Making a 1.7 engine into a 2.0 engine

[RichMason]

I can't believe what great advice I've been getting from the forum. When I posted a thread about which 2.0 block to buy, several people mentionned converting my 1.7 to a 2.0 using either 2.0 or 1.8 heads. What exactly would be involved in this process and what are the tradeoffs. I think that 90-100 hp is all that I need.

[SteveStromberg]

You will need Crank and Rods, you can use heads or the heads if you use heads you will also need tin. I have Cranks and rods and heads If you need em. Steve

[piperpilotduane]

I just finished this conversion. I used a 1.7L block, 2.0L crank and rods, 1.8L heads, 94MM pistons and cylinders for 2.0L vw bus, Scat cam, 009 Distributor and dual Webber 44s. I have abut 200 miles on it and runs like a champ. I figured compression around 7.5-1 and figure about 100 HP. Found that the red book on vw engine rebuilding to be useful. Only change I found is that after lining up timing marks on crank and camgear you then rotate it to TDC on the #1 Cyl to install the distributor on TDC.
Timing marks will not line up with case parting line after tdc is set in distributor.
Good luck!


P.S. If buying new, use the euro spec pistons. I used the bus pistions because I bought a new set on ebay for $80. My Budget would not stand the $400 plus price tag! A set of 96MM may be cheaper.

[RichMason]

Steve,

What about P&Cs? Any case modifications? How much of the FI can be reused? The MPS can be adjusted but what about injectors, the brain, etc? Will it be just as good as a 2.0, at least for daily driving? If it is rebuilt well, will it be suitable for driving on the track?

[Bleyseng]

As for P&C's don't use the bus ones as they have too low of compression! Go with the Euro 94mm (8 to1) or get some 96mm ones and set it up for 8 to 1 or 8.5 to 1.
You don't have to modify the case they will drop in.
Try to use the 914 1.8 heads with the large valves (41x 34).
You will have to adjust the MPS (use Kjell's method)to get the engine close and running then take it to a dyno shop where you can fine tune it.
Switch to the 2.0l injectors but the brain should be fine.
Everything else is reusable except get a larger throttle body off a 2.0l bus (50mm) for greater airflow.
Should be great on the track once you get it dialed in and in the 90-100hp range.
Oh one other thing, have EVERyTHING balanced. The crank, rods, flywheel etc...this is free hp.
Geoff