914 Alignment Spec-Race Set Up

[GLASEM]

Have had my 914 race car for a year now and have been running it with the alignment that came with it.................no idea what camber...caster.....etc are set at.
Did not get then from the prior owner.
Want to get it re-aligned and corner balanced to my weight
Its a 914na.........2 liter 4cyl................1980#
Shod with Toyo Proxies..................205/50-15's on 6 x 15 Pansports......33mm offset
Any suggestions on specs??????

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Max negative camber. That means removing all alignment shims from the outboard ends of the trailing arm mounts. If the chassis or one or both arms are tweaked, you may need a shim on one side or the other. In the front, move the strut tops as far inboard as possible.

I hear that Proxes (like most street tires) are happiest with at least 3 degrees negative camber. Depending on how low the car is, you may not be able to get that without modifying suspension parts or pickup points.

I prefer to have the rear wheels with about a half-degree more negative camber than the front, but the balance can be tuned with sway bars and springs instead if needed.

Max caster in front, as long as it is even on the two front wheels.

A bit of toe-in at the rear to keep the car from trying to go sideways every time you turn the wheel. Either a bit of toe-in at the front to help with stability at speed, or a little bit of toe-out to help it turn in at the expense of being somewhat "twitchy". Front toe-out is usually used in autoX cars, and much less frequently in track cars or street cars.

Ask around on the Racing BBS, they will also have suggestions for starting points for the alignment. They will also tell you that, in the end, a contact pyrometer and a stopwatch will be the ultimate way to set the alignment.

--DD

[John Rogers]

I pretty much agree with what Dave said except for the caster settings. If the car is a road racer then maximum camber is good as it helps stabilize the car. If it is an auto cross car then as little camber as possible will make the car turn much faster as will some toe out. BUT if that is the case then do not drive it much on the street or you will have potential problems.

To get as much negative camber in front you can always replace the upper strut bushing with off set ones that will help.

[GLASEM]

914 is strictly road raced.............

[John Rogers]

If it is a road racer then you would want maximum caster, enough negative camber so the tires wear evenly and have even temps across the surface of the tire. The toe should probably be straight ahead or a tad (1/16 inch) toe in so that the wheels will go straight at full speed.

Another thing to consider is the spring rate in the rear and t-bar size in the front. You want heavy enough rear springs so the front wheel does not lift on a tight turn such as turn 3 at the CA Speedway where the car slows from 140 MPH to about 45 at turn in. On my vintage 914-6 that ended up being 300# but I was running slicks so there was a tad more grip! Try to have someone take pictures at various corners where you race to see how the car is sitting. Flatter is better.......

[GLASEM]

Corners dead FLAT.................

[Flieger]

Originally Posted by john rogers

I pretty much agree with what Dave said except for the caster settings. If the car is a road racer then maximum camber is good as it helps stabilize the car. If it is an auto cross car then as little camber as possible will make the car turn much faster as will some toe out. BUT if that is the case then do not drive it much on the street or you will have potential problems.

To get as much negative camber in front you can always replace the upper strut bushing with off set ones that will help.

I think you meant to say caster in all three places. Or are you talking about how the caster angle causes the camber to increase when steering is applied?

[John Rogers]

Opps, getting old I guess........ Except for some very slow corners such I used to have at the road/street races in Mexico, the front wheels do very little turning relying a lot on forward motion to do the turning.

[larrym]

my car - as setup for racing - by Ken Mack (SporTech):

Front - caster = 5.0, toe = 0, camber = (-) 1.8

(which Ken said is the "most positive possible" with the "trick front struts" it came from Germany with (bilstein competition struts)

Rear: camber = (-) 2.0; toe = 0.04

the race tires are 225-50x16 frt, 245-45x16 Rr on BBS

the car shows serious camber wear on street tires - so i run 4 same size street tires and rotate often - (being directional TA's, that means a re-mount & balance everytime)

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Negative camber, Larry. Tops of the wheels tilting inward is negative camber.

You can get more if you lower the car further, but that can potentially cause other issues depending on how far you lower it.

--DD

[larrym]

Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts

Negative camber, Larry. Tops of the wheels tilting inward is negative camber.

--DD

exactly - if I want to put the car back into street specs, - i want less negative camber all around, for tire wear reasons

(oh, and i didn't mention i also have all SC front end - crossmember, arms & anti-roll bar)

.

p.s. - all you guys suggesting "max" caster & (-) camber: what actual numbers do your cars have and are you suggesting ?