removing struts : removing top nut at steering knuckle

[Bukowski]

dove into removing struts today (happy spring everyone!)

ran into big confusion. I think I can get the lower nut/bolt off, but not the top. There is about 1 inch of room above the nut. The brake caliper is an obstruction. This is an '87 NA not M030 or any type of suspension like that. I'm using the Harbor Fright impact sockets and combinations with extension bars, plus added standard sockets, etc. The impact driver can reach the hex head of the bolt on the forward side of the knuckle, however, it doesn't budge. Kano Kroil has been applied. I haven't tried using a 3/8" driver with a breaker bar - maybe later.

I can't recall how I got the brake caliper off before. I thought I used a breaker but now it seems the tools I have arent' getting in there - perhaps the car needs to go up a few more inches.

[v2rocket_aka944]

impact driver (1/4" hex drive) will be useless here.
impact WRENCH (1/2" square drive) is the right tool.

3/8" breaker bar is good for M8 bolts and not much more. i have snapped 3/8" square drives on big bolts before.

you need a sturdy 1/2" drive bar for these bad boys.
strut-to-spindle bolts often need a 4ft pipe slipped over the 18" breaker bar handle, beware.

[drkshdw]

Originally Posted by v2rocket_aka944

you need a sturdy 1/2" drive bar for these bad boys.
strut-to-spindle bolts often need a 4ft pipe slipped over the 18" breaker bar handle, beware.

^This. A 1/2" breaker bar with a deep socket (forget extensions as they hog torque) and a 4' or 6' black iron pipe over the breaker bar handle. The longer the handle, the easier to break it loose. If it hasn't been off before (original struts to the car) then beware of the crack when the nut breaks loose. And wear thick leather gloves if you hold onto the end of the pipe because the threads will cut you. Don't ask how I know this or to see the scar on the palm of my hand from when I first did this 15 years ago. But once you break it loose, you can finish removing it with a 3/8" ratchet.

[Bukowski]

Thanks drkshdw, V2

I mistyped - using a Harbor Fright 1/2” impact driver.

Perhaps a better impact wrench will work?

So a plain old Craftsman 1/2” socket, or is there a low-profile socket to use? And Where will the bar go - under the passenger side? Leave the caliper installed?

[djnolan]

I have used a trolley jack under the breaker bar when there isn't room to get a long pipe in there.

[Bukowski]

took another look at this.

if rotation of the hex head of the bolt (i.e. not the nut) is sufficient to break the fastener loose - as suggested by some YouTube videos by Dr. DIY and Juergen (sorry if I got the names wrong) - then it appears to be a game of buying every rotational degree of the breaker bar you can to get it loose, including removing the sway bar, dropping the skid pan, and raising the car.... what if I just wail on it with the impact wrench? shouldn't that do the same thing?

the front left caliper top bolt : how the heck did I get this off before? Using the same breakers and sockets, I figure this requires the handle of any wrench to be pointed up into the wheel well - not enough torque. I recall pointing the breaker bar way out but this won't work on the left because the bolt has to rotate towards the rear... I can't even use the impact wrench because the assembled components are too bulky.

maybe tomorrow something will come to light.

[djnolan]

Try using a jack under the breaker bar, works on the caliper bracket bolts.

Try the double wrench trick on the strut bolts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhkydEzXL0U

Or hit the combo wrench with a hammer to break it free.

It just depends...

[Bukowski]

My current impact wrench is rated at 230 ft. lbs.

Should going to 1050 ft. lbs. solve this problem? That’d be like 200 lb me sitting on a five foot bar.

UPDATE:

because I was ignorant of the types of torque, I did not understand: The advertising on the box said “bolt breakaway” torque. The instructions inside say 350 ft. lbs. maximum torque.

There’s YouTube videos on this.

https://youtu.be/P0sgP6xDVmM

[djnolan]

If you are using a high quality 6-pt socket or wrench I have never not seen one not pop with the appropriate aforementioned methods. Just make sure the socket or wrench is all the way on there so the bolt doesn't round.

The double wrench is the most flexible since it takes very little clearance to get a closed end wrench in there. Also using a 2-lb sledge on a single combo wrench will work if there is room to swing it. Just use the closed end, and hold the wrench in place so it doesn't slip and round the bolt off.

[IdahoDoug]

These days with the proliferation of electric impact drivers, people's expectations are getting too high that they can remove anything. If it resists an impact driver (air or electric) just find a pipe to extend your breaker bar and put some weight into it, versus sitting there with the trigger pulled.

Also, you should try using a penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster (NOT WD40 or normal oils) to help get lube in there to avoid damaging threads.

[DannoXYZ]

https://uedata.amazon.com/dp/B00LV9Y1FE

[Bukowski]

pleased to report some progress here

details to come, but to break the nut/bolt loose (only) I used:

1. Harbor Freight 17" breaker bar slid inside a 1" X 4-foot-long steel pipe (hardware store item). The Harbor Fright item just clears the ID of the pipe - YMMV.

2. extension bar - perhaps 9"? (I had only an Impact grade bar)

3. 17" socket 6-point (standard grade) - about 2" high (details to come later)

I put 1+2+3 on the hex head of the eccentric bolt (the "top" bolt), and no wrenches of any kind on the 19mm lock nut opposite. I applied a good helping of Kroil (but not a total mess). remember, this is the driver side, so loosening means pushing up on the pipe.

The breaker bar inside the pipe allowed a dynamic length, so that, since I was up against a wall (literally - in the garage), I needed to shorten it on the upswing. As I progressed through the arc, I could extend the pipe. The assembly, and using the assembly, clears the dust guard and the socket does not wobble excessively.

turning the pipe :

...."crack!"

...."crack!'

...."crack!"

... after that, it was easier, but oh wow was that was a little scary. It gets more tedious later, but one big thing is out of the way on this....

actually, I can't get the washer off - perhaps after I go back to it it'll come right off...

and one more thing : the eccentric bolt hex head was pointed frontwards, to the front headlight - the nut of the bolt, and the eccentric washer, was pointed towards the brake caliper. I am wondering what determines this orientation - because it appears the bolt flange was damaged and damaged the strut housing from breaking it loose. That is, it was - according to my abilities - impossible to break the nut loose because of the obstruction.

[thomasryan]

you might get another round of ecentrics or at least the washer ( 944 343 175 00 ). if you don't replace the single use lock nuts, mark them so you know if they are loosening up.

the procedure is to remove the nut with the bolt fixed. you are working against the struts adhesion to the spindle/knuckle when turning the bolt to loosen. same when you are setting caster...hold the bolt, tighten the nut.

[Bukowski]

I got the strut out!

I don't understand why the bolt was oriented so the nut was pointing into the small space near the brake caliper, with the eccentric bolt hex head pointed into the open area towards the front of the car.

It seems that by rotating the eccentric bolt, the bolt flange damaged the strut housing and also the eccentric washer - the washer had threads cut in it, perhaps from just now - though it looks old. I eventually got it out by sort of pushing it over each thread very tediously, with Kroil, all around.

The bottom bolt was easier - I used the impact wrench on the brake caliper side, countering with a standard grade 17 mm socket setup, after initially breaking it loose with the pipe as previously described.

I had to use the spring compressor set to get a few more mm to clear the edge of the control arm, then, with simple force (punch, engineer's hammer), got it free, and simple twisting/pushing to point the strut end in between the tie rod and the control arm, it was easy. not the nightmare I had expected.

as for the nut and bolt - can that go on in either direction? I think it'd be better to have the nut on the side opposite the caliper, but not sure of the consequences there.

I hope to add more detail later, so stay tuned.

[Bukowski]

pics showing the top bolt on steering knuckle, drivers side (left hand side) - before and after removal.