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i feel like all these problems are happing at the same time
I have just aquired two more problems with my car.
1) If I put my car in gear while stopped and apply the brake, while I'm taking my foot off the clutch the back end of the car sinks about a half an inch, and then rises again when I reapply the clutch pedal. My whole back end feels really loose while driving and was wondering were to start with this. 2) My car is idling funky. When I put it in nuetral the RPMs sink to about 900(this always happend) but instead of going to 1100 or so, they shoot up to about 1200-1250, then drop back to 900. This whole process just keeps repeating itself. I ended up having to controls by riding the clutch pedal while stopped which is when I discovered problem #1. Help me guys...
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1974 914 1.8 Sold... 1984 944 my baby...more of a pain in the @$$ than takin' it with a cucumber, but I still love it. THE CAR YOU PERVS!!!!!!!!!!!! 1990 Nissan 240sx fastback aka Japanese 944 |
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1) My automatic does this same thing when i put it in drive, and as far as I remember, so did the 5 speed i had. I think its just because of the rear mounted transmission though i might be wrong
2) could be an air leak, or it might even be air in the brake lines (clutch line is shared) I dont know how its done on the 944, but whatever controls the idle might have gone bad. someone with a little more experiance in how it idles can fill you in
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Have you checked your rear shocks?
"loading up" the rear end, will cause the rear of the car to sink, if you try to do a hard launch from a stop, the rear end will squat noticably. If it does this too easily, AND it feels loose, it could be your shocks are gone. For problem two, i have a bunch of ideas, but i'm not really sure. I'd have you running in circles chasing down all sorts of things. I'm sure somebody else will have a better idea.
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Mike '92 968 '01 VW Jetta TDi |
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Idle stabilization valve is one. It is located under the intake manifold.
900-950 is normal idle RPM Check for vacuum leaks Get new shocks and check the rear bushings for wear/out of round.
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yea.. what 924Sman said.. 900 is normal at operating temp (my car idles at 1100 now, in the dead of winter at a cold start, once warm, that drops to 900). Vaccum leaks and the idle stabilizer will affect this. Read up on the idle shudder on early '944s. I'm not sure if this is the symptom that the Wilk chip fixes on early cars, Im more familiar w/ late models.
Seabolt - regarding the "drop" on yer auto tranny, I have the same thing. My uncle said it was the gears engaging. Although its hard to tell with his romanian accent. Plus he was drunk.
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''87 944na 85k C02 / M158 / M418 / M425 / M431 / M454 / M533 / M650 / M946 '94 Oldsmobile 88 Royale (winter beater) Its not what you drive, its what drives you. |
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Well shoot as far as the rear end dipping just consider it an immense amount of torque! That is my take and sticking to it!
![]() Something you wont see on a NA so take it as power while you can! ![]()
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PCA " I've been everywhere, done everything......just can't remember any of it!" ![]() Last edited by 924Sman; 03-02-2005 at 05:10 PM.. |
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How do I check to see if my rear shocks are shot or not?
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1974 914 1.8 Sold... 1984 944 my baby...more of a pain in the @$$ than takin' it with a cucumber, but I still love it. THE CAR YOU PERVS!!!!!!!!!!!! 1990 Nissan 240sx fastback aka Japanese 944 |
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If the back end of your car bounces around like a pogo stick, they're shot.
But seriously, here's a few ways to tell: Are either of them oily? does fluid appear to be leaking from the seal where the rod goes into the cylinder? That's a sure sign they're shot. Push up and down on your rear bumper, and get the car "bouncing". Stop pushing, and it should come to a stop almost immediately. Conventional wisdom says cars should not make more than 1 complete up and down "cycle", otherwise your shocks are shot. This applies to most cars, but Porsche shocks are much stiffer than most cars, and your car should stop bouncing, and settle back to the neutral position almost immediately, with VERY little rebound. The other way to tell, is when you're driving around a moderately hard corner, and you hit a small bump, does the ass end (or even the whole car) jump toward the outside? That's an indication that your shocks have inadequate damping (worn out). If you want to unbolt your rear shocks from the car, take them out, and try to compress and extend them by hand. They should move very slowly with manual pressure. If they move in and out easily, they're gone.
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