Build my 1.8FI or 2.0 carb?

[Will98D]

I have a '74 1.8 with LJet, everything functions well but the engine is a slug (need to do a compression test, but assume it's tired). I also bought along the way a real 914 2.0 engine with 3-bolt heads, have not torn apart. It has atop it one 2-bbl carb, and seems to have had a 'thermal event' that was its demise. When turned over it does seem to have one tight spot. Somewhere I also have a good set of 2.0 rods. So, what to do? What I would like is a nice street engine with more torque, and perhaps 100 - 110hp. I figure I can rebuild the 1.8 with a flat-top 96mm piston kit, hopefully retaining the LJet, or build the 2.0 with flat-top 96s and have a carb engine. I plan on running premium fuel, and I only drive about 2k miles a year so the thing doesn't have to last 100k miles. What experiences have you guys had with either a big-bore 1.8 with FI or a basic 2.0 carb setup?

[Nostril Cheese]

2.0L with the right cam, pistons, head work and 40's.

[TheCabinetmaker]

a single carb set up is not optimal, and may not give the performance you want. I myself have a 2.0 liter with the big bore 96 mm pistons. I run a Elgin performance cam, suitable for FI. I run the stock FI djet, but have tuned the MPS for correct mixture. She makes good power, resonable fuel cosumption, and is likely in the 100 + HP range. She appears stock as far as the engine bay goes, Keeping the djet more than likely helps retain the value of the car. For me I would go for carbs or aftermarket FI if I was doing a huge HP increase, but what you are asking for with 100-110 Hp can be handled by the d-jet (with MPS tweeking) just fine. I am not up on Ljet, on how far it can go in increases in displacement and power.

You will need to tear your motor(s) apart to see what is usable, for me, I had to find a different case, as the old case was already at the 2nd crank over size bearing already, no 3rd over size bearing were available.

the single carb is not so nice, cause of the long intake runners, that causes fuel to drop out of suspension and condense on the runners. for performance dual carbs are the way to go, however at 100-110 HP, I know d-jet will work fine. duel carbs often mean, no room for a rain tray, emmision testing problems (now, or in the future , the smog nazi's are constantly trying to bring older cars into the smog testing programs.) plus with d-jet or L-jet there is no sycronzing issues as with dual carbs.

I would avoid the single carb solution.

[WillD]

Thanks for the input. The LJet is actually a more modern system but the tuning can be complex because it uses simple lookup tables and may not be reprogrammable. I'm guessing I could use a throttle body from a larger LJet system like an Accord or whatnot, plus upsize the injectors. So, next step is to pull apart the 2.0 and segue what I have. Regards, Will

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The L-jet system used in the 914 is a very early one--in fact, it is the very first version of L-jet ever used on a passenger car. The computer is still an analog computer, so it doesn't actually have lookup tables and cannot easily be changed. That said, tuning can be done by using different air flow meters and different fuel pressure regulators.

Most injectors do not fit the 914 manifolds correctly, especially modern injectors. If you are willing to modify the manifolds and re-work the attachment of the injectors, it can be made to work. The electrical signals should work on a modern injector, as long as you use ones whose impedance is close to that of the originals.

--DD