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911buff
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Unable to remove screws
I have a problem. I am attempting to rebuild my '74 2,0 but I cannot remove the heads because the screws holding the tin underneath the cylinders will not budge. The previous engine builder did not use anti-cease or used lock-tite on them. Either way, they will not budge and I don't want to destroy the screw (the head is beginning to deform. Does anyone have a method of removing stubborn screws? I cannot reach them with vise-grips or similar "tool". Is there some kind of easy-out, etc, that can reach that far into that area? I am guessing someone has had to deal with this at some point. Thanks!
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Hell Belcho
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oz
Posts: 9,249
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Saved by the buoyancy of citrus. |
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Control Group
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Those cheese head screws that hold on the tin are pot metal and will deform pretty easily. Spray some PB blaster on there and let it sit a while. Sometimes if you put a little grinding compound on the end of your screwdriver it will bit a little better. Heat can loosen stuck fittings.
I don't know if I would use an impact driver on it, depending on where it is exactly.
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She was the kindest person I ever met |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Simi Valley, Ca.
Posts: 265
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If all else fails, use the impact driver. If you break the head of the screw off, drill it out once you get the case apart (on a drill press if you have one). Then go on line and buy a 6X1.0 Helicoil kit. Cost about $20.00 and you will probably use it again. Very common thread size for VW and Porsche (and every Japanese motorcycle ever made).
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Administrator
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Note that the screws on the underside of the under-cylinder tin are an odd size, either M5 or M4, instead of the M6 screws used on the rest of the engine tin.
A good penetrating oil can help. HEAT can help, too. Impact tools as well, of course. Make sure you use a screwdriver that fits the slot in the screw correctly; the wrong size slot makes it much tougher to remove the screws. --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 332
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What has worked for me is heat and the longest largest screwdriver that will fit the head. I also tap the top of the screw driver with a hammer and use PB. Only some break off ;-)
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1973 914-6 Conversion 2.7, crank fired, twin plug. 2006 997.1 Carrera S Cabriolet |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 763
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I had the same problem. I soaked in PB, then heated them up with a torch, then used the impact driver on them. They all came out that way.
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1964 356 C 1970 911T 1974 914 2.0 1986 Carrera Spec911 race car #76 1990 Carrera 2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Discovery Bay, ca
Posts: 269
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I have had luck with a pair of vice grips around the head and a large screw driver all at the same time after soaking over night in PB! Some times I put some heat also!
I replace the screws anyway so the vice grip damage is fine! |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,051
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"Pot metal"? I think not.
The Cap'n |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 149
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its really hard to recommend a set procedure for getting these old fasteners out, I just finished a rebuild and the screws near the intake plenum gave me trouble. I ended up breaking them, drilling and going to a 7mm tap and screw. Once the head is off you can drill it out on a drill press and retap with pretty good results. on reassembly i used allen head stainless fasteners to replace the crummy cheeshead screws. good luck
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911buff
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Tthanks for the advise. I had soaked them with some PB and after I turned the engine over and was able to get at them better, I tapped on the screw driver as I unscrewed and they eventually broke free. So all is well.
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