HP with 2.0 carbs and exhaust?

[911st]

About what HP would a stock 2.0 but with carbs and maybe headers and sport mufflers run?

Looking at a DE class and things like ports and cams push it up to a higher class than would like.

Do sport valve springs help much.

Thx.

[Joe Ricard]

If you are lucky and have sacrificed to the Carb gods you could see as much as 85 HP.

[911st]

WHP?

Thx

[Joe Ricard]

crank

[911st]

I am rusty on 914, thought stock HP was about 90-100hp for the 2.0.

Are you saying carbs and headers do not make much improvement?

Thx.

[Joe Ricard]

Once I changed to a 86b +5 web cam, put in Euro pistons and bumped the compression with a .037 amount of deck. ported the heads, dual valve springs and wound the motor to 7,000 RPM, Balanced everything, Tangerine Evo header, webber 40 IDF 32mm vents was I able to make about 110-115 HP on a perfect jetting day.

So yes stock 2.0L will not make more power with carbs and header. But please post your Dyno sheet when you are done.

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by 911st

About what HP would a stock 2.0 but with carbs and maybe headers and sport mufflers run?
.

Less than the stock HP with fuel injection. The stock cam and distributor do not work correctly with carbs.

To make more power on a Type 4 with carbs, you need to change the cam, go to larger cylinders and clean up the intake and exhaust ports.

[racer]

Out of curiosity, we are at least talking dual carbs? what size?

But yes, you will not gain HP by adding carbs without changing the cam. Open exhaust is great for noise, but I don't see much/any hp gain there alone either.

Stock 2.0, when in fine tune, was rated at 95hp for a '73-74.. but '76 they were down to a rated 86hp (mostly due to emissions, i don't think there was a compression drop on the later motors).

What year 2.0 did you start with?

80 WHEEL hp could be about right.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

With an actual tuned header, you can see another 5 or possibly 10 HP. You'll lose all semblance of heat (with 1 exception) and you'll have to figure out muffler options, support brackets, and so on. Prices range from expensive to HOLY COW! Figure at least $100/HP.

The one exception to the "lose all semblance of heat" is that Racer Chris (AKA Tangerine Racing) has a small heat exchanger section that fits part of his header setup. It supposedly provides enough heat to defog the windshield, but not a lot more. His headers are widely regarded as Very Good Stuff, but be sitting down when you look at the price. Quality costs.

A different muffler will give you "about" the same power as the stocker. You can gain a little here, lose a little there. The Bursch seems to give a little tiny bit of top-end, which is probably what you want for the track.

Stronger valve springs are unneeded; the stock cam means you have almost no power at redline, and the stock springs can control the valve motions at redline already.

Concentrate on giving the car "more power in the corners". That is, work on the suspension, the tires, and most especially the "loose nut behind the wheel".

--DD

[Blake Meredith]

I built a 2.0L engine for a 914 that I ran in ITB for SCCA racing. Engine had to be stock except for header, .5 bump in compression and a header. I had to run the stock intake and plenum but could use any aftermarket EFI. I used SDS fuel only. Here is the dyno graph at the wheels. Although I made awesome power the engine would melt itself apart. The srock cam is horrible in a race engine. I could not get the EGT's below 1450F. Needless to say the engine would not last long.