Static timing for my 2.2T 914-6

[farleyd]

I am just back from a two-hour drive with my newly-converted-to-6 914. It behaves well, in the sense that is fires right up, no more fuel flooding. The problem is that is has no power at all, not torque if you prefer.

I am supposed to do the 0-60MPH in about 9sec., if i am lucky i do it in 14sec.!!! But the engine revs to about 5.5K, a bit sluggish, but it gets there.

Coil is new (Blue Coil). CDI is functional. As for the Marelli (can it really be?).

Possible cause? Timing is my guess. But the Haynes manual refers at 35-degree BTDC @ 6000RPM.

Other sources tell 5-degree BTDC @ idle (900-1000RPM)

Can someone clear up things? Or point another possible cause for lack of power?

Many many thanks!

www.farleydw.com/914.html

[paulhagedorn]

As far as the timing goes, they sound correct to me...but I am not totally sure. They vary from engine to engine of the 6 variety.

The timing should be set to 5 BTDC at idle(900) and with the vacuum hoses disconnected, it should read 35 BTDC @6000...this is just a check for the mechanical advance of the distributor. You might want to take the distributor out and clean/partially rebuild it. I would say start looking for a Bosch distributor to eventually replace what you have, though.

First thing to do would be to check the timing at idle. I think it is supposed to be done with all the vacuum lines connected, etc, if your car has any. Then rev it up. It should reach full mechanical advance(35 BTDC) before it gets to the full 6000 rpm's.

Hope this helps some,
Paul

Oh, you might want to try cleaning the carbs out or the mechanical injection, if that is what you have. Run some carb/fuel injector cleaner through the system.

[farleyd]

I just did a quick test - for not to wake the neighbours...

When the engine is idling, the Z1 mark is way left of the fan mark. Id say, on a clock reference, between the 10 and 11 hour mark.

IS the timing way off? Id think so. Where shoud that Z1 mark be when idle.

Thanks!

[J P Stein]

The first thing I would check is to make sure all six cylinders are running.

Rev it up to 1500 or so and start pulling plug wires (one at a time, of course).The revs should fall off noticeably if the hole is working.
A six runs smoother on 4 or 5 than a type IV does on all 4 and this is the easiest way to find out what's going on there. When you get used to how it runs on six, you'll be able to tell when/if one drops out.

JPIII

[farleyd]

Ok ill try that. But on that Z1 mark position? I think its not Ok that its way left, far from the fan mark? I recap; its between 10 and 11 hour mark, on a clock, 12 would be the fan mark.

[J P Stein]

OK. Your right, that's wrong.....should be closer(should be a 5 deg advance mark on the
pulley). I put red paint on the Z1 mark and yellow on the rest.(5 of em, as recall)

An access hole in the firewall (mine is 8 X 6) is a great help. A real bonus at valve adjust time.

I time my cars by ear.

At idle, advance the dizzy. The rpms will rise. When it reaches max rpm (by ear), more advance will cause it to slow down.

From the max rpm point, retard the dizzy about 5/10 degrees. Take it out and drive it.
If it pings, too much advance.

The above always gets me with in 5 deg, course I been doin' it that way for bout 35 years. A hold over from my street racin' days. Big cams like lots of advance, but it cause the motor to overheat.....thus, I was always fooling with the dizzy.

Or you could use a timing light.....I have one, but seldom use it.

JPIII

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

There is nor reson to cut the firewall as the timing marks are on the flywheel and can bee seen in the cutout from the trany.

If you open the trunklid you can see it better.

Grüsse,
Roland

[J P Stein]

Cutting an access hole in the firewall allows easy access to the fanbelt/alternator,seeing the timing marks is a bonus. I'm sure that professional mechanics have a method of getting all them little alternator pully shims in positon while standing on their heads, using mirrors, holding lights, etc, thus Roland doesn't need a hole in his 914/6. Guess I'm just lazy.

The timing marks on my flywheel don't line line up with anything.....early 911 flywheel/76, 2.7L. It only goes in one postition and it's the wrong one......go figure.

JPIII

[farleyd]

About the hole into the firewall. I had a broken fan belt happeing to me at 9:30 Pm in a middle of nowhere with no spare! My local Porsche dealer isnt carrying that STOCK. Do you belive that?

Would you believe if i say that i found one in a local auto parts store? At 10PM on a Thursday night??? Yup! A Porsche 911T one. Aftermarket but then...

Would you believe if i say that cause that hole in that firewall, the belt was changed in 2 minutes???

So glad i made that. And timing and access to distributor is so easy.

Any 6 or conversion should do that. I even cutted the backpad into 3 parts, removable with Velcro. Again, a matter of seconds to accesss the fan belt.

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

I guess I´m just a masochist ( see also AC threat on the 911 board ).

Yes the fanbelt setup is a bit tricky. I made a simple tool to aligne the shims trough the holes. Lets call it a spiderpuck.

It is much faster then removing the firewall cutout.

Also have a magnet on a long extension on hand plus some spare shims if they fall to deep.

Didn´t need a mirror. I think he could do it in the middle of the night.

Only the 914/6 flywheels came with the marks. Other flywheels need to grove the TDC mark and also to make the 30 / 35 marks for people without a adjustable strotoscope.

Similar can be done to the 2,2 on flywheel and I use a simple paintstripe to prolong the mark on the pressure plate.

All 911 flywheels are made to fit in only one position.

With a modern Bosch "Pocketmaster" or oszilloskope you ain´t need any marks anywhere to set your timing.

Lazy guys like me use the volkswagen Bus sensor on the 914/4 and 914/6 to find TDC with a tester.

Only seting the points dwell angle is a bit a damn thing especialy with the marelli distributor.


Grüsse,
Roland