited 09-07-2001).]

Roland Kunz · 09-07-2001, 02:19 PM

Hello

Pedal - Basehinge rustet and only the rubber holds it togehter.

How can I test the pressure in the fuel lines ? - Normaly with a pressure meter on the little port or hooked into the feedline runing between the two injectorrails.
For a quick check you can feel the pressure by twisting and pressing the fuelline while you short the fuelpumprelay. Also if you turn the key the fuelpump must allways run for a secound and if you do this several times the noise gos from huming into a more angry huming showing the pump has more load/backpressure.

the brake calipers & other issues -

are covered here very often so the archives will give plenty information plus check the Tech pages for pictured back up.

Avoid Sandblasting on the sheets as they will turn into waving metal.

Grüsse

24flys · 24flys's Garage

If your fuel pump isn't running, try putting in a new relay at the relay board, If you know your headlights work, take a relay out of it and test the fuel pump. mine hadn't started for nine years and wouldn't start when I got it. Like you did, I sprayed starting fluid in and it would pop off but wouldn't run. I put a new relay in and the little sucker started right off. If that don't work, try brad anders, he knows A LOT about these fuel injection systems.

scott

24flys · 24flys's Garage

If your fuel pump isn't running, try putting in a new relay at the relay board, If you know your headlights work, take a relay out of it and test the fuel pump. mine hadn't started for nine years and wouldn't start when I got it. Like you did, I sprayed starting fluid in and it would pop off but wouldn't run. I put a new relay in and the little sucker started right off. If that don't work, try brad anders, he knows A LOT about these fuel injection systems.

scott

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

Take a look at: http://www.914fan.net/djet.html . This will tell you most of what there is to know about the FI system on your car.

Do you know if you're getting any fuel? A fuel pressure gauge would be a good thing. The ~1.5 second "buzz" of the fuel pump running when the key goes from "off" to "on" is also a good diagnostic tool. Listen for it.

--DD

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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling

DDS · 09-07-2001, 05:17 PM

If your car is at all rough, start thinkin' parts car. pay under 500 for a rustbucket but complete and you'll make more than that on the parts you don't need and save a fortune on those you do. The 914 club classified is a good place to go with needs and stuff to sell, and learn to work the search feature of this BBS.
IMHO This is by far the best resource on 914 stuff available. Dave Darling, Roland Kunz, Jake Raby and others have forgotten more about these cars than the most will ever know.
If your exhaust is shot, you might try to find a '73 or '74 2.0 parts car and maybe you'll get decent - maybe even SS heat exchangers. Those are expensive to buy. Everything is.
Much of what you need is available used if you are patient, and the parts which aren't or shouldn't be are available at PP.

Tell us more about your car!

[This message has been edited by DDS (edited 09-07-2001).]

funnyguy · 09-07-2001, 07:21 PM

I meant to post a follow up to this. about 11pm last night, the car started and ran for about 3 minutes. I re started and i let it run for about 20 minutes on its own. woohoo, right? well tonight, I started it, and a few minutes later it dyed. Started it again, and I went to hear the fuel pump. The fuel pump was humming. Then the fuel pump died out while I had my head in the front trunk listening. I think I know what the problem is.... Anyone selling a used fuel pump that works ?

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Mike Brancato
AIM: funnyguy00
ICQ: 9348858

'76 914 2.0 rust machine

derek_sf · 09-07-2001, 07:49 PM

when I let my car sit the full pump stopped working too. would fire up, run a min and then die. I towed it to this old german guy who put it on the hoist, and then lightly tapped around on the full pump with a small hammer. took it off the hoist and it fired right up and has been fine ever since. it's running for a min or so because of the cold start valve.

funnyguy · 09-07-2001, 07:52 PM

Well. I'm going to try to post some pics of my teen rust machine...
bare with me, I pulled it out of a barn
with a hand winch 3 days ago....

From the side...

And smoke came out for a few minutes when it started.... remembering the moment...

I found a hole under the tar insulation in the driver side floor about the size of a baseball. up front by the accel pedal, is gone too. but the accelerator pedal mounts seem to be in tact. It has ONLY begun...

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Mike Brancato
AIM: funnyguy00
ICQ: 9348858

'76 914 2.0 rust machine

[This message has been edited by funnyguy (edited 09-07-2001).]

funnyguy · 09-07-2001, 08:04 PM

Ya, it died, once, and I tapped the two bolts that mount it with a hammer. and it worked for about 5 more minutes.... I think this time I called the time of death.

Quote:

Originally posted by derek_sf:
when I let my car sit the full pump stopped working too. would fire up, run a min and then die. I towed it to this old german guy who put it on the hoist, and then lightly tapped around on the full pump with a small hammer. took it off the hoist and it fired right up and has been fine ever since. it's running for a min or so because of the cold start valve.

------------------
Mike Brancato
AIM: funnyguy00
ICQ: 9348858

'76 914 2.0 rust machine

DDS · 09-08-2001, 04:17 AM

Reminds me of mine when I bought it.

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-- Dave
Pics of my '73 project here: http://members.tripod.com/mike4g/dds73_b4pics.htm

woodman · 02-04-2002, 11:36 AM

I just got my first 914, '75 1.8L and have been giving it a once over. I haven't turned it over yet. I put in new fuel lines, relined the tank, changed oil, etc. All of the electrical appears to work except for the radio, headlights (motors work), and possibly the fuel pump. From what I read above, it appears that the headlights and fuel pump are on a related circuit (relay). Is this the case? Any tips appreciated.

green71 · 02-04-2002, 11:59 AM

Woodman,

Not sure about your car, but my '71 1.7l has the headlight relay on the relay board under the driver's side dash, and the fuel pump relay on the relay board on the driver's side engine compartment. There are wiring diagrams on this site that you might want to check out. Print these color versions; they're a lot better than the Haynes b&w versions.

Good luck,

Mark

CHAZZ · 02-04-2002, 06:59 PM

I have a 1974 2.0 project car also. The problem I have with my
headlights is that thet do not open or close but the lights work.
Is this a relay?? My car has only a liitle rust but a cheap paint job
where it looks like the car was dipped in paint. As for mechhinical,
the engine compartment looks like a speggetti bowl! I live
in the western suburbs of Chicago.

Chuck

green71 · 02-04-2002, 08:05 PM

Each headlight motor has its own relay, I believe, so it's unlikely that they'd both be shot at once. There's also a wire that runs from the headlamp switch that activates the headlight motors. Make sure the switch is wired right. After that, search these posts for "headlight motor" and you should come across some good info.

Good luck,

Mark

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

If you look throughh the 914 Tech Articles section of this website, you will find all kinds of interesting things. Including the following-- http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_headlamp_motor/914_headlamp_motor.htm

--DD