Tranny Not Cooperating....

[ddustan]

I have developed a problem getting my car into 1st and reverse over the last 2-3 days. I will be checking the tranny oil level today but am wondering.... what will I top it with if it is low?

I've seen the other notes about bushings and the like but thought this would be a good first step.

Any ideas on this subject will be appreciated!

David

Signal Orange 1974 914 1.8

[scotty914]

try adjusting the clutch before anything else that is it many times

[SteveStromberg]

Check the set screws on the Shift rod, As they loosen the pattern gets wider and first and reverse get hard to engage. Steve

[John Rogers]

The post about checking the clutch is right on. Usually if shifting slowly gets worse or seems to show up "one day" the clutch adjustment has gone away. This can be from cable stretch, adjusting nut movement, pedal bushing wear, etc. When you are unser the car, make sure there are two nuts (7mm) locking the cable on the release arm as one lock nut will slowly move. Other things to check are fluid level, bushing deterioration (all), the pinch bolt in the tunnel and the tapered set screws in both couplings. I have found that it helps to fully go from front to back and replace and/or adjust everything yearly and that includes toping with trans fluid. Good luck.

[ddustan]

I will check the clutch cable and connections. I guess my next question would be.... How do I adjust the clutch? I've looked for instructions in manuals and online. Am I correct in ASSuming that it is done at the pedal as Haynes seems to be saying or will the above fittings take care of that?

I appreciate the help from you guys. I'll let you know what my findings are.

David

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The clutch adjustment is on the tranny end of the cable. Remember that the free play on the pedal end also includes the distance the pedal will move upward when you pull it. This is due to the pedal's being spring-loaded to go down toward the floorboard.

The bushings and set-screws and so on in the shift linkage are where to look if the problem is that the gear shift lever is too sloppy to get into gear. If you can find the gear, but cannot get the lever into the gear, it is less likely that the shift linkage is your problem.

It is still something to check, particularly if a clutch adjustment doesn't help at all.

--DD

[ddustan]

Thanks for the note. I can definitely get into the gears and they don't wander and in fact are very solid. I did notice that my clutch engages at about a half inch off the floor. (Ouch!)

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

If the clutch engages that low, there's a decent chance it isn't completely disengaging when you push the pedal in. Adjust the clutch and try it some more.

--DD

[Otto]

The clutch pedal should have 3/4 to one inch free play at the top of the pedal. That means that you pull back or push the top of the clutch pedal back and forth till the pedal gets hard and that is the free play. If the clutch pedal is hard, that means that the clutch disc is too thin and could put strain on the clutch and the bowden tube. The bowden tube is a tube that goes through the center console area. It is welded on the firewall and your clutch cable goes thru it, and the cable sheith end goes on that part of the bowden tube that sticks out of the firewall. Half of the 914s that we work on have this tube become unwelded, and then pull through the firewall. BIG MESS!!!!!!! You have to take the cable out , take the gear shift lever and shift rod in the tunnel and re spot weld the bowden tube where the factory orginally welded it. We weld in several more places to be safe. You have to be very carefull here as when you are respot welding the wiring harness and the gas lines are in there. The gas lines are plastic and don't like welding sparks. Before you weld the bowden tube back in place, you have to pull the bowden tube back to its original position. OTTO

[ddustan]

I loosened up the the clutch last night. Maybe a bit too much but I can get in and out of gear smoothly. Th clutch takes up nicely about half-way out on the pedal. I will try to tighten it a hair ths weekend and ajust the pedal free-play.

I checked the Bowden tube and it actually apears to be in very good shape. This is something I'd never thought of! Thanks for the heads-up Otto! It is very easy to see how the tube could work loose and do the damage.

My next question is... Is there a good way to keep the clutch adjustment from slipping? It seems like it will most likely twist away until I have the same thing happen soon.

Thanks to all for the help!

David

[URY914]

Put another nut on the cable and tighten the nuts together. This locks them, and they shouldn't move.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Always double-nut the clutch adjustment. Nyloc nuts don't hold--at least, they didn't for me. Double-nutting the adjustment is the only way I know of to keep the adjustment from backing off.

--DD

[ddustan]

OK, the second nut has been cinched on and it appears to be staying put after a few days. Thanks for the help!

David