No ZOOOM when stabbing gas. HELP!

[nutzforporsche]

Hey all,
I'm at a purely stumped position trying to figure out the problem with my car. First knowledge is power and if I don't get you up to speed then I'll be wasting all of your time. My apologies for the book below.

I purchased a 74' 2.0L that sat for get this 9 years outside. The background on this engine and tranny, it was rebuilt and had 3500 miles on it before it was parked. The P.Os little rich kid lost interest in the car after starting college and the car sat. "He bought a souped up rice burner". Aheem...the younger generation.

Anyhoo I sprayed a generous amount of PB blaster in the cyls for safe measure and she fired over after a day of soaking. Allowed the engine to run for half an hour. Checked the cyl pressures and they were all above 122. At this point here is where I felt safe enough to put some money in the engine. Talk about German quality! Try that with a watercooler.

1.\Changed the oil with mobile 1 and new filter. Allowed the engine again to run for over two hours. This was my make or break test.

2.\Replaced all the vac hoses with new.

3.\ Ordered new FP regulator from PP and installed "set at 29lbs"

4. Replaced all F.I rubber and seals on rails, took out injectors and soaked in gas and thoughly cleaned them.

5.\ New sparkys and wires.

6.\ Pulled out empty gas tank and replaced it with a very clean spare I had on hand, five gals of new gas.

7.\ New fuel pump "rebuilt known good unit" and new filter. Checked gas flow, could pump out lake michigan in a hour. Installed and tested again, still good


Here is where things get interesting. I took the dizzy with the optical Crane XR700 unit out of my perfectly running spare 73 1.7L engine and put it in this 2.0. Added the hot .06 coil and reset the timing and dialed it in at 3500. By the way it took a hell of a lot to get it to stay at 3500, but she idles beautifully at just a hair under 1000 rpm. This unit runs great in the 1.7 so I can eliminate the unit having trouble.

If you have ever put in a Crane optical the install is a bit tight inside and I didn't want to redo this inside the 2.0 dizzy. " Bad case of the lazys". Well.....it may idle great but if you increase the throttle at say 2000 or above the engine acts like it has no power? Normally its ZOOM ZOOM with these engines. Mine sounds like a old geazer. The 1.7L F.I engine just rocks with the Crane. Great investment for me.

"I haven't tried / used the old 2.0 dizzy to get the engine running so I haven't tried that". Points were shot anyway. Plus I didn't feel it would be anywhere close to the performance of the Crane.


Troubleshooting / Tinkering:

1.\ I pulled the throttle switch connector off and repeated the process, still no zoom zoom. I loosened the throttle switch and rotated counter and clockwise with cable attached and the idle changes. This is also the same without the cable?

2.\ The ECU responds to idle adjustments from its top adjustment unit, click by click. Engine doesn't run overly rich, if anything it may be a wee bit lean. Sparkys show a light brown and don't smell of fuel.

3.\ Aux air valve needs dimantled and cleaned /repaired, so I just closed off the lines to it. Warms up a little slower, but is ok.

4.\ Deaccel valve not installed, lines plugged off.

5.\ Sprayed around intake tubes and other lines to detect leaks,..nothing found "so far".

6.\ Every once in a while when I start it up I hear a little clacking around near the head. If I turn it off and let it sit for a minute and restart it quits and I won't hear it again for 20 starts after that.

7.\ Performed another cyl head pressure, all cyls still at 122 or better. All well within specs.

8.\ Red engine light stays on after turning off the engine. I suspect a bad / old altenator.

What am I missing guys?
Does a MPS cause this symptom?
Valves need adjusting?
Throttle position switch trashed?
I'm at a loss.
One thing I do know is I wouldn't change to carbs if my life depended on it. Nothing like F.I.

Many Thank You's and much appreciation to all in advance!!!!!!!!!
Steve
Cowlubus, Ohio

[kellzey]

I'd try the throttle position sensor next. Take off your throttle. You can remove the cover off the TPS without removing it from the throttle. A lot of times oil collects underneath the throttle and seaps into the TPS. Clean it with some good plastic-safe degreaser. Check the contacts for wear.

Seems like you've been fairly comprehensive so far.

Obviously you checked the throttle cable?

[red-beard]

Isn't there a "click" test with the TPS? Ignition on, engine off, slowly depress the accellerator pedal and listen for the 20 clicks.

James

[Ron Meier]

Go to the Tech section - read how to set the TPS - get a volt/ohm meter and check it.

PS: If the gen light is staying on after you turn the key off - you've got an electrical problem in that the alt is still seeing power. Ign switch, wiring or short in the alt.

[nutzforporsche]

Wow,
Talk about a outpouring of support! THANK YOU!

I haven't tried the burp test to see if the throttle sensor is making the injectors fire. Great suggestion! That will be next for certain. If it is toast, I'll have to find a known good one on ebay or buy a new one if PP has it.

I'll try cleaning it and then use the tech article to put it back to square one. I'd bet my bottom dollar that it is the throttle sensor, because gee whiz wally I'm out of brain cells on this one. what else could it be? Flux capacitor pushing over 6.2 gigawatts? ha ha

Again Thank you all for the pointers and taking the time to assist!
Steve
73' 2.0L Rayco Bodied Teener
Cowlumbus, Ohio