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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sunny Tucson, AZ
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Another Shifter Question ??
I searched the archive and didn't find an answer to my question.
I just installed a used side shift transmission in my 73 2.0. I replaced the selector seal and shift rod bushing at the transmission. The firewall bushing & pivot are in good condition. I replaced the bushings inside the car a few years ago. The problem I have is in engaging 1st gear. Sometimes when I go to move away from a stop, I am not all the way in 1st gear. I have to pull back with some effort to engage it. Is there an adjustment in the shifter from the front of the car to the back? I have seen lots of posts regarding the adjustment from side to side. I am not having any problem nicking reverse when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Nice to have a 1st & 2nd gear that don't grind now!! Mark 73 2.0 SSSmokin
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Grove City, OH
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There is an adjust point in the back access of the center tunnel that I have heard of. Also, I believe that you can do a minor adjust where the shifter engauges the front of the rod.
HTH, Mike
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AKA: Dr Evil on the 914World forum, need your tranny rebuilt, or want a "How to rebuild your transmission DVD" set? PM me. -74 914 with 74 2.7 CIS -74 VW Bus with modified 3.1 corvair engine and 3.0 CIS fuel injection system. -74 BMW R90 |
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Mark,
I sometimes have the same problem with first gear. I can tell I'm not all the way engaged in the gear because I haven't felt that last little "bump" or "notch" or whatever you want to call it. The shift knob is almost there, but not quite, and I really hate to give it that extra pull to force it into gear (though I still do when I panic). What works for me is to put the selector back into the neutral gate, let my foot off the clutch, then depress the clutch pedal and try for first again. Also, going up into second gear and then back into first is usually a winner, however cumbersome. When this condition goes from "sometimes" to "too dam often", I'll tweek the clutch cable a bit, and that helps as well. You can adjust the front to back position of the selector by loosening the bolt that clamps the bottom of the selector mechanism to the splined shaft, then carefully slide the selector forward or back, depending on where it feels better to you. The spline is long enough that you can really modify where your shifter knob ends up. Be careful not to pull it completely off the splined shaft, so you won't have to reallign from side to side. This is easier to do if you don't have a center console, of course, and it really won't affect the occasional difficulty of getting into first gear. When in first gear in my '75, I can hook my thumb in my jeans pocket. And it makes that fourth gear throw a lot less lame. Ed |
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Quote:
Wasn't sure if it's the nature of the beast or if I have mine out of adjustment. Mark 73 2.0 |
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Did you replace the ball cup bushing?
I had this problem and my ball cup bushing was toast. I also had popping out of 1st gear (since it wasn't all the way in) and that was the final straw that made me figure out what was wrong - almost got rear ended 2-3 times.
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Jeff Keyzer 72 914 w/2056 built by Mark DeBernardi @ Original Customs Megasquirt with MSII upgrade |
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Ball cup bushing was replaced a couple of years ago and is in good shape.
Mark 73 2.0 |
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Mine does the same thing, I also have the same problem sometimes getting into fifth gear. I go back to neutral, try again - no problem.
Over the weekend I tightened my clutch cable a bit and the problem seems a little better. My clutch cable looks like it needs to be replaced (bought a new one from our hosts last week). I was thinking of tightening it just a smidge more to see if that helps, but now I'm thinking maybe that ball cup needs attention.
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As we all know these cars are 25-30 years old and most have a lot of miles. The shift linkage bushings are probably worn, age hardened, and possible damaged or broken. If the bushings on your car have never been replaced I recommend you buy a complete set and replace them all. Be sure to include the bushings for the universal joint in the linkage. On my car these were brittle and cracked, with pieces missing. When I did my bushing replacement I was pleasantly surprised with the improvemnt in shifting. Check these before you start tearing into the tranny.
I recently dropped my engine and tranny. I found that the plastic pivot bushing in the clutch lever arm was cracked and very worn. I also found the steel retaining clip that holds the lever arm onto the pivot ball was cracked and on its way to failure. I wonder if these contributed to the clutch/shifting problems I have experienced. I guess I'll find out when I put it back together. Mike |
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canna change law physics
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Just be careful not to drop the shiftrod out of the clamp. It's quite easy.
For adjusting the "Throw", I usually put the tranny in 2nd gear and then lock it down with my trusty vise grip at the tranny end (You do not want the rod to actually be able to move). Now, loosen the nut holding the shift rod to the gear selector. On a tailshift, this is between the seats! PIA!!! On a sideshift, you should have access from the side under the gear selector. Using the lockout plate as a guide, align the selector from right to left. Let it ride against the lockout plate without pressure. Now move the selector forward until it is where you want it for 2nd gear (ie how far forward you want). Then tighten it up. Remove the visegrip and try it out. Repeat as needed until it's where you want. This will also give you a "slot" for 2nd/3rd gear and make the shift from 1st to 2nd sooooo easy. James
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James The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the engineer adjusts the sails.- William Arthur Ward (1921-1994) Red-beard for President, 2020 |
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All of the bushings have been replaced or inspected.
The universal joint bushings were a little stiff but intact. I oiled them. The firewall bushing is in good shape. The shifter doesn't have alot of play. When ingaged in a gear I can oly move it about 1/2". The throw-out bearing, sliders & pivot cup all have about 4,000 miles on them & look fine. There must be some trick in the shifter adjustment inside the car that I have missed. Mark 73 2.0 |
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Have not tried locking down the shifter w/ Vice Grips. I will give it a try this tonight.
I can spell too. I think it's engaged not ingaged. Mark 73 2.0 |
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canna change law physics
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Vise grips are great, since they isolate the rod from the tranny. It can really help identify where to look for the slop.
James
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James The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the engineer adjusts the sails.- William Arthur Ward (1921-1994) Red-beard for President, 2020 |
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Do you clamp the Vice Grips on inside the side shift cover next to the bushing?
Thx, Mark 73 2.0 |
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I had a similar problem. I was able to correct by adjusting the coupling at the shifter. I tried to identify the center of the 1st to 2nd throw by moving the shift rod under the car by hand. Two man job. I then noted the throw on the shifter by roughly lining it up with the mounting holes and physically moving it back and forth. Once I found the center of both I make marks on each and coupled them together. It seemed to help the shift into 1st. You can simple try and put the shift rod about a 1/4 inch more into the coupler under the shifter. this will give you a more positive engagement. If you over do it you will have problems with reverse second and forth...
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canna change law physics
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Yes, after the bushing.
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James The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the engineer adjusts the sails.- William Arthur Ward (1921-1994) Red-beard for President, 2020 |
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Try tightening your clutch cable a few turns (at the trans) If it is not adjusted properly (too loose) you will have a problem getting into first gear without grinding. I had a worn nylock nut that would "walk" itself loose with road vibrations. I put a matching jamb-nut behind it - problem gone. It sounds like you've covered all the other bases.
Don
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Not sure how far to go. I don't have it set as tight as it was before I changed the transmission. Seems like throw-out bearing is close to contact w/ pressure plate.
Mark 73 2.0 |
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You may not need more than three to five turns. Try a couple and see if it make a difference. You may have an easier fix tham you thought.
How much "free pedal" in the cluthch pedal? If more than an inch, you've got plenty of room to adjust. Don
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Don Kiepert '73 Big Bore '02 GTI 1.8T Race a Porsche - There's more to life than left turns! |
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Please tell me exactly where the vice grips go as I don't want to leave marks on any shaft surface that is going to give me trouble later on.
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So after a couple of 10-minute sessions in the garage & a couple of test drives it's perfect. Well as perfect as a side shift 914 can get.
The problem was that the splined shaft that goes into the shifter was pulled out to far. I had about 3/4" of the spline showing. Now that it's adjusted I have between 3/8" & 1/2" of spline showing. I didn't use the vise grip method. I was just under the car Sunday changing the transmission. Was not very exited about getting back under there and pulling the cover off the side shifter. There is an acess hole right behind the gear shift lever that allows for easy adjusting. Thanks, Mark 73 2.0
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