oil level with external oiling and mods

[TargaT]

Hello, I have a recently rebuilt and modified 2.0 and am wondering if I should still use the standard reference points on the dipstick. Here is the list of mods that may have an effect:
- tuna can sump
- full flow oil pump currently running lines to the front trunk with remote oil filter in anticipation of adding a front cooler

The reason I'm asking is I'm experiencing some oil pressure concerns. As the oil temp heats up my pressure comes down a bit, not a big concern at higher RPM but as I come in off the track my oil light is flickering at about 1500. This isn't the case when the engine is cool. Do I need more oil?

Thanks, Joe

[TargaT]

Also, any recommendations on weight of oil? Engine specs:
- 96mm KB pistons app. 8.5 compression
- webcam 86A
- Dellorto 40s

Thanks, Joe

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The stock dipstick marks should be OK. You can easily run a half-quart over, even in a completely stock motor, if you want.

The desired weight of oil depends more on the bearing clearances used than the cam choice or carbs. They would range somewhere between 30 and 50 most likely for the higher number in the multi-vis rating.

Your oil may be getting hot enough for the light to come on at idle. Do you know how hot it is getting? It is OK for the light to flicker at hot idle, but not completely optimal IMHO. You might get better hot pressure by going with a thicker oil--or you might get cooler oil by going with a thinner one that does not bypass the stock cooler! And that might bring the pressure up.

How is the pressure control piston in its bore? Does it move smoothly? Is the bore chewed up?

Racer Chris over at Tangerine Racing has a kit to replace that piston and a liner for the bore, I think. It should help, if your problem is that the piston is not moving smoothly.

--DD

[John Rogers]

Over the years we found that the size and complexity of the oiling system was about equal to how well it helped an engine live longer BUT inversely to the cost of the oil system. Here are some examples:

- Stock sump with some extra oil to help in corners, not much help for overall engine life.

- Adding a tuna can and longer pick up. A little more oil and reduces starving in corners. Can easily be ripped off in a bump.

- Adding a deep sump. More oil than the tuna can but again easily damaged.

- Stock pump with deep sump, oil cooler, larger oil filter and extra lines. More oil and better cooling.

- Full blown dry sump, external multi stage oil pump, -16 oil lines, front cooler, large external filter and 8 to 10 quart oil tank. As you can guess this is expensive but will make an engine last the longest and if a rocker cover gasket starts to leak or blows you have the best oil supply. This usually also requires a 911 fan setup and such but engine cooling is pretty good.

[porschetub]

Close attention to oil system parts during the engine build goes a long way to helping to start with,clean cooler,good fitting engine sheetmetal ,good oil pump,etc.
Are you running the carbs jetted rich or lean?slightly rich helps to keep temps down.
You could buy the extension adaptor and tee an oil pressue gauge direct into the fitting that was for the oil pressure light,good piece of mind IMO.
Have you tryed changing out the low pressue switch for a new one ...just an idea.

I have found 20/50 Gastrol dino oil great in the T4 motor ,it seems to hold up well when the temps are getting up...not starting an oil brand arguement by the way

Have heard off issues with higher capacity than stock oil pumps,the Melling cast iron one for instance seems to be great for some and not others,(I have never used one) ,people can confuse/ misunderstand what the benefits of higher oil pressure/volume can be on an otherwise stock oil system however.

The modified stock T1 pump seem to be the best replacement due the the lack of new t4 ones.

Hope you get it sorted ,good luck