I am now a WET head............. 944 S2

Bulldog9 · 03:59 PM

Long time Air Cooled Porsche Owner/Lover, but have added a 1989 944S2 (Wethead) to the paddock. I have had a 912E for 15 years or so, and did a total restore.

I'm getting ready to retire, and wanted a project. I did NOT want to do any body and limited interior (cosmetic) work, but hoped to find a car that needed TLC. As fate would have it, a conversation at my moms 80th birthday party ended tin my acquisition of a 1989 S2.

Original owner who happened to be 90, 44K miles, and has been sitting the last 10 years. He loved the car, bought it as his retirement car (as am I). Car is pristine, I drove 900 miles with a trailer to buy sight unseen. Was far better than I expected. Never thought I'd be in a 944, but the price was RIGHT. The PO was really not a wrench, and did minimal maintenance, but with so low miles needed very little. Heck, he never even did the timing belts. He has had tons of people hounding him to buy it, but he didn't want to sell until he found the right buyer. Super happy I was the guy, and I plan to get it up and running and keep it 100% original.

Option Codes:
220 LSD Limited Slip Differential
454 Automatic speed control
533 Alarm
573 Air conditioner
593 ABS Antilock Brake System (Bosch)
650 Detachable roof panel
990 Cloth front seats with leatherette

The Good:
1. Pulled the plugs and they were all the proper color and came out perfectly.
2. I pulled the timing cover and the belts are all in place and look great. They ARE the original belts. 44K miles and 34 years, so they WILL be changed with all the idlers and new Laso Water Pump. Will also replace the main coolant hoses, but it looks like a couple are brand new.
3. AC was updated to R134 in 2007, and has new condenser. No idea if it works till I try to start it.
4.***!!!! Dug around in the rear side wells and FOUND........... A. Sunroof Bag, B. Original and never used tool kit C. OEM Porsche Bra.... D. Haynes Manual.
5. Everything works, but the power window switches are wonky, and the power mirror 'down' does not work.
6. The interior is PRISTINE.......... Carpet, seats, trim all looks NEW........... Near perfect condition. Back seat was NEVER used, passenger rarely, and the drivers seat shows NO wear. Always garaged. Is like a time capsule.

There is some bad........
1. Clutch Slave/Master is dead - replacing both with new lines.
2. Fuel Pump is Fubar, does not run, and is leaking fuel. Going to replace the fuel sock, tank to pump line, pump, check valve and filter.
3. Tach is totally dead. No bounce, nothing.
4. The TB may need to be replaced, looks like one of the bleeder screw bosses has corroded and broke off (pic)
4. Clock is Fubar ;-(
Overall, I'm super happy with the car, as is the PO who LOVED the car and wanted it to go to the right person. I WISH he had the original window sticker, but the car is amazing. can't wait to get it up and running and shake out the wrinkles of which I am sure there will be many.

I'm not a huge fan of the stock rims, and the shocks are spent, but those will come in time.

BEST part? I have Chocolate and Vanilla P cars

Here is my 1976 912E that I did a full ground up restomod

Here is the 944 with it's prior owner and then on the trailer

It is in immaculate condition, just needs (at this point) a mechanical going over.

Shifter · 09-05-2023, 06:20 AM

Nice car! S2's are great

Stop cranking that engine. Replace the belts before you touch that ignition again. When those belts break, you will be doing head work. Not if, but when.

You may also want to inspect the chain tensioner guides.

I can't say I really ever saw much Tach bounce on my S2 at startup.

Good luck, these cars are worth the effort!

Monkey Wrench · Monkey Wrench's Garage

Its a good sign when you can just see and read the buyer as he's thinking ....OK lets get going before he changes his mind ;-)

Bulldog9 · 09-05-2023, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shifter

Nice car! S2's are great

Stop cranking that engine. Replace the belts before you touch that ignition again. When those belts break, you will be doing head work. Not if, but when.

You may also want to inspect the chain tensioner guides.

I can't say I really ever saw much Tach bounce on my S2 at startup.

Good luck, these cars are worth the effort!

Yup, I get it, and have not cranked the motor. I even asked the PO NOT to try to start it for this reason. I am also going to replace the cam chain guides top and bottom as part of the restore.

The PO told me the Tach had stopped working when he last drove it (10 years ago). I've done some reading on the issue and read that with ignition on the tach will generally bounce.

Monkey Wrench · Monkey Wrench's Garage

tach bounce during cranking is normal. it means the ICU is reading the timing sensor ( s) . My volvo does it too. lack of tach bounce can mean the ICU isn't powered on , but you will find that if it is the case.

you are on the right track. Nice car. If not in a big rush I;d just see the condition and then order if it needs timing chain guides. you might have some oil seals you can change quite easily with that stuff removed. maybe waterpump? I think if you do the belts then you an invest more in due time. tires might look good but be old and degrading..
on mine the fuel hose between the tank and filter rotted and it dumped its gas, Yours is an S2 so a bit newer and different but I'd check that hose out, You dont want that to happen in your garage. a full tank of fuel leaking out unexpectedly can spoil your entire day.

I read back and see that's all on your to do list.

Bulldog9 · 09-27-2023, 09:08 AM

Slowly gathering all my parts.

About the only thing left for the engine/mechanical refresh is the new fuel lines in the engine bay and vacuum lines.

Now I know that conventional thought says to change the engine bay fuel lines, but if I'm going to do it I'm going to do all the lines with new pressure regulator and dampener.

As these are easily accessed no matter where I am in the project I'm thinking of keeping them all in place for my initial start and shake down.

The car only has 44k miles was lightly used and stored most of its life. The engine bay fuel lines in particular look great with no issues visually.

Because I'm trying to put all OEM or Porsche parts in I'm looking at 5 to $700 minimum to change all the fuel lines in the engine bay.

I've inspected most of the vacuum lines and they too look great but I think I'm going to just go for it and replace them.

Monkey Wrench · Monkey Wrench's Garage

mine isnt' an S2, so yours is different but I noted insane prices on a new fuel dampener for my model, the fuel pressure regulator was not so bad..

I have not had one apart but I figure the fuel dampener is probably like a cylinder with a spring behind it, so it can absorb "shocks" in the system. I decided well maybe they dont fail that often and since it was around a thousand, I'm skipping that for now.

I built a little rig and did a thread on cleaning your own fuel lnectors, basiclly they can be flushed and if you try to start it with tar- like goo in the tank there is a small screen where the fuel enters the injectors. it might plug.. if there is bad fuel in the lines and past the filter..

You can change the screens , I just back-flushed some volvo ones. I can also see if the spray pattern looks abnormal and if they fail to open or close properly.. ill do that and replace injectors if needed but not necessarily automatically
i found somewhere local I cna get the blue anodized fittings, not OEM but cheaper that way I think..

If you do a "shout out post" there is a guy that reads this forum that has the means to make up closer to OEM fuel lines for you..
I deal with a hydraulic place and they crimp my hydraulic lines when I need those but didnt want o touch fuel lines. they are probably metric.

some go over the manifold so people like to re- route them a little.. so for that you might need a bit of extra length.

Bulldog9 · 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monkey Wrench

mine isnt' an S2, so yours is different but I noted insane prices on a new fuel dampener for my model, the fuel pressure regulator was not so bad..

I have not had one apart but I figure the fuel dampener is probably like a cylinder with a spring behind it, so it can absorb "shocks" in the system. I decided well maybe they dont fail that often and since it was around a thousand, I'm skipping that for now.

I built a little rig and did a thread on cleaning your own fuel lnectors, basiclly they can be flushed and if you try to start it with tar- like goo in the tank there is a small screen where the fuel enters the injectors. it might plug.. if there is bad fuel in the lines and past the filter..

You can change the screens , I just back-flushed some volvo ones. I can also see if the spray pattern looks abnormal and if they fail to open or close properly.. ill do that and replace injectors if needed but not necessarily automatically
i found somewhere local I cna get the blue anodized fittings, not OEM but cheaper that way I think..

If you do a "shout out post" there is a guy that reads this forum that has the means to make up closer to OEM fuel lines for you..
I deal with a hydraulic place and they crimp my hydraulic lines when I need those but didnt want o touch fuel lines. they are probably metric.

some go over the manifold so people like to re- route them a little.. so for that you might need a bit of extra length.

Thanks.

Fortunately the tank to filter line failed, so the tank is empty. I pulled the tank strainer screen fearing a clogged up goop but it was very clean and can easily be reused but I am going to replace it.

My plan is to clean out the little bit of grit in the tank, install new strainer, all lines, new pump and filter and put 5 gallons of fuel in the tank with a bottle of seafoam.

Then I plan to disconnect the fuel lines and jump the relay to pump any old gas out of the lines. Hopefully will clean out most of the gunk if any. The pump was also very clean. So far only the cooling system is funky. All the other fluids look great but will be changed.

I'm about 3 months from having to worry about the engine fuel lines, by then the cost will not seem so steep (have already bought all new belts, camchainpads, water pump, clutch slave and master with lines, all new hoses, hardware and idlers, rear fuel lines filter and pump, window switches, and a host of other things to include a new Porsche throttle body.

Hopefully I'll just change the engine bay lines, and get away with the original pressure regulator and dampener. The lines in the engine bay look good for now, and look new. Also, the S2 routes them farther back against the firewall and farther from the manifold. I will likely eventually pull all the injectors and clean and replace the o rings. I'm not going to do all the seals as the motor is totally dry and unless I see something when I have it all apart for the water pump will hold off on those.

Phase 1 is to install all the parts I have, get it started and start sorting.

My goal is to have it ready to go for next summer.

Bulldog9 · 10-05-2023, 08:13 PM

Flushed out the block, radiator and heater core, not as bad as I thought. Let the hose spray and run till clear, did several times. Then when done, used my leaf blower to blow as much moisture and water out as possible. Will likely do one more time before I tear the rest down for water pump change. I realized today I missed the Throttle body coolant line. I'm replacing the Throttle body.

Pics??? I always forget. Was just a watery mess...... lol.

Monkey Wrench · Monkey Wrench's Garage

After flushing the rad, remember when you do start it, that the head or heater core circuit may be still full of air and that can cause it to overheat. There is probably a Clark's garage procedure to burp it.. Prestone makes those garden hose connectors for flushing , but then you have to slice open a water line to install them. maybe not such a bad idea.. you'll find other threads on solving that issue. Just dont hop in and go too far at first without making sure it's actually cooling.

others can correct me but I think there is an oil seal behind the cam belt and one for the balancer shaft. they are probably each worth 10 bucks and if you want to change them at a later date you'll probably be pulling off the belts tensioner etc all again.

If they have a number you can usually get them from a bearing supplier and you can bet Porsche doesn't make them anyway. If someone else has all that apart they might be able to send you a picture or perhaps have the seal number written down. waterpump is probably a bit more money.

likely if they fail it'll weep a bit of oil in under the covers, my fear is that any lost oil inside the belt area could go unnoticed and may degrade the rubber belt and a broken belt may cause an valve /piston crash. You might get the opinion from other S2 lovers with more experience, to see if my reasoning holds water, or not.

Bulldog9 · 10-28-2023, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monkey Wrench

After flushing the rad, remember when you do start it, that the head or heater core circuit may be still full of air and that can cause it to overheat. There is probably a Clark's garage procedure to burp it.. Prestone makes those garden hose connectors for flushing , but then you have to slice open a water line to install them. maybe not such a bad idea.. you'll find other threads on solving that issue. Just dont hop in and go too far at first without making sure it's actually cooling.

others can correct me but I think there is an oil seal behind the cam belt and one for the balancer shaft. they are probably each worth 10 bucks and if you want to change them at a later date you'll probably be pulling off the belts tensioner etc all again.

If they have a number you can usually get them from a bearing supplier and you can bet Porsche doesn't make them anyway. If someone else has all that apart they might be able to send you a picture or perhaps have the seal number written down. waterpump is probably a bit more money.

likely if they fail it'll weep a bit of oil in under the covers, my fear is that any lost oil inside the belt area could go unnoticed and may degrade the rubber belt and a broken belt may cause an valve /piston crash. You might get the opinion from other S2 lovers with more experience, to see if my reasoning holds water, or not.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm debating doing all the front seals while it is a part.

Bulldog9 · 01:32 PM

I've been nitting away at the car, mostly disassembly and little things like power window switches, hood and hatch struts, etc. Waiting on the new clock to arrive and the interior will be 100%. I was hoping the issue with windows was the switches and that paid off.

Today I tackled the new fuel pump and lines. Did all new from the in tank strainer, to vehicle hard lines. All Porsche parts except the pump. I left all the lines connected and removed at the hard line. I soaked everything with AeroKroil for good measure, but was likely unnecessary. I also dumped a gallon of fuel in the tank to wash out as much grit and crap from the tank before installing the new screen. Parts went back in without issue.

Out with the Old

New parts laid out

New parts installed

w

Also pulled the nose piece to change the air filter. My My what an interesting process, but is a large area and has easy access to cool air. The air filter didn't look too bad.

I am now moving forward and next up is the clutch slave and master. Dummy me forgot to get brake fluid. I'm going to start by trying a bleed, and also bleed the brakes while I am at it. I've had a motive pressure bleeder for years, that thing is money!

Starter came out with no issues and little corrosion. The PO probably never drove it in the rain, there is virtually no corrosion on anything.

Bulldog9 · 06:17 AM

Clutch Master, Slave and line replaced, and fully bled the brake system.

Man, this job sucked........ Is doable, but getting the master out and in was a royal PITA. 3 hours start to finish including bleeding. The space between the front wheel well, firewall and brake booster is so small, and the AC line, and large wiring harnesses that traverse the area all conspire to make removing, the MC, separating the line, and reinstalling a challenge, especially when you have large hands.

Learning points.

1. You do NOT need to remove the plastic cover under the dash and near the pedals. If you depressurize the clutch circuit, and push the pedal to the floor it gives access to the clip and washer. Pull them off, then return the clutch pedal to the 'up' position and you can slip the MC pushrod off the stud. Reverse process on reassembly.

2. Install the feed line onto the new Master before installing, much easier than trying to get your hands in there to slide it on and tighten clamp after it is installed.

3. Hand tighten the threaded line connections to the master and slave cyls before hard mounting to firewall and bellhousing. Much easier to thread into place, then final tightening of the lines once mounted.

4. Remove the pushrod from the MC to make installation of MC into the car easier. Is a bit of a pain to slide through the rubber piece and get reseated on the groove in the shaft, but makes sliding it all into place on the firewall much easier.

5. The mounting holes in the FTE MC are too close together, and required using a hammer and punch to get it to slide over the mounting studs. A few minutes with a round file to remove about 1mm of the outer side of the mounting holes on the new MC would have made fitting easier. I was too far down the road and had the line connected when I discovered this, so I maneuvered the MC into place and got it started on one stud, then 'persuaded' it into place with a long/thick brass punch and hammer. Bolts are 13mm. I have a set of 1/4 drive 'swivel' sockets and it worked perfectly.

6. When using a pressure bleeder (highly recommended, or a vacuum bleeder) let the pressure bleeder push fluid through the MC and Slave, and pump the clutch pedal while it flows. Once the fluid is running without air bubbles, tighten bleeder, pump the pedal several times, and open bleeder again to push all the air out. I did this 3X and all was well. Leave it all connected to bleed the brakes while at it.

7. Remove the Drivers seat to make accessing the clutch pedal assembly easier. Probably wouldn't have needed to do this if I was 35, but at 60...... Also let me do a full vacuum of the carpet.

By using Porsche and OEM parts, I am hoping to never do this again.

For whatever reason, the MOTIV power bleeder would not reliably push brake fluid through the calipers. I had to pump the pedal. Not a big deal as the MOTIV bleeder kept fresh fluid flowing into the MC, but I was surprised. I should have replaced the flex brake lines before doing this, but brakes are down the road on this project. The pads and rotors look fine, as do the calipers/pistons/dust boots. The lines look new, but will be done in phase 2 with the Suspension. Phase 1 is to get it running well and mechanically functional.

Bulldog9 · 06:21 AM

I replaced the digital clock and door speakers, and prior replaced the power window switches and visor clips with OEM Porsche. The interior is now 100% complete and perfect other than replacing the microswitch for the rear hatch. Everything has been tested, though I am a bit nervous about the very brief puff of smoke from the temperature control unit. The fan works, as does the AC switch (powering on coolant fan) but Imagine I need engine vacuum to test the recirc and directional controls, and we will see about heat, etc once it is up and running.

Digital Clock is a rebuilt from 944 online (with $100 core charge), and the Speakers are Infinity Reference 4x6. Easy plug and play, but you have to remove the plastic trim from the new speaker. Very easy as it was just glued on.

First time the digital clock has worked in 20 years!

Sound from speakers is good, but not great. There are plastic spacers behind the speaker mount and between it and the door. These speakers fit fine despite the larger magnet, but I could have easily added washers to give a bit more space.

I have the Continental Head unit with Bluetooth I will install eventually, and if the car is a keeper may do more for audio.

I am taking these little cosmetic side roads to change up the work. Helps me to stay motivated.

dsfnctn · 12-17-2023, 07:12 AM

Great write up and good plan to get the car running. I see you are from the Northwest.
I live in Sequim, WA . We race the 944’s as well. We have a good 944 community around Seattle

Bulldog9 · 12-17-2023, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsfnctn

Great write up and good plan to get the car running. I see you are from the Northwest.
I live in Sequim, WA . We race the 944’s as well. We have a good 944 community around Seattle

I need to update that. I'm in the Army, so always on the move. I was at JBLM 2015-2017, and have lived in 4 states since then. Currently in Kentucky, and will retire next year, and end up in Northern Virginia.

I LOVED the Seattle Car and Motorcycle Scene. I had a shop, I think "Trueline???" do the full alignment and corner balance on my 912 when I finished the restoration. They did a great job.

Bulldog9 · 05:14 PM

Making Progress.... Today I installed:

New Laso Waterpump/gasket and thermostat with updated gaskets and washer.
Fuel Sending unit
New Stabilus Rear Hatch Struts
New OEM Porsche Throttle Body, o-rings, and new 6mm bolts
New DME temperature sensor (precaution),
Replaced AC fan knob I buggered up when removing (unnecessary)

I also Replaced rear timing belt cover, and re-installed balance belt cogs, Dual plug high output USB power plug in cig lighter, and vacuum elbows on fuel damper and heater control valve. Everything went very well!

A few surprises along the way, one was what is CLEARLY not the original waterpump.

Bulldog9 · 12-28-2023, 05:19 PM

For whatever reason, several PICS did not attach on the last message. Here is the new Throttle body and water pump in place.

Bulldog9 · 12-29-2023, 03:12 PM

Finished the timing and balance belts today. Tomorrow is the cam chain tensioner pads, then final torque of everything.

Looking at the attached pic, I think I have to re-align the lower balance shaft. I aligned the key with the O on both cogs, but seems that is only the case on the upper, the lower uses the other keyway...... grrrrrr.

One learning point, at least on the S2 is to install and torque the lower timing belt idler (below the tensioner spring) BEFORE installing the accessory belt pulley.

Bulldog9 · 01-03-2024, 06:08 AM

Install of the tensioner, refinish of the cam cover and all the belts/hoses/plugs/wires installed. Also ran the fuel pump to flush the old fuel out of the lines, then connected the lines and pressure tested. Also filled and pressure tested the cooling system. No leaks!

*Helpful note/learning point. I seem to remember seeing something about jumping the fuel pump by connecting 87 and 87b to just run the pump, and adding 30 to run the car. That is not the case. To run the fuel pump without even needing to turn the key on, you need to jump 30 and 87b. Of course it took me a while to figure this out, and thinking something was wrong, or the fuel pump was bad, I dropped the pump cover, checked all connections, and ran a jumper wire to the battery. Once I confirmed the pump was good, it was a matter of figuring out why it wasn't getting power when jumped. I confirmed the fuse was good, then pulled a schematic and realized that 30 was where the power was, and that 87b was the lead to the pump. So a bit of drama, but I reconfirmed all the connections.

Now just need to mount the starter, put the tires back on, take of jack stands and see if it starts.