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Join Date: May 2001
Location: lincoln park, nj
Posts: 359
engine reseal

I have a 1975 2.0 - all stock. The air recirculation system and air pump were removed.
Just fixed all the leaks in my car 2 months ago.
2 weeks ago, some idiot in a mini van rear ended me at a 4 way stop sign. Thank God for no body damage to the car. Just have to replace the bumper, bumper shocks and some emblems.
Anyway, the car in now leaking oil again in various spots; 1 push rod tube seal, an area above the oil cooler, and some other areas which are hard to pin point. Im going to have the engine pulled by a reputable local shop.
Can any1 offer some advice on how far
it should be broken down to reseal it while keeping the costs "reasonable". I want to replace anything that will likely need replacement in the not so immediate future. Try to take advantage of this while the engine is out. Probally put a new oil cooler in it too just for piece of mind. I dont want to do a complete rebuilt. Is this the time to replace the alternator/generator? Car only has 50K on it. Should I consider re-ring and redo the heads? I imagine that starts to get pricey. Guess do a leak down and compression check 1st Aye?
Im also going to have the clutch replaced. I guess the clutch kit offered by PP is the way to go on that. I check the tech articles for that.
Also want to convert it over to a 73-74 style exhaust system. So if any1 has a pair of good used ss heat exchangers they want to sell let me know.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Only want to do this once if you know what i mean lol.
I knew I shouldnt of stop at that stop sign
Old 08-10-2002, 01:31 AM
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Ron Meier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Crestline, CA
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Check the ears on the tranny mount CAREFULLY to see if they got cracked. The alloy doesn't like "sudden impact" and will shift really poorly if the a$$ end is scraping on the street.

If you developed leaks as a result of the hit, the drivetrain would have been rattled real good.

Your exhaust conversion will require, HEs, muffler and hanger and possibly right and left warm air guides if you want heat.

How far you go on a teardown depends on the money you have.
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"Inventor - Blue Flame 914 Seat Heater"

"Yellow Rusty Cars Are Faster"
_____________________________
'70 2.5 (I'll never finish it - Somewhere over the rainbow.....,)
'73 2.0 (Just Not The Same)
'74 2.0 (Heartless & Lungless)

Last edited by Ron Meier; 08-11-2002 at 06:35 AM..
Old 08-11-2002, 06:21 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
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Ron,

I have to see what the insurance company is willing to pick up. So far I have 1,800.00 (- $150 deductable) that was allocated to the body. New bumper, tail light lense, bumber shocks, and some emblems, and labor.
Im hoping they will be as generous with repairing the leaks. Hard to say though.
So, worst end case I have 2K to put into the motor and new clutch, do you think that will be enough for a complete reseal of the motor. I cant do the work myself do to the fact that my neck and back is messed up.
What would you suggest? 4K gives you a new rebuild.
Old 08-11-2002, 10:39 AM
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There are others that can answer your question better - the one's that have shops. I do my own work except for machine work.

2K to me would build a whole motor, but........,

Once the engine is down and the fuel infection removed the rest of it is fairly easy - just a lot of sheetmetal screws for the tin. The heads pistons & cylinders can be renewed without splitting the case.

I'm hoping that Brad Roberts (B) or Jake Raby will post on this subject.

To hell with the insurance company - in accidents, the tranny ears take it in the shorts - take a good look at it or have a good 914 knowledgeable person/mechanic inspect them before you settle.
__________________
"Inventor - Blue Flame 914 Seat Heater"

"Yellow Rusty Cars Are Faster"
_____________________________
'70 2.5 (I'll never finish it - Somewhere over the rainbow.....,)
'73 2.0 (Just Not The Same)
'74 2.0 (Heartless & Lungless)
Old 08-11-2002, 02:36 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
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thanks Ron,

I guess I'll talk to a few shops over the course of the next 2 weeks. Maybe I'll email Jake and get his feedback as well.
Like to find out what type of rings, pushrodtube seals, etc.
to use.

Thanks

Tod
Old 08-11-2002, 03:32 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Aircooled Heaven
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2 K will almost buy a longblock from a mass producer with a decent rep....

My engines start at 3500 bucks and your existing engine, most end up about 4K----but thats for a fully dynamically balanced, blueprinted, Dyno tuned/tested/proven 2056 with a thousand bucks worth of heads bolted onto it.....100% complete, just install it and go. Since everything is balanced fully we supply new Clutch, pressure plate and resurface the flywheel..

This engine has more than 2 K in parts.......

Stock 2.0s go for the same amount as the parts are about equal and they take the same amount of time to build.
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Last edited by Jake Raby; 08-11-2002 at 05:31 PM..
Old 08-11-2002, 05:28 PM
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