back in a 2.0 (where to begin)

[Litesonic]

Well, after several years (about 15), I am again a 914 owner.

They say with age comes wisdom... not sure I am a good example of that.

My first 914 (73 2.0) I bought as my first Porsche. It was a joy just to have one. It had quite a few of the issues sorted, but had it's own as well. A snapped clutch cable, spring perch gave way on the engine lid, and the ubiquitous rust. Still it was my first taste of german-based fun.


Fast forward to yesterday, and I find myself in completely different state, in the snow, looking at a 76 2.0 with "issues". I now have the luxury of having a project car... as my Cayenne can shuttle me and the family anywhere we need go. So, I decide to take the chance on this little yellow car. It seems so tiny now, having gotten use to a 996 and the 955, even the 944 in my garage seems to dwarf it.

It's a project for sure.

I need to get new keys cut as the company that repo'ed it from a mechanic had none. It reportedly needs a fuel pump and a battery. As it had sat for a year, I can only assume I have to pull the fuel tank, and somehow clean it, before I put a new pump in.

She has a bunch of surface (and some deeper) rust, but she has her original paint and fuel injection.

All in all, I am excited to dig in and bring her back.


What have I done?

[beatnavy]

Welcome (back)! Where are you located?

Good luck on your project.

[Litesonic]

Thanks,

northern Colorado (Fort Collins) is where we call home now.
Not as many porsche parts floating around out here, but thanks to pelican again, it's only a click away.

[Cairo94507]

Terrific- It is always sad when these cars sit ignored and rust away. Glad you will be bringing it back to life. Good luck.

[The Glademister]

With your previous experience you probably know the most common rust areas. Behind the rockers, under the battery, floor and trunk pans. Add the inner and outer firewall to that list. Pull back the inner pad and insulator for a look there. Then strip the engine compartment insulator (most agree it's not really needed anyway). I'd also take a close look in the fuel tank compartment around the vent holes and down in the valley. If leaves and dirt have collected, there's almost certainly to be rust. I think the most insidious rust area is the inside the sail, behind the striker plates and door handle recesses. There's little crevasses inside that capture dirt and moisture in the seam sealer that's very difficult to clean out.

Good luck and keep us posted!

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

If you're going to try a rolling restoration, start out by replacing the fuel lines, replacing all fluids, and rebuilding the brakes. Leaking fuel lines under high pressure can lead to fire, which you probably don't want. Brakes that have sat for years can easily fail, leading to your car trying to occupy the same space as an immovable object, which you probably also don't want.

If you're not going for a rolling resto, then start tearing stuff apart. Just make sure you take pics of everything, and label everything. Measure reference points that are affected by metal you cut out, and try to maintain those dimensions. (E.g., build door braces to keep the door opening from growing or shrinking; jig up the suspension pickup points so they wind up in the same place if/when you replace any of them.)

--DD

[Litesonic]

Love this forum.

I appreciate all the advice. It will be a rolling resto, at least for now.
I'll research replacing the fuel lines as a first step... fire would be a pretty significant set-back.

I haven't rebuilt brakes before... I have removed/replaced calipers and rotors and flushed fluids, so I will have read up on that too.

It's a pretty original car, but has suffered audio upgrades as well.

thanks for the support. I may start another topic to track the progress.